D3v you make some nice stuff! 
Makes my stuff look total noob sauce. If I make a request could you make me one 
would love my stick to look real clean, rather then like a photoshop wanna be made it haha
Any love for the TKD characters?
The “JAE_HOON” sucks, I know. It’s just a start, not sure if I want the name in there at all . . .
And yes, the joystick IS his crotch. So?
Zenbater i might make the name a bit smaller and moved down and to the left a little
must…resist…making…Asian…penis…jokes…
Lastscions just posted the akuma/oni artwork on deviantart and I had to make a template out of it!
For a .pdn(Paint.net) file or bigger version of the JPG file just pm me.
Lol at where the stick is located.
So I’ve started working on some custom art for my new fightstick, but as I’ve never done this before I’m curious what the ideal resolution for your images so that you get a high quality print out of it? I know it needs to be pretty high, but how high exactly? I don’t went to spend a bunch of time and money doing this and end up with some half-assed quality art.
are these template made yourselves are these made by clipping out images and arranging them with a few PS effects?
Anyone doing full renders like me from scratch? im really interested in those if their are any guys. Ive been using PS for about 10+ years now but only recently have i been using the wacom tablet and it really takes it to the next level.
Does B15 do his own artwork? or does he get pay commission work?
300pdi (“per inch” not cm) is the ideal resolution, most places prefer CMYK renders but some laser printers will accept RGB renders because their rip prefers it for some bizarre reason. I did a large outdoor print job for work years ago and they wanted RGB :S
In photoshop RBG gives your only a screen representation of the artwork and RBG is illuminated and vibrant which is not a true refection of the printed work. Thus i work in CMYK. Alot of effects are blanked out in PS using CMYK because the more advanced effects are used for onscreen only in RGB mode.
You will find printed special effects will come out dull or a duller version on the RBG verison, in some cases depending on colour it will look mudy and washed out.
Perhaps I’m in way over my head here, but I don’t really know what most of that means. >_>
I rarely ever use my own, since it takes me forever and a day to actually finish my own shizz, let alone put it on a stick…
That said:
i like that one much more than your other ones TBH D3V very nice. Chuu will flip out when he sees that one 
A printer or prinshop use a 4 colour Process. C/m/y/k - Cyan/Magenta/Yellow/Black
This is the bread and butter for printing. RGB is only screen colours and is not a true representation of colour when printed as its illuminated pixels on an LCD.
300DPI is 300 Dots Per Inch. So a LCD is 72/96 dpi and is considered low res in the printing realm. 300dpi ensures a much cleaner and less lossy print. When your finding images to use for your templates try and find images like 1080p as its the best your going to find to get anything decent out of it when printed, its dependent on the size though.
This is why i render my own images. So i can guarantee the best possible result when printed. And i control the size and resolution. Sometimes i like to use 600dpi.
300DPI (or 300PPI) means exactly that. In a single square inch of material, there will be 300x300 (or 90,000) individual dots or pixels filling that square inch up. This means that the art will be in high-res. Normally, images are only set at 72DPI. The difference between 72 and 300 is like the difference between SDTV and HDTV. A bit of fightstick art at 300DPI is usually around 4200x2550 pixels in size, bring that down to 72 DPI and the images shrinks to 1008x612 pixels in size.
Well I do at least know what CMYK and RGB mean, however I don’t know much about switching between them in photoshop.
As for DPI though, how exactly does one check if an image has good DPI?
It should be in the images properties when you right click on it.
Ah, I see. Looks like most of the images I’ve been using are 72 dpi. Damn.
print a 300pdi and a 72 pdi image out and see the difference. D3V comparison was a better explanation
In photoshop, go to image size, in their turn off resample. If its left on it will only make the image larger and photoshop will cheat in pixels but it will look terrible.
Change the res to 300pdi, you will see the actual size of the image shink in print size.
eg it would have been 15cm at 72pdi, but now might be 4cm at 300pdi. Thats gives you an accurate sizing to the final print size of the image chosen at print. So find the largest possible images from the web to use on your artwork.
Sorry if my explanation is confusing im not the best at wording it without showing someone.
as a last resort 200dpi is acceptable on most laser printers as its not a proper pre-press it will be hard to spot the difference without using a loop to see the dots. For me i would be using a nice matte stock maybe with a satin finish. Gloss will only ad extra shine that the plexi already will give.
So basically I’m not screwed just because the image starts at 72 dpi? A lot of my images are actually pretty massive, so hopefully they’ll still work out for me.
Edit: Assuming I didn’t screw up what I was supposed to do it looks like it’s not negatively impacting my images, yay.
Just resize them to 300dpi.
exactly,
1080P is exactly 67.73cm wide and 38.1cm high at 72pdi
1080P resampled to 300 pdi is 16.26cm wide and 9.14cm high.
this does not alter the image just changes the DPI in proportion.
Just to be sure, I just have make sure it’s set to 300 pixel/inch under Resolution, correct?