That’s three times now you havent said what the voltage on the Imp’s Guide point with the slide on RS
I think he did, wasn’t that it?
Ah I see what you’re saying. If the voltage is always the same on the Imp’s guide, but changes on the RSTICK point of the 360 pcb, then those points arent connected. Fix the wire between the TE’s RSTICK point and the Imp’s guide point.
yep turns out its a bad wire from the Rstick point to the guide point
now Cthulu is being recognized.
working on tidying up my wires and re-securing solder points with hot glues
hopefully there wont be anymore problems
thx guys
Hey guys, I need some help. I’m using a Cthulhu (standard) and it sometimes drops buttons once in a while. The same buttons get dropped all at once: start, back, 2P, 3P, 2K, 3K. However, I still can use: Joystick, 1P, 1K, and Home button. I have wired a cthulhu before and this hasn’t happened to me until now. The only difference this time is that I daisy chained ground from buttons: Back -> Home -> Start -> 3P -> 3K -> 2K -> 2P -> 1P -> 1K -> ground terminal on Cthulhu. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Sorry. I dont know. Its my first try doing such a mod.
I also searched the forum but could not find help.
Can you offer a link please, where i can find these rules?
Thanks in advance
Ok, so I tried switching the daisy chained ground wire into another ground terminal on the cthulhu and it seems to be working now…weird.
Got a Cthulhu this past week, and with the help of a friend, installed it into my stick in a dual mod with a 360 pad (generic MadCatz pad) and an Imp, and threw in an RJ-45 jack so I can just swap cables as needed (including USB). Works great so far, but got a couple issues:
-
I’m running into the same PS2 connectivity issues that Ubersaurus and NalL256 ran into - the controller needs to be reconnected when a PS2 game starts, when starting games on certain arcade collections, or when loading a game with SwapMagic or HD Loader (two of my friends have PS2s loaded with the latter). I’m curious as to if this is a universal problem with the Cthulhus, or if it’s only affecting those who are using a Cthulhu in a dual-PCB setup.
-
The PS3/USB functionality of the Cthulhu doesn’t seem to work properly in Windows 7 RC (64-bit). When I plug it into my Win7-powered PC through USB, the systems has a problem when trying to find a driver. Switching to the 360 functionality works, but I’m curious as to why the USB functionality on the Cthulhu doesn’t like Win7. It isn’t the hardware, though, as the Cthulhu worked on my friend’s XP SP3 system through USB.
EDIT: nm about the second problem, now it’s working in Win7 properly.
EDIT2: Or the first, apparently it affects stand-alone boards as well.
This has probably been brought up already, but as for making the pcb work with 360s… Just like the various ->360 converters, maybe a 360 pcb could simply be connected to the chtulhu somehow and through some techno-magic lend it’s security chip powers, while still taking the button input from chtulhu?
I don’t know, this is probably super hard and someone probably mentioned it already. Plus if that new converter really is lagless, then that would be much easier. Would have been neat though, much less wiring.
Does anybody else know about the “golen rules of dual mods” toodles talked about?
I realy like to finish my arcade stick to have some fun with it over the weekend
The Three Cthulhu Commandments:
First Commandment:
Thou shalt not Cthulhu Dual mod outside of a fightstick (although it is possible, Toodles does not support this)
Second Commandment:
Thou shalt not use non-commond ground PCB’s (All boards must be common ground)
Third Commandment:
Thy must power all PCB’s simultaneously (all boards must be powered at the same time)
So it is written, so it shall be done! :mad:
Thanks a lot
So i have to fix point 3…
Hi,
I’m planning to drill some holes at the back of my HRAP3 for the start & select buttons. Do you think you can tell me what equipment I should use? I kinda now what I can use for wood, but I just want to make sure that the HRAp3 (plastic?) can take it.
Any suggestions appreciated. Thank you.
This really isn’t the thread for this question…plus you asked the question in two places… I answered it for you in the other thread which was more appropriate.
I’m not ChrisR, but I have a slim PS2 and I can confirm the connectivity issues happen there, too.
Just got my Cthulhu.
I haven’t wired it up yet, but I’m super impressed with the board layout (simple, but well done none the less), the quality of the soldering, etc…
Its a really nice piece of work, and I’m glad to finally get my hands on one.
Received my cthulhu today. I ordered an assembled ps3/pc cthulhu and got a mutant one. It’s a ps3/pc chip (F24) but with the mc’s diodes soldered on it.
I plugged it in my computer, without wiring, and it looks like it’s working.
Will it be a source of problem?
Not at all. There’s half a dozen reasons why, but all of the preassembled boards now all come with the diodes there and in place. It’s a feature, not a problem.
Thanks for the quick reply!
Hey Toodles I have a question for you. I will be building my first arcade stick soon. I’m going to use your Cthulhu board so it will work with my ps3 and pc. I know that as is the home button will not power on the ps3 and the stick will not be wireless. Could i use the following to make the stick wireless and so the home button will power on my ps3, AND still work on pc: AXISdapter connect the wires from it to the Cthulhu then to my buttons and stick? If this will work is there a way to set it up so that the main usb cable from the cthulhu board will charge the battery for the ps3 controller? Would this set up cause lag? Thanks for taking the time to read a noobs questions.