Alright, Xbox autodetection works peachy, gamecube and PSX autodetect quicker, so I’ll be making a couple of minor tweaks and releasing it as a full 1.3 version of the firmware.
Ubersaurus, I’m having to still replug when using HD Loader, so I hate to say it, but I expect you’ll still experience the same problem for a little while longer; this rev wont fix that. The good news is that I can at least reproduce the problem, so I can look into it better.
Very awesome thread thanks a lot, I’m just getting into making a arcade stick from what I have read the assembled ones don’t need soldering but for running the wires from the button to the cthulhu board does it need soldering or do you just run the wire in the according port and screw it in? Thanks.
Congrats on the improved autodetection. The official opinion on combining both boards together some day? 
just a quick questions with regards to the gamecube part of the mc cthulhu when testing it on the wii, should the buttons and directional keys work under the wii menu?
I don’t have a gamecube straight up to test… its the only one i haven’t been able to test… my rj45 mods work with ps3, ps2 , pc, and xbox (provided you hold left when you boot up)
Oy! thanks for working on this so soon, need any more people to test out this fw?
No, the Wii menu only works with Wiimotes. Doesn’t take any Gamecube controller input.
Toodles, do you ever plan to add L3 and R3 button functionality. I know it isn’t necessary, but I’m just such a “completionist” XD.
okay guys, I have an XBOX 360 TE stick and I’m planning on modding it with the Cthulhu board and imp board to work on my PS3. I also have a PS3 SE stick that I really don’t use and I was wondering if there’s any parts ( button wires, PCB, dock, or wire that connects to console) that I can use for the Dual mod? It will help alot since I dont have much money. It could help lower the cost of the things I need to by like solder iron, wores to connect to the IMP board, and such
just run the wire to the proper screw terminal and screw it down. It’s supposed to be easy. 
Nope, wii menu is only controllable by a wiimote. Grab a GC capable Wii game, or any VC title, and it’ll work.
The beta firmware autodetects Xbox now, so if the holding left is a problem, install the 1.3beta firmware, or wait a day or so for a proper 1.3 release.
I always need more reports on converters and any other input, but everything seems to work, so I’ll be finishing a proper 1.3 release here soon
Nope, no plans.
You should be reading through Bomberman’s tutorial. Any questions you have are answered there. Is there anything worth canabalizing from a different stick? No.
Really you will still need a soldering iron, solder, wire, and maybe flux, I cant think of anything you could use out of the SE that would help honestly. Someone jump in here and tell me if he could use the SE’s PCB with the Imp and dual mod without the cthulhu?
Sure, but I dont know of any tutorials to guide him through it, but yeah that should be possible.
toodles: whenever you’re releasing the new firmware for the MC cthulhu, you think you can post it in your first post?
Certainly, but there hasn’t been any I’d consider official yet I’ll definitely do that when this one is finished.
If I run out of wire, there’s no problem in cutting up an old Cat5 cable and using those wires to solder, right? Or is there something I’m not aware about.
Wire gauge is not an issue, except for how easy or difficult it is for you to use, and whether its a size that will fit securely in the screw terminals. You could rig a stick with strips of aluminum foil if you really wanted to.
Hah. Thanks Toodles. I think I’ll try the aluminum foil technique. Pics up soon.
sorry if this is a stupid question or has been answered already but I was wondering what size screw you guys used to put in the cthulhu board to keep it in place? 
Not that stupid dude. I wondered the same thing. Pretty much anything smaller then a screw that would mount a motherboard to a computer case (the screw I used, it was a tight squeeze in the boarf and about half a millimeter too large so I ended up threading the board a little bit.) which are a size of 6-32. So work with something smaller then that and you are golden.
-Jeremy
Hey Toodles, have you given thought to posting up about these on other forums? I imagine something like this would be pretty popular on the shmups forum, or a retrogaming one…particularly considering all the compilations that have come out recently.
I’m out of both PS3 and MC versions of the Cthulhu kits, and won’t be making any more. It’s just not worth it to carry them anymore. This may sound weird and counterintuitive, but it is cheaper for me to get fully assembled boards than it is to make kits even without the screw terminals and USB jacks. There’s also no worries about the time needed for all of the support for folks who decide to use this as their first ever soldering project. If I have to send out a replacement 10 cent part, I’m actually paying for the privilege of selling the board, and that’s just not cricket.
The largest group of folks who get kits over assembled boards are those being used for dual mods, and it’s not my intention to leave them out. PCBs for the board, the ChImp, have already been ordered and are being fabbed now. I should receive them in under two weeks, and will then have to finish up the code for it, but it should be obvious that its a PS3 Cthulhu with a built in Imp. The main thing I need to test is that I think I know how I can make the board autodetect which console it is connected to, and turn on the switch to 360 when a 360 console is detected. No Guide button or slide switch foolishness, just plug and go. That’s the idea, and I’ll definitely post up when I get it working. These will be available as kits when they are available. And before anyone asks, no, I can’t do a MC ChImp; the lines needed for the other consoles are being used to control the switch. There’s a couple of other nice perks as well, like two lines will be available if the 360 pad requires inverting of the triggers. You wont have to mess with resistors, transistors, inverters, or anything else. If the triggers need inverted, you just remove the pots and run the wires to these two points instead of the usual uninverted two points.
An LED controller board has also been laid out according to Kaytrim’s requirements. I’m looking forward to seeing what we can make that thing do; as it is, it can control either up to 11 buttons, or 8 buttons and one stick, and since its fully programmable, we can make it dance. Right out of the gate, I would expect to have the LEDs slowly get brighter when pressed, and slowly dim back down to off when released. Any maybe a quick little pattern when turned on.
New Imps were also ordered. The holes under the USB were embiggened to make getting wires into the holes easier. There were also two holes added under the 8 pin PIC; the idea is that if you didn’t want an kit ChImp, you could get a full assembled Cthulhu board, and run two extra wires from the Cthulhu to the Imp and still take advantage of the autodetect functionality (assuming I can get it to work).
Did I mention school is back on? FML.