if you’re using the cthulhu with imp, you use the data lines wthere the usb port is attached right? I guess you could just solder on the other side, but I personally like having the holes there more, plus if you’re not gonna use the port for anything, there’s really no reason to have it… idk, i’d probably remove it too…
While I suppose you COULD, there’s no good reason I can think of to do so. Its much easier to use the larger hole and larger pads available just above it in columns D and E.
A few pages back you put up a new beta of the firmware? Perhaps I’m mistaken
Anyhow, alright, just wanted to make sure it was cool with you first.
I see, I never thought about that. I used bomberman’s fightstick multiconsole mod guide when I did my first mod, which uses those points, so I just figured that’s the way to do it. Given the choice I’d go without the port in that application since it’s not going to be used, but I guess if it’s already there and you can use those other points it wouldn’t be worth the work of taking it off.
I did. Voltage showed about 3.3.
Ok my first post and its all about the Cthulhu. Ive never modded a stick before except for a supergun and will be putting a MC cthulhu in a 360 te stick with the intention of using it on my ps3.
Ive read and read and read but is there any essential tips that anyone can give before i go for it who may have done this mod.
Ive read this guide a few times and sort of intend to follow it mostly. I have got an imp board but want to make sure that all is working before i add that
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=203509
Bri
now i’ve got a new problem with my dual modded TE:
its been about a month since i dual modded my TE
and now while the cthulu mode works fine, whenever i plug it into my PC with xbox mode, my PC doesn’t see it. The guide button keeps flashing on all 4 corners instead of showing a 1 or 2.
any ideas?
Firmware 1.3 is done and up.
http://www.marcuspost.com/downloads/cthulhu/MCCthulhu13.zip
Changelog:
- In normal Gamecube mode, button 4P now activates the ‘B’ button, and button 4K now activates the ‘Y’ button. Both were previously unused, changes added per request of MooseTrousers to make SNK games easier to play on 8 button sticks.
- Xbox1 autodetection in and working.
- General overhaul of console detection routines.
- Corrected typo in USB string.
Glad you like it. Gremlin was interested in carrying them, I sent a sample, and then never heard back from them, so I’m assuming they’re not interested. I’m cool doing bulk orders, send me a PM with an idea of how many of what you’re looking for and I’ll see what I can do. And PLEASE be open to the idea of Express shipping. I think the 1 week shipping time and tracking number would help set both our hearts at ease.
Cool, then the chip is powered. 0.47uF cap:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=P929-ND
Why aren’t you testing on a PC to see how it reacts? Shows up as a TE properly: Security chip failure and you’re screwed. Unknown device or other USB error: either a wiring problem which could be fixed or a total PCB failure and you’re screwed.
Check your USB connection on the PCB and see if that’s the problem.
wow i’m very happy with this board and my new stick, wikkid work toodles!
appreciate it.
Hmm… I’m not sure what the problem is with one of my PS3 Cthulhu boards. So I ordered a batch of 6, and one out of the bunch refuses to work.
Going through your troubleshooting guide Toodles, I managed to find out on my board that pin#14 on the PIC did NOT show any voltage when powered. Following the instructions, I tried replacing the C2 capacitor with a new one, AND changing the PIC chip altogether. Still no voltage reading on pin14, or on columns A and B.
I know it’s not my wiring job, because I used it during a Dual-modification of a TE, and replacing the problem Cthulhu board with another PS3 Cthulhu that I had bought worked perfectly.
Thought I’d post the problem to get advice from other people.
i AM testing on a PC.
when i plug it in as a xbox stick, no game controller is detected. i dont have a xbox to test it.
So would I be correct in thinking that a) MC ChImp is impossible because there aren’t enough I/O lines on the logic chip you’re using, b) MC Cthulhu will continue to be produced as long as there’s demand, c) MC Cthulhu + new Imp will be able to give us all the functionality of a Multiconsole ChImp if one actually existed?
Thanks for all the awesome work you’ve done and continue to do, don’t let it + classes bury you.
correct on all points
So how does one get the Cthulhu into bootloader mode on if I’m using an Imp where start+select = guide? Do I have to temporarily rewire it?
Also, if you get the autodetection working for the Imp and I wanted to take advantage of that, would I have to order one of the new Imps or will I be able to download new firmware onto my current one?
Either the MC would have to be setup as secondary, or a USB cable would need to be plugged directly into the MC.
MC: Autodetection isn’t going to happen for MC’s
PS3: Doesnt have firmware updating.
Alright, thanks. I’ll just leave the firmware as is for now, since the changes don’t affect me too much.
CLIFFNOTES to this long useless post:
While I was removing the USB cable from the Xbox TE PCB, I ripped out the metal connecting joint on the D- point. (Bottom right area, http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h201/eastx/arcade%20sticks/ps3cthulhuandimptotestickdiagram.jpg) If you look to the left, there are weird soldered joints with little black floaty squares. If you happen to rip out your D+ or D- terminal or anything like that, if you go directly left of the point and solder to the square there, it SHOULD work (it did for me). Don’t blame me if something catches on fire though.
/CLIFFNOTES
Alright, so I have an Xbox TE stick and bought a Cthulhu and imp to dual mod.
As I was soldering the D- on the Xbox PCB, I pulled too hard on the cable and the metal contact ring on the PCB was ripped out. I now have nothing in that hole to solder to.
I threw a big ole blob of solder in there and it seemed to be holding solidly, so I crossed my fingers and finished up the rest of the wiring. I set the Cthulhu as the primary and xbox stick as secondary. When I plug in my stick to my laptop, the cthulhu works just fine and all the buttons/directions/guide button work.
When I plug in and go for secondary holding down the guide button, the device is not recognized. Before I did this mod the stick worked fine on my laptop, so I suspect the D- terminal is fubar.
Is there another place on the PCB to which I can wire D-? Am I boned? Do I have to buy a Madcatz stick and padhack it to salvage this project?
Thanks for reading this,
Jack
EDIT:
Was messing around with the multimeter, poking a bunch of shit with probes and found something interesting.
I was checking the resistance of my D+ wire to miscellaneous contacts on the circuit board and found that the weird rectangular solder joints next to the box with the D+, ground, VCC, etc (except for my broke ass D-) all have ~1 ohm resistance when connected in-line to their matching counterparts in the box where the cable usually connects (as seen on the bottom right in this picture, http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h201/eastx/arcade%20sticks/ps3cthulhuandimptotestickdiagram.jpg - if you go directly left from where the USB cable used to be).
Should I go for broke and try soldering my D- to the weird joint on the left?
Edit2:
I went for it and it ended up working. Dual mod success.
Thanks a ton, Toodles! Now time to test out my desoldering skillz!