I just realized that this would be just about perfect for the K.O. Fighting Stick that a friends dumped on me. Now to figure out how to squeeze a JLF in there.
- insert post of wanting to sign up for the beta run or be a tester or something *
GG, sir.
Brilliant stuff, Phreak. I’ll absolutely be buying one when you have your first run.
I have one of those, too. I really want to mod with Sanwa. I kinda dig its shape. There is a PCB is soldered onto the buttons, but I don’t think that PCB is even necessary. If not, it’s packing a super-compact PS3/PS2 PCB in there.
In fact, I might just gut the awesome PS2/USB hybrid cord with the PCB and dual mod with 360 for a slick PS2/PS3/360 stick.
I hope you guys will be selling this soon! I need to upgrade some parts for my stick! 
Lol sounds like up upgrading PC addiction…Just bought Corsair 650D 2 days ago…
Quick question does the Shaft itself still spin?? cuz if not this would be ideal for LED Balltop mods and u can sign me up for 2 
I think it will still spin since the disconnect pattern use is round, the shaft is round, and the part that remains stock the pivot is circular so there still plenty of areas where spin is allowed.
@Phr34k
Ever consider selling the top half of the shaft alone. You know so you can have multiple tops ready to switch in and out without having to unscrew?
I believe it does since it uses the stock pivot of the JLF.
I got more and more people interested here, i can’t wait to hear some news 
This is correct, the shaft ultimately still spins. Part of the reason I was trying to drum up an idea for wireless light transfer through it but I just haven’t the time to develop that.
Yes, actually that was one of my first thoughts with this was the ability to buy the top half by itself for reduced price (as a backup, quick change for tops, etc.). Ultimately the top portion will be more expensive than the bottom portion, but I won’t know details for sure until I hear from the fab house.
Working on it now, my contact has been overseas for the past week on work. He’s finished the required files for quote and I should have them Sunday. A quote should be attained next week with a beta run shortly after. I’ll keep this thread updated when all that jazz happens.
I am still hype for this. News cannot come quick enough.
Can’t wait for this. going to make transporting sticks tooo much easier.
So excited!!!
Maybe a fiber optic cable going though the hallow shaft.
Only sticks I seen that have non-rotating shafts was the LSX-57, the JFJ, the modified LS-40s or LS-50s that the Saturn and Dreamcast Virtual-On twin sticks have and other Trigger button joysticks have. The pivot is designed with tabs that prevent the shaft from turning, and the shaft is keyed to the pivot’s opening.
Another solution would be a rotating electric connectors, which allows 360 degrees of continuous rotation with out wires twisting. As of now they are used in industrial applications where a rotating circuit would exist like in a wind mill with electronics in each of the wind mills blades. Unfortunately for now unless a retailer decides to bulk order these connectors, the average price from current suppliers are $65 and up.
There’s other things I’ve kicked around that are akin to fiber optic but not nearly as crazy expensive.Then there’s something else entirely that may come to fruition and is way more easily accomplished. All things that’ll have to take a back seat though…at least until probably Q4 of this year, so if someone else comes up with a really killer option for the Link on their own in the meantime I’m all for it.
Purplearms’ suggested a slip ring a long time ago, and it’s definitely something to look in to in general, but it still doesn’t overcome the two piece design. That is, of course if the light source is situated inside of the balltop. Slip rings can be really cheap though, he’s linked me to a few that are well under 10 bucks a piece in low volumes.
Possible, but not a good solution. Fiber optic is very inefficient when it comes to transmission of luminous intensity, and therefore requires an overly bright light source. There just isn’t enough current provided by USB to power a superbright LED (like a 1A luxeon rebel, which get VERY hot and require a heat sink). It has to be focused with a lens into one end of the fiber optic, then scattered with a wide angle lens on the other end.
Anyone with a E46 BMW who’s tried 1st generation retrofit Angel Eyes knows what i’m talking about 
So even if there was enough power, there is a whole set of new challenges to overcome (how to mount LED and lens to a spinning / moving shaft), which makes the slip ring challenge with the LED seem like a much easier problem to tackle.
This guy (now out of business after running away with people’s money) had an interesting idea using a 3.5mm audio jack…
http://retroblast.arcadecontrols.com/reviews/slik_lighted.html
But the ultimate goal would be to have a RGB led inside the top that can be controlled by a PWM device like sparky, This would require 4 electrical connections (3.5mm jack only provides 2). There are 4 circuit slip rings, but those are meant to solve twisting forces, not so much horizontal and lateral movements
Just found this:
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=382
groovygamegear has good stuff… this slip ring could work…
Hmm. I have very weak hands because of my Duchenne’s MD and I can tell the difference between a solid steel, hallow steel and hallow titanium shaft. I use mainly a hallow titanium shaft (from Paradise Arcade) for my shoto characters and a hollow steel for my charge characters. I know the hollowness isn’t made for weight reduction and is mainly for lighted applications. However. With my weak hands, they are VERY sensitive to how weight can effect my JLF. Such as my toggleme aluminum bats I use in combination with other parts I’ve designed. If you think I would make a good candidate for a beta tester I would love to pay for one of your beta versions to see what types of options it could open up for me as far as what kinds of effects it is having on my JLF. I know your adapter is mainly for travel reasons but it may have other attributes you might accidentally run into. I also like the ergonomic feature of the curved part creating a place for your fingers to be placed with say a no homo type grip. The aluminum bat tops give me a sensation that a force is “driving” my stick for me. Kind of like the inertia of the stick is giving me an added advantage in order to efficiently move my stick in the directions I need without almost any effort at all. I use only a LS-33 spring without any added springs. I’ve recently switched to 20gm force Zippy micro switches modded to rid them of the extreme play they have when stock. I use a special actuator I designed to reduce friction on gates and a bottom weight that causes my stick to have a gyroscopic attribute added to the forces I’ve described in the function of my JLF. I’ve thought of bringing my stick to surface but it’s design is not yet ready to present. Anyhow. Your part would be a fantastic addition to my JLF experimentation. Let me know if you have any availability. I don’t do anything but read about mods, mod stuff and play games all day because my disability binds me to both my motorized wheelchair and my home so I don’t get out much.