You can use the screw down terminal inside the TE to access the buttons and common ground. However, the Imp (assuming you are using one) will require some soldering and you will need to connect the D+/- lines from the TE and Cthulhu PCB’s. and well as desoldering the USB Cable from the TE PCB onto the Imp. The guide button line on the Imp will require soldering as well.
Sorry to be a pain but I’d appreciate a response to this query.
Are you still selling the unassembled kits ?
still no response 
here it is again, someone please help!
i AM testing my dual modded TE stick on my PC ( i do not have a xbox to test it on)
when i plug it in under xbox mode, no game controller is detected.
the xbox guide button keeps flashing from 1>2>3>4, instead of a steady light on 1.
HELP~~
This was my original plan, it violates a golden rule of dual pcb modding (all pcb’s powered at the same time), but I cant think of a reason that it wouldnt work! I’ve used ShinJN’s method for connecting my buttons to the screw down terminal without soldering. My cthulhu (ordered from a 3rd party vendor) took 2 months to get to me, in that 2 months I decided that it was worth my while to learn to solder so I could use an Imp and have only 1 usb cable.
[quote=shan1212]
still no response
here it is again, someone please help!
i AM testing my dual modded TE stick on my PC ( i do not have a xbox to test it on)
when i plug it in under xbox mode, no game controller is detected.
the xbox guide button keeps flashing from 1>2>3>4, instead of a steady light on 1.
HELP~~
[/Quote]
shan1212 could you take some closeup pics of your solder work? My VCC wire to my Xbox360 pcb broke off a few days ago, so absolutely nothing came up in xbox360 mode, it’s most likely either your D+ or D- that’s causing the problems as your pcb is recieving power and ground.
I’m happy having 2 USB sockets inside the TE’s back panel, and I’m fine with soldering (done a 360 PCB padhack before) but I’d rather not do it if I don’t have to.
What’s the ShinJN method for solderless button connection?
Cheers for the response.
I’m having a bit of trouble connecting my MC Cthulhu + Imp + Madcatz 4716 setup to the Xbox 360.
Everything works perfectly on PC. If I hold the guide button while plugging in I get the Madcatz pcb and everything works. If I don’t hold guide while plugging in I get MC Cthulhu pcb and everything works.
On the 360 however, if I hold guide while plugging in I still get nothing. The LEDs on the Madcatz board are lit for about a second (all 4 of them) but then go out, doesn’t settle on player 1 like it does on PC. Without holding guide the LEDs blink on then immediately turn off.
I have everything going to a single RJ45 jack. Here are some pics.
Here’s the wiring for everything relevant:
Imp
G-Blk -> nothing
V-red -> nothing
D+ Grn -> RJ45 Jack pin 6
D- Wht -> RJ45 Jack pin 5
Ground -> Ground screw terminal on Cthulhu
VCC -> V on Cthulhu output row (GABCDEFV)
2 D+ -> D+ on 4716
2 D- -> D- on 4716
1 D+ -> E on Cthulhu output row
1 D- -> D on Cthulhu output row
Guide -> Guide on Cthulhu
Start -> nothing
Select -> nothing
Cthulhu output rows (GABCDEFV)
G -> RJ45 Pin 1
A -> RJ45 Pin 2
B -> RJ45 Pin 3
C -> RJ45 Pin 4
D -> Imp 1 D-
E -> Imp 1 D+
F -> RJ45 Pin 7
V -> RJ45 Pin 8
V -> Imp VCC
2 V points were used.
Madcatz 4716 USB connections
VCC -> "A" on Cthulhu "A-H 1-9" points
D- -> 2 D- on Imp
D+ -> 2 D+ on Imp
Ground -> Nothing. Ground is connected from this pad to the cthulhu from the "Dpad right" button's ground point to "C" on the Cthulhu "A-H 1-9" points
Go here http://sdtekken.com/2009/02/07/shinjns-workshop-sf4-tournament-edition-stick-modding/
and watch the EXTRA: Solderless Tricks & Tips for QDs and Ribbon Connectors, then you can basically tell how he gets an extra wire into the quick disconnects. I went ahead and stuck them into the madcatz terminal strip, 1 for ground, and 1 in each of the 10 button’s lead, the terminal strip that’s closest to the start/back buttons is the ground strip. The ribbon cable method looks a little harder but would leave you with a cleaner stick.
Toodles, do you solder all the points on the screw terminals to the PCB in your assembled MC Cthulhu board?
Hey Toodles (or anyone else who can help). I have an issue with my custom stick. I’m using MC Cthulhu+madcatz360+imp. When i plug it into the 360, all is well. when i plug it into the PS3 all buttons except 3k and 4k work. when i plug it into the PC it looks like this.
Any ideas?? Do you need any more info??
thx alot
is there a way to be more sure about the D+ or D- lines?
like what voltage should they be at? just by looking at them, i dont seen the wire being lose or broken.
First post of the Imp thread has a link to troubleshooting guide you should use.
All correct. But there isn’t a guide or tutorial to tell you how to do it, and I have no idea when I’ll time to try and write one. Lastly, it’d be even more costly than normal because my way uses wire splices, and those aren’t cheap.
Sure, see the previous question.
No, see the previous question.
Don’t spam.
I’d appreciate it, but it’d have to be with the consent that it may not be tested and returned until Christmas 
Nope.
Sounds like the security chip. There’s nothing you can do but grab another madcatz pcb and swap it in. Your tests show both the Cthulhu and the Imp working properly, and even show the Madcatz pad is wired correctly.
Yes, all of the screw terminals are soldered down. No, I personally didn’t do the soldering. They’re professionally assembled and I’m pretty sure entirely machine driven.
Most likely scenario: you used a madcatz pad and not the pcb from a TE or SE and wired your triggers wrong. There’s long threads elsewhere dealing with inverting triggers you should check out.
multimeter >> eyeballs.
whoaaa how come your no longer selling unassembled kits??
noooooooooooooo
edit: i just read a few pages bag… it seems there are new boards on the way the “chImp” basically a cthuhlu ps3 only and imp put together… will it be roughly the same price as an uassembled cthuhlu and imp? ie. $30 USD? hopefully…
also, will the imp still stay in production? final question… when will these suckers be out?
I did use the Madcatz pad. I dont think its the triggers. i used your method with the npn transistors, and when i use the stick on my X360 all the buttons work fine.
try just using a multivolt meter to check for continuity between the 3k/ground and 4k/ground on the cthulhu board, with and without the button being held down. If they’re constantly a circuit, I’d first make sure the cthulhu isnt on anything conductive (ie the metal at the very bottom of the stick or a loose wire)
Toodles, thanks for adding that “Disable Home” capability. Saved me loads of time from drilling a new hole to accomadate a “home” button on a PS2 MAS Stick build (rewiring).
Okay, I must’ve had a fluke then. On my assembled MC Cthulhu only 4 of the 20 screw terminals were soldered down. START, VCC on one side; the two GND terminals on the other.
It wasn’t a big deal since I soldered it down myself.
Thanks a lot for responding. Why do I have to use wire splices? I was just planning on soldering the cthulhu directly to the 8 face buttons, start and select, and then splitting the joystick wires and soldering the cthulhu to those connections and only ever having one board powered at a time. Is this not possible?
Also, is there an eta on the ChImp boards as I’ll just wait for that if my proposed method won’t work, but I can’t really see why it won’t.
It’s the triggers.
heh, someone tacked down the corners but didnt finish. I do that a bunch when I assembled them myself, but its been a long time since I’ve done that. Whether it was done by me or one of the resellers who assembled the kit to sell, sounds like just an accident.
I didnt say you had to, I just said MY (solderless) way uses wire splices. I read into your post that you wanted to avoid soldering at all; the implication soldering to the wires was ok was lost on me.
Sure, very possible. Connect signals to signals, power to power, and ground to ground. And that’s all of the tutorial Im gonna write for it.
C’mon, you could at least have read ANY of the dual mod threads, the 2 pcb’s thread, anything. I think the last recitation of the golden rules was maybe two pages back?
(p.s. Your next impulse is to ask ‘But why can’t I just keep them unpowered when using the other board?’ Don’t. )
Not a firm one, no. I havent even receive the boards yet, much less get the code finished for it.