Oddly enough I have at least one MC Cthulu that works perfectly fine with a PS3 but will not operate on PS2. It will also not recognize as a USB device when plugged in to a PC, and I’ve successfully tested other Cthulus in the same PC multiple times.
Works perfectly fine for PS3 though.
I have to admit, I’m dumbfounded. I don’t even see how that could be possible. You want me to swap you out on your next order?
Honestly, I’m as confused as you probably are. I’ll mail off this one as soon as I swap it out so you can see if there is anything wrong with it. I need to check the other one to see if it’s exhibiting the same behaviour as well, these are from the one I messaged you about some time ago talking about how they worked fine in when I installed and tested their PS2 workability until I shipped them to Ramza and he used them in his PS2.
I’m of the opinion that he is where sticks go to die.
you can use any of the 4 ground spots on the cthulhu.
what you should do is daisy chain the grounds of the buttons together like the picture above. it doesn’t matter which spot you use from your buttons. just use one for signal, and one connected to the ground chain you create.
read up on slagcoin and learn a little bit. http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_wiring.html
During the week, I have less time and therefore it might be pushed back to Next weekend again, but, the one thing that really stumped me was what to do with the small wires that are coming off of the PCB connected to L2, R2, select and PS.
Are those supposed to be Daisy chained as well??? They are pretty damn short.
As for daisy chaining, I’m guessing from reading that link it is getting a bunch of quick disconnects, and bring the two ends together, one from the one from the other quick disconnect (button), the other for the current one that will then go to the next quick disconnect (button). I’m assuming there won’t be any problem with it fitting and coming together??
Any thing I’m missing???
Edit 1: I saw one of the Mods for the SFIV tournament Edition video. I think I got the chaining problem down now. But I’m still not sure about that small wire connecting the two PCBs together.
Marcus,
I have checked the wiring several times and it is correct. I think my problem may be the adapter I am using. I have ordered a new one based on the information in your first post. If I come across any other problems I’ll let you know.
Michael
i just received a cthulu v1.1 from a friend and the usb jack does not work. i used a multimeter on the 4 solder points and it seems that i am not getting anything from the VCC.
is it ok if i use the one of the 3 rows V E D and G?
found my answer on your instructables on how to instal xbox cable on mC Cthulhu**
for L2, R2, etc. just solder new wires to the bottom side of the green pcb. either connect that ground to the ground chain you make, or just wire it to a different ground spot on the cthulhu.
edit: i don’t know much about the vshg, but isn’t that stick for ps3 already? or do you have a 360 version?
There’s a flaw in the earlier models; I think its the one that has difficulty with all three punch or all three kick motions. Some folks, like I assume powerincarnate is doing, swap out the pcb for Cthulhu because the Cthulhu doesn’t have that flaw.
I really wanted to avoid soldering that is why. but If I HAVE to then I’ll try it.
I wanted to do the mod because of the 3 button issue. It definitely comes up with SFIV, and made me end up not using the stick and instead using one of those SFIV madcatz pads.
the Point to solder it would be A. Where the wires enter from above or B. Somewhere else???
i feel like this is exactly what you’re looking for. [media=youtube]O4uAgx-EAOQ[/media]
Haha, I saw that this morning, that is what gave me my confidence back. That is why I edited my post this morning, Now it is just the cord coming from the R2 L2 etc. I was thinking of cutting it and attaching longer wires to the cut ends, or B. The soldering option.
But thanks for the help. I don’t have time during the weekday because of Work, so I’m just gonna keep gathering information (and the tools) and get at it again over the weekend.
Hi toodles, just received a MC cthulu I ordered on modchipman with other things and I am quite surprised : in the “How to use the cthulu” paper you say you can connect the Xbox 360 PCB to the holes that are at the top of the cthulu (A to H, 1 to 9) and that surprised me a lot !
I wanted to un-solder the USB connection to put a switch for the Xbox/PS3 choose when playing, but with this it seems it possible even more simply.
So questions :
That’s all for the moment… Thank you and excuse my english. 
ps : if it works, be sure I’ll send you some customers 
So you read the part on that same sheet about how its an advanced mod and wouldn’t be supported, yeah?
Sure, but you should really consider finding a source for them locally; shipping them out to you will be expensive. Prices for the cables themselves are listed in the first post.
When you said “No support” I though you were talking about tutorials like the one you did for the PSX, GC, etc Cables and I understand you do not want to take the risk having hundread of people wiring everything that pass to their hands in.
I heard they were people using electronics to “stop” one of the PCB when they did not have a signal sended from the console, perhaps it’s what you are afraid of explaining and do not want losing time to do so. I will not do it cause I’m not skilled enough, so if that’s this, don’t be afraid.
I’m not asking you how to do anything, I just want to know what we are talking about that’s all, I’ll do my mod as I wanted it in the beginning.
As for the cable I just remembered that I could use cable extensions instead of original pads, so it’s less expensive. But just for your information you are not so expensive you think you are.:wgrin: :
For the cable you wrote that it was $13 for the transport and 5$ each cable, so it’s 28$, so 20 for me (having chance with the conversion)
I made a tour on french website or even ebay france, and each manette are sold 2 to 4 without travel, travel that cost almost 4 each time, meaning each controller will cost 8, so 24 total. So passing by you is less expensive !
Ok, so the good news? Finally got all my parts together and wired together my first stick. Yay!
The bad news? It’s not working correctly…well…it’s working halfway.
To be more precise, I keep getting an error when plugged into Windows (though I suppose it responding is better then nothing). The error is as follows “One of the USB devices attached to this computer has malfunctioned, and Windows does not recognize it.”. Hell, I can’t even seem to get the thing to respond on my laptop yet.
So you may now be asking yourself; “But Llama, how is it working half-way then?”. Well, let me tell you! When I plug it into my PS3, it appears I can get it to sort’a work. Pressing down actually moves it down, moving it to the left makes it go up, somehow, unsure how because it doesn’t seem to work all the time, it moves left. Also, I’m able to press the X button apparently.
Oh, and another problem, I keep getting a warning about the maximum power of a USB port on the PS3 (80gig/backwards compatible) being used.
Anyone have any ideas? D:
Maybe you’re shorting the VCC to ground/common.
It pretty much means if it breaks, you can keep both pieces. All of the information you need is in ‘2 pcb’s in one stick’. In short, connect together all of the VCC, GND, and signal lines (up, down, home, jab, short, etc.). That’s it. everything else is just getting kinky with how the cables come out of the box (two cords, DPDT, Imp, RJ-45)
As for ‘stopping’ one of the boards, no. All boards must be powered and active at the same time.
Golden Rules for dual PCB’s:
If it’s more cost effective to order from me, I’m happy to sell them to you. I should be able to fit about 5 cords per $13 shipping box.
At first guess, I’d say its a wiring problem. Disconnect all of the wires going to the screw terminals and try the board by itself on your PC. If it works, great. If not, hit up the troubleshooting guide linked in the first post. Once the board is working standalone, SLOWLY begin adding buttons and stick, doublechecking against the pinout on the included welcome sheet, and testing the buttons as you go in the control panel applet. Testing on a PS3 should happen ONLY after it works 100% on a PC.
What’s defined as “working”? When plugging in the board after taking out all the wires, I no longer get errors…but…well, that’s about it. 
I received my 3 MC Cthulhu some days ago and assembled them all. Soldered a USB cable into one of them, plugged the Cthulhu, heard that Windows recognised it, had a go at testing the buttons. Silly me then did the stupid mistake to connect VCC and GND (in fact, while testing, I had one side of a cable to GND and the other one was running from terminal to terminal. Of course, I was bound to hit the VCC terminal 
).
After that, the board was not recognised at all. Unplugging/replugging the USB cable didn’t do anything.
Panic ! Did it I really fry my board ? It seemed so.
I couldn’t believe the board was so fragile (PCBs from madcatz or MS are more tolerant, I regularly short VCC and GND when hacking controllers …). Then I did some search on the forums (keywords “fried” “cthulhu”) and I came up with the troubleshooting procedure from Toodles. I didn’t apply it word for word but when I checked the diodes voltage, I saw that one of them let 4.XX V between its pins. Had one glass diode (salvaged from a TV !) in my cupboards, used it to replace the dead one, and lo and behold, the MC Chthulhu was as new !
So thank you Toodles for designing a simple board, this considerable simplifies fixing for us users in case of problems (problems that erm … we users usually create :bgrin: )