So there are two different stick you’re talking about. I didn’t realize that. For the modded TE, it sounds like the only problem is the button configuration with SF4; that’s something outside of my control, but it should be fixable by using the button config setup. There may be others here who’ve done it; please speak up if you have and if there are any tricks, but there shouldn’t be any problems setting the button configuration in SF4.
For the custom, there’s a whole crapton of stuff going on there, and I don’t think there is anything I can do to help. I have a general idea of what the optocoupler board is doing, but I definitely dont know the details. The only suggestion I can make would be to separate out the cthulhu and try it on its own on the PC without the additional wiring. If you can get it to fail when nothing else is hooked up to the cthulhu, then it’ll be a lot easier to identify what is going on and get you fixed up if there is a problem with the cthulhu. If you can’t get it to fail on its own, then its its a wiring problem or a problem with god only knows what with the other pcbs, and those problems aren’t supported.
Short answer: No.
The cthulhu’s are only supported in a dual mod in a madcatz 360 fightstick.
THe cthulhu’s can be made to work in a dual mod with just about any common ground pcb, but if you can’t get it to work on your own, I wont be of any help.
The pcb in a HRAP EX (and the DOA4/EX2 sticks) are not common ground. They can be made to work, but its never worth it. It will always be easier and cheaper to hunt down a common ground madcatz pad to use instead.
I recently made a stick with a MC Cthulhu and I ran into a problem. One of the main reasons I opted for the MC is because I wanted it for TvC:UAS. To make sure everything was working properly I tested it with Brawl, which I don’t play.
It seems like when I press a direction on the stick, it activates both the direction I pressed AND the corresponding D-Pad direction, which brawl assigns things like taunts. So basically every time I hold a direction I get a taunt, and THEN I start moving in the direction I’m holding. Brawl also doesn’t allow you to remove the D-Pad functions. So:
Is this to be expected?
Can I fix it?
Is this a problem for TvC?
If TvC works then it’s all good, I couldn’t care less about Brawl.
Yes its expected, when its set for normal mode
There’s nothing to fix.
Not a problem for TvC.
For Smash Bros mode, you have to hold down a two button combination when plugging in; Jab+Short, Strong+Forward, or Fierce+Roundhouse; two of those are two different smash modes (easy and advanced). I forget what the third is if anything, and dont recall which is which. I’ll add a note about smash to the faq’s when I can
So when using the newer 4716 with the ChImp, there’s no need for a diode?
I’m wrapping up some PCB hacks and just wanted to confirm something – when dual modding the MC/regular Cthulhu with a MadCatz 4716 using the trigger hack with inverter, do I need diodes on the signal lines? I know you need the diodes if you’re just using 10k resistors with the old 4716 and classic arcade stick.
Also, which diode do you recommend between 1N4001-1N4007?
The Chimp feature that does the trigger inversion should be being tested by a few people, so I look forward to hearing how it went from them. There’s another feature that hasn’t been mentioned yet that I’d like confirmation that it works. In case the stick doesn’t have a dedicated Guide/Home button, the Chimp will emulate it for both PS3 and 360 using start+select. So, If anyone reading this has an installed chimp, please try this out and let me know how it went. This can be done whether or not there is a dedicated guide/home button.
Plug the stick into a PC, and check the control panel. As long as you’ve never pressed guide/home since plugging it in, start+select should also turn on button 13 in the control panel applet.
Do the same thing on a 360; plug it in, but dont touch the guide/home button. once its plugged in, press start and select to see if it brings up the dashboard.
If someone could let me know if that all works, I’d appreciate it.
This is such an awesome feature I’m glad you were able to get it in. One question (and I might not know enough about how it works, so maybe it’s obvious). What would the effect be if I were to wire up a 360 pad that didn’t require the triggers inverted? Is there an alternate spot to wire triggers, or can it be disabled?
Would also like to know if this can be disabled like the standard cthulhu.
I use my cthulhu stick for a mame pc as well. So I have it set up to read select+start to go into the mame menu, and I have the guide button go into test mode. If it was always active I would have to re-assign some buttons.
It’s really easy to fix, just wondering, because there’s a chance some other people may do the same.
If you need inversion, you connect the 360 triggers to 3KINV and 4KINV. If you dont need inversion, you connect the 360 triggers to 3K and 4K.
The start+select=guide gets disabled as soon as you press the dedicated guide/home button.There is no way to disabled it in hardware for reasons that’d take forever to explain
Cool, having an option on the inversion is much more important obviously. I can just change the assignments on my keymapper to make something else pull up the mame menu, so I was just curious about that.
I recently got my first stick built with the MC Cthulhu using the RJ45 mod. It works flawlessly on the PC and GC, but for some reason I’m having a small issue with the PS2. Upon start up of a game, the console doesn’t seem to recognize my stick unless I unplug it and plug it in or plug it in after starting it up with a dualshock controller. I’m guessing that either this is a software issue with my PS2 version and the board or more likely a bad wire in my RJ45 mod (but I would have no idea which). It’s not a terrible hassle, but it would be nice if it would just work without having to unplug/replug.
Anyone got any ideas?
And Toodles, thanks for making such an awesome and easy to use piece of hardware.
Niether, it’s a bug in the PS2 support on the MC Cthulhu. I’m aware of the problem and working as best I can on finding and fixing it in a new firmware update, but it hasnt happened yet. I just have to ask for you to be patient and keep an eye on this thread for firmware updates.
Ah, that’s a relief to know my wiring is good. Like I said before, it’s not a huge issue since it works perfectly fine after it finally gets recognized and it works flawlessly on other systems.
Alright, for the more adventurous of you, I have a limited Chimp beta batch ready to go out.
I need everyone to be aware that there isn’t a welcome sheet for them yet, or Instructable, or anything else. If you havent done a dual mod using a cthulhu and Imp before, this is NOT FOR YOU! It’ll be difficult. If you have to ask which way a chip goes into the board, I will laugh at you. It’s a beta so it may not work right. It may cause your consoles to explode, your wife to leave, and your cat to eat paint chips and go stupid. There are no promises, no warranty, no guarantees, nothing.
I have 15 Chimp kits available for those who want them, $30 each, limit 2 per person. They are unassembled kits, and do not include USB jack or screw terminals; those are available at the usual price if you’d like for me to throw them in ($3 for USB, $8 for screw terminals). Normal $6 shipping for US priority postage.
If you want one or two, just order like normal; Send a paypal for the total to marcus@marcuspost.com, and describe in the notes what you’d like to order.
I’m opening the shop back up, but between boxes and school, I still have to ask for about 3 business days between order is placed and its shipped.
My stick has a Cthulu board in it (ps2+ps3) compatible. I’m pretty happy with it although for a month it started pausing on it’s own when playing 3s on ps2. Hasn’t done it sense. Absolutely never any problems on the ps3.