I agree that it does sound like the button. There’s an easy way to determine a if its the wires and buttons or the Cthulhu: Swap the wires between your Strong and Fierce buttons, go into training mode, and see if the same sort of display on the input display comes up. If the dropped input happens when holding down the new button, you know its the Cthulhu, otherwise its just a button that needs replaced.
thanks alot toodles. i actually havent even got the cthulhu from u yet. haha
i just though i’d ask u incase my TE is wack so i can exchange it before i go through the
trouble of installing the cthulhu then realizing my TE is wacked.
also i realized the same thing happens to THROW command.
1 out of 10 it shows up as
(LP+LK)
(LK)
it looks like ryu is doing a kara throw, but that wont matter cuz throws comes out immediately anyways.
THANKS i’ll try it and let u know.
Cheers Toodles, additional payment sent.
Could you let me know once you have sent out the box of goodies mate, thanks 
toodles, got a few problems/question.
so I wired up the MC dual/360 TE/imp RJ45 setup. MC as primary. works on ps3, and 360 as far as I can tell. (tested the 360 on pc). wired up the ps cord, works but I did get a controller not connected once. don’t know if that’s anything. but for the most part, it works. Since the ps2 and 360/ps3 works, I assume that my wiring is correct.
problem:
- wired up the xbox1. did not work. as far I as know, the signal goes through because I tested it with a multimeter continuity test.
- use innovation converter for DC, did not work.
- wired up the sanwa flash, works for usb, did not work for ps2. the read out is 3.3V. I did what you said, I wired the ground, VCC, and D+,D- from rj45 to imp, from imp to mc (to the usb port on the MC) the VCC is wired to the first V column. from MC (point taken from unlabeled VCC as per your instruction) to sanwa flash. I tested the read out from all the VCC when I plugged in the ps2 and all the readings were 3.3 (the label 5v+, unlabeled, v column, and usb portion of MC).
any ideas?
- Make sure to hold Left when plugging into for Xbox mode. There isn’t any Xbox1 autodetection yet.
- Might be a problem with the PSX wiring, same thing that caused the ‘disconnected’ error, or it might be a different model of converter. I know myself and Mixah successfull use ours, but I’ve had one report of an Innovation not working; there might be different models of the Innovation that I’m not aware of.
- That’s correct. VCC will be the voltage of whatever system it’s connected to; 5v on USB systems, and 3.3v for PSX (minus a 0.2v drop from the diode). It sounds like its wired up properly, but doesn’t like to run at 3.3v. Grab a DC-DC board like this:
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8290
and connect it between the MC cthulhu and the flash to kick up the voltage to the flash to always be 5v
oh yeah! just received my cthulhu’s today.
i’m going to mod my stick tonight or tomorrow.
thanx toodles your the best
Just a warning before others fall victim to laziness: You MUST MUST MUST verify the pinout of your console cables before soldering them to the board! Even if you buy cables from me, the small inside wires won’t match the colors listed in the Instructable. You MUST verify the color wire going to each pin before soldering it to the board.
^^What’s the easiest way to do this?
thanks for all the help toodles, i’ve assembled my MC cthulhu and i’m now dual modding it with a mad catz retro stick pcb, i’m following your diagram on the welcome doc, the only questions i have are:
A) when i connect the wires from the mad catz to the cthulhu i don’t need to run wires to the buttons everything will run through the cthulhu. the ground & VCC from the madcatz pcb will connect through these holes, and which ground do i use, the big thick one or the thinner one?
B) also i’m going to use a dpdt On - On rocker switch ( that matches my arcade stick box nicely) i only need to splice the wires for D+ and D- before they go to the RJ45 jack and then connect the single D+ & D- from the rocker to the jack?
this is what i have read through this and the 2 pcb in 1 stick thread as well as a few, i just want to make sure before i solder the wires to the cthulhu ( i like to make clean connections with no messy spots or wires hanging) thanks for the help with everything else.
Hey Toodles, I wanted to say thanks for the boards. I did mod a 360 TE with it and it seems to work perfectly (didn’t test the 360 side thoroughly). It works perfectly only PS3 and my Mac recognizes it as SF IV stick when I hold guide (the Imp rocks).
On the second 360 TE I’m modding, I’m doing the same thing except making 360 TE the default PCB and the Cthulhu the secondary and for some reason neither are being recognized. I did the same wiring except swapping the D+ and D- on the Imp. I thought that was all I had to do, but neither is being recognized. Before I do a complete rewiring, I wanted to see your thoughts. Thanks for everything.
EDIT: Just to let you know the things I checked. I checked that the D+ and D- were wired correctly. I checked that the VCC and grounds were connected to all three boards. Lastly I checked to make sure the USB wire was securely soldered.
~Paik
Had a question has anybody tested out when dual modding a Xbox 360 Stick if the Headphone Jack works with the PS3 or not…?
Strange thing just happened:
I hooked up a PS3 Cthulhu with a Mad Catz wired pad last night and seemed to be working fine.
When testing it last night through my PC’s controller diagnostics program, it was recognising the PS3 PCB as a Cthulhu, but testing it again this morning it is now only being recognised as a Sega High Grade PCB.
Any idea why? And is this going to cause a problem?
woot, got it to work and even installed the DPDT rocker switch, both boards work on my computer through one usb cable i love this forum
Sorry for the delay; I had a bunch of big orders come in that are keeping me quite busy.
The easiest way is with a multimeter. One probe goes on the end of one of the wires, and the other probe touches the pins inside the gamecube cable. With the multimeter set to check resistance, the resistance will show almost zero when the wire is connected to the pin.
The ‘swapping the D+ and D-’ could be taken a couple of different ways. Any wire that is a D+ or D- will always be a D+ or D-. You just connect the D+ from the board you want to be primary to ‘1 D+’ and the D- from the primary board to ‘1 D-’.
The very first thing to do is hop over the Imp thread; I put up a long post (linked in the first post of the Imp thread) for troubleshooting the Imp with a multimeter from top to bottom.
Nope.
Not a problem; there’s a button combination that makes it imitate a VSHG. If you had a bunch of buttons held down, you probably just triggered it. It doesn’t affect how the board runs at all.
Thx Toodles, I received my parts today.
Do you accept discount for bulk sale?Im located in Australia.Cheers
Yup, but shipping will be killer. Send me an email.
Hey Toodles, I’ll hop over there. When I meant swapped I didn’t meant the d+ and d-, I mean 1d+ with 2d+ and similarly with 1d- with 2d-. I’m sure it’s just a dumb oversight on my part. After looking over it so many times, I’m sure I am just not focusing. I’ll post over there if I continue to have problems.
~Paik
just paypaled you Toodles. Thanks!
BTW…I’m getting the assembled MC cthulhu, may i get it without the USB jack?
I’ll see what I can do. Should be doable.
toodles is it better to get the MC Cthulhu board for the extra 5 bucks? and the total i would have to paypal you is $60 for mc cthulhu,imp board, and shipping correct? im gonna try to duel mod my se or te stick hopefully i be able to do it correctly lol.