Doesn’t the pic18f4550 that you use for the UPCB have usb support? Are you going to add auto detection to that?
If the USB jack is installed to the end of the ChImp and a 360 PCB is wired up to the unlabelled holes (including D+, D-, Ground and VCC), will the USB jack be the only cable necessary? Am I understanding this correctly?
I’m just thinking about my Cthulhu where I had a USB cable plugged into the jack and then cut both USB cables (from the cthulhu and from the 360 pcb) to wire up the switch/IMP.
If I triple modded the chImp, a 360 controller, and a psx pcb, would that cause problems with the autodetection?
Yup
That’s not really the best way to do it with a cthulhu. Just solder wires to the G, V, D, and E columns instead.
It shouldn’t.
its nov, chimp plox ^____^
heh, but really, do you have an estimated release date for it?
Hey toodles, are there alternate points for D+ and D- on the Ctulhu? They are the only points that are making me want to desolder the USB jack, since I can already access GRD and +5V on a few points.
i’ve been using the chimp in a vshg dualed to a madcatz retro this past week and have had no problems. everything about it so far has been solid like a normal cthulhu and auto detection works as described. i’ve tested with pretty much every fighting game for both systems and no problems to report.
that’s on my list of things to test but it will probably be the last thing i do when i stick this thing in something permanent. it shouldn’t affect the auto detection because it has it’s own wire coming out of it. pretty much like doing any other psx -> whatever pcb dual mod with multiple cords.
also gonna try a newer 4716 madcatz pcb so i can mess with the 3k/4k invert. i’m guessing it’s just adding 1 resistor between the high and wiper for each trigger like the older 4716 to make it on/off and the chimp should just flip the inputs to the proper orientation. i’m guessing you may need a diode so the resistor on the 360 pcb doesn’t affect the chimp like dual modding any other 360 pad w/triggers to cthulhu.
i haven’t messed with the unlabeled holes yet since i’m saving those for use of the invert inputs but i noticed “a” and “k” are pretty close to the screw mount holes. pretty much my only gripe at the moment but its not that big a deal for me.
anyways, so far so good.
I just got my second ‘it works’ from a beta tester, and Im not unpacked yet. My plan at the moment is to get unpacked, and have an open beta. No, no ETA.
Answered in the FAQs in the first post.
If it works like I think it should, then no, no other parts needed. So on the 4716, try to remove the trigger pots, you’ll end up tearing them off anyways, and then connect the invert signals to the test point for the triggers.
I agree, and that’s one thing that will be fixed.
Thanks for that. Anyway, for a 360 TE dual mod with a NON-MC Ctulhu, I can just do this, right?
Column D for the D- line
Column E for the D+ line
Column G for ground
Column V for +5V
On any row, and all coming from the Imp. It looks pretty obvious, but what’s confusing me is the conflicting information from other threads. In Bomberman’s dualmod thread, he says:
What’s up with that?
Yes. Just make sure the VCC coming from the Imp goes ONLY the V column; the power to the 360 board should come from the cthulhu’s VCC screw terminal or unlabelled hole.
When that was written, the PS3 Cthulhus didn’t have any diodes on them, and the USB 5v point was the only spot connected to the boards real VCC. All of the preassembled boards going out for the past few months have four black diodes installed in them, so all of the V column are connected to the board’s real VCC just fine, and through a diode.
@toodles
Question… I bought Axisdapter and I just connected the 5pin of the JLF and put the black wire (ground) to the COM_L beside DOWN. And I connected the buttons for Start to ST, Home to PS and Select to SE and their ground to COM beside ST. Am I doing it wrongly? When I tried connecting it to the PS3 the SIXAXIS just keeps on blinking.
The blue strip for the connection to AxisDapter going to SIXAXIS is facing up. Please help
EDIT:
It’s ok now… no need to reply
I’ve bought 4x PS3/PC boards and 2x MC boards from lizardlick in the last 6 months. Just wanted to say thanks Toodles. Great product, great work.
Very excited to see the Chimp pass it’s beta and get into my hands!
Quick question. I am hopping to add USB power port to my stick that I am currently building with an MC Cthulhu so that I can plug a Sixaxis into it for charging only.
This will basically be a USB plug with GND and +5V connected only. What I was wondering is should I just run my +5V line off the USB-B plug (not using it, doing a detachable RJ45 plug mod), or should I run it off a separate row, so that it has it’s own blocking diode?
Also, I am assuming that the Chthulhu uses relatively low power off the USB port to do its thing, as it looks like the only energy being drawn is for the Pic and a bunch of 5V pull ups, which is effectively zero, so I would assume this is safe.
Thanks.
V column is for things providing power TO the cthulhu. To do what you’re describing, you’ll want to tap from the VCC and GND screw terminals. As long as the current draw from the pad and the cthulhu aren’t too high, it should work.
Hi guys
are there any known problems with the cthulhu board and Windows 7?
When I’m using my modded TE Stick with die Cthulhu, the buttons are all switched up, so in SF4 the Home button isn’t going to the Menu and so on.
With my custom stick I can’t use “up”, when i press the Stick up, im getting an error message and the Stick isn’t connected to the pc any longer.
After checking the boards for 1h, I tried both on my ps3 and they work perfectly…
Does anybody know a solution?
Since you’re seeing it work, I’d say its safe to say it works just fine on windows 7.
As for SF4, you will need to assign the buttons as needed; it’s expecting an Xbox360 controller thanks to GFWL.
Your post doesn’t have any information about the setup inside your stick. Imp vs DPDT vs two cords, no description of the wiring, no pictures, other changes to the TE, or even which Cthulhu (MC or PS3) you’re using. If you want suggestions on what to look for, it’s be helpful for me to know what you’re looking at.
Thanks for the quick response.
In my TE its a PS3 Cthulhu + Imp, wiring is done like in the Tutorial Thread here on SRK. In my custom stick theres a hacked wireless 360 PCB (CG Mod with optocopplers) + PS3 Cthulhu with seperated USB-Connectors.
My custom stick definitely worked before I installed W7 and as I said, it still works when connected to the PS3, but when I move the stick up, i lose the connection to the pc. I can’t test on another OS, because I only have W7 installed. I don’t know if the buttons where jumbled up before (i bought SF4 for PC just recently), but they are definitely are now. And how am I supposed to assign the Home, Start and Back Button?
Thanks for the response, I should have realized it was safe to use the VCC as that is the aux power for LEDs etc. as mentioned in your guide.
Thanks again.
This question may have been answered a few times before, so apologies for the repeat, but will the MC Cthulhu work fine with the Hori PCB out of the HRAPEX?