I love you. I have a spare 360 PCB just sitting around because I didn’t feel like making an inverter, now I know where I’m gonna use it!
Damn, you’re doing all this while in school… impressive.
I didn’t realize these changes were coming, but I have one question (I don’t know if I fully understood your post).
Will you be selling fully assembled MC Cthulhus without the screw terminal or usb jack? ( see you said it’s cheaper for you to go assembled vs kit, even without those parts, but i’m not clear on if they will actually be made without them).
No, they all have USB jacks and screw terminals.
Hi Toodles,
I just wanted to make sure I ordered the correct replacement component. I damaged one of the 10pin 10k Ohm Resistor Network. I soldered it in wrong and then snapped it half pulling it out. I ordered this part from Digikey rather than bothering you to send a small part.
Thanks.
Looks perfect. I’d be grumbly sending just one out, but I’d be happy to throw in an extra on another order.
Thanks. No worries. I already ordered from Digikey. I have a few kits in stock and won’t be using them for a while.
Thats really exciting news. This might have already been covered but any idea what the ChImp will cost, and when we can expect it?
Toodles,
According to the troubleshooting guide (step 2B) I need a new C2 capacitor. Can you link me to a good replacement on either mouser or digikey?
BTW, awesome product, just having a little trouble getting mine to work.
Thanks.
Did you do 2C and test the voltage on the A column
Alright so I got the boards in today and I started solder and I realized I made a mistake with my planning.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a246/synix09/th_Cthulhu360PCBImpRJ45.jpg
For the 360 PCB, I drew the USB wire going to the USB on the Imp. But then the USB solder points on the 360 PCB are used again to go to the 2 D+/- on the Imp. This isn’t right, is it? Would I just totally ignore the USB on the Imp?
Also another question. The Imp asks for the signals for Start and Select so does that mean:
- I feed it Start and Back directly from the 360 PCB and ignore putting a wire for Start/Select from the 360 PCB to the top section of the Cthulhu?
- Or would I have to run 2 wires from the Start/Select 360 PCB (one to Cthulhu top 2 rows, other to Imp)?
- Or I feed it the bottom left side sections of the Cthulhu start/select?
Hi Toodles,
Just a quick note to ask who in the UK stocks your Cthulhu board? There’s a bunch of us on another forum looking to do a bulk buy, but I got mine from you last year while you were still selling them direct…
I thought it was Gremlin Solutions, but his site has been down and so I can’t look…
I know there’s not much that can go wrong with the board, but just a quick endorsement from me on how durable it is!
I’m a 100% noob to woodworking and I’ve been experimenting with different designs, materials, tools etc… As such it’s been in and out of a couple of ‘prototype’ setups, and had the wiring done, undone and re-done on a few different occasions. It’s also spent a bit of time sat, unprotected in a garage (as an oversight when I threw a paddy about not being able to make a decent box and gave up for months!!) and is still in perfect nick.
Great product 
Opps, double post.
-delete-
Wow, it sounds like the new boards are both good and bad news.
The good news is that PS3 & 360-only dual mods will be much easier to do. Sweet!
The bad news is that dual mods + GC/PS/Xbox 1 support are gonna be like $15 more expensive.
Take a moment to look over the welcome sheet that came with the Imp. That should clear up all of your questions.
Silly Aggie. :lol:
Thats great to hear toodles. I’m looking forward to new board. =)
Rofl. I spent so much time reading other people’s guides and setups, I forgot about the basics. Thanks.
Was thinking the same thing… I’m looking around to stalk up on a few barebones MC kits now, the prices is just too good for the small amount of work that has to be done to put them together. No more barebones kit and no MC ChImp makes me a little :sad: haha. But I get that you gotta do what you gotta do to keep a business running smoothly
Wow, I’m so lucky I did my MC Cthulhu kit + 360 dual mod when I did. It’s too bad there won’t be MC Chimps, though I’m sure one can just de-solder the USB port off a pre-assembled MC Cthulhu if they still wanted to do a dual-mod with an MC.
Toodles, question for you.
I’m doing a special mod that required me to not use your fabricated PCB, although really nice…it won’t work with what I’m doing. It’s the PS3/PC only version, so I was able to cut out the un-needed pinouts.
So I remapped everything, tested, and put all the components on a pre-drilled board to save space. It works well, but I’m coming into the part that will become the tutorial that I’ll eventually post when it’s all done.
My question is, for my mod, I had to redraw your PCB so I could find where everything went and place things accordingly…would it be okay if I put that up along with my tutorial? If you don’t want your schematic put up I won’t, but this is just in case someone wants to attempt what I did.
Obviously it’ll be something you won’t give tech. support for, but I noticed you post the program for the PIC, and was curious if you held the schematic any differently.
edit:
sounds like I should get an MC kit for my next mod idea before you pull the kits off the shelf, lol.
??? Why would anyone need or even want to do that?
? I think you are mistaken. If you know of someplace I’ve put the PIC code up, please point it out. If you want to put up a design for a different layout for the Cthulhu to go into, be my guest.