Yeah, D-Lite hasn’t been in the supergun-making business for years (and AFAIK, won’t get back to making anything after his controversial disappearance) but maybe he or someone else has an extra one to sell. They were reputed to be reliable machines.
As for an additional converter from RGB to VGA, the XRGB’s pure line-doubling (B1 mode) has been tested to have no lag. If you actually want to upscale the resolution, then I haven’t heard of any device that will do this without lagging, not even professional-level equipment. Even the XRGB’s upscaling (B0 mode) was tested to have 2 frames of lag and most others are higher than that.
I have a question. I was wondering where was a reliable place was to get a small power supply. Im thinking of consolizing a MVS some time and would like to use a compact arcade power supply.
I remember seeing someone building a supergun into a HRAP and selling it on the trading outlet. Something that small.
It looks like the XRGB is discontinued, but this post at NEO empire indicates that the VGA scan converters are lagless. JAMMA connections already have separate H and V synch, so the LM1881 circuit he describes is unnecessary.
Every scan converter has lag, and those that don’t have detectable lag are few and far between.
JAMMA video sync has always been composite sync. Some situations require you to strip composite sync from a composite video line (such is the case when running Playstation systems on RGB monitors), but JAMMA most certainly does not have separate H/V sync. This is not to be confused with the JVS standard that some arcade cabinets use now days.
-ud
FWIW, this guy in Germany sells superguns and NTSC converters. Not necessarily the least expensive way to go, and you’d have to do a little wiring to support 6-button games through the DB-15s.
I didn’t think it through entirely. The notion of lag is a bit fuzzy since a line-doubler will, ipso facto, send eveything twice, and, since the scan speeds are different, lag will be affected by screen position. The most generous sensible notion of lag (average time to first display) would give 1/60,000 second or so for the theoretical limit. The least generous (maximum time to second display) has a theoretical limit around 1/10,000. (The 1/30,000 I came up with is based on something in-between those two.)
If you are planning on consolizing an MVS system that is 1 or 2 slot you only need a +5v@3A power supply. A simple wall PSU is fine. You do not need the +12v line since that only drives the amp but +5v powers the pre-amp circuits so you get line level sound output.
You can also run the 4 and 6 slot with only +5v as well but of course they need more juice. For a 4 slot you need a 6A PSU and 8-9A for the 6 slot.
For the 6 slot I would spread the +5v connection to help take heat away from a single outlet on the board.
General advice:
If you’re planning on using this at your own home, invest in a low-res rgb monitor as someone has already mentioned. It’s totally worth it. Also, I highly recommend Toodles FWG thingys over the dsub15/neo controller ports.
I also have a question about the wire gauge. Is it risky to use something thinner, particularly with the power/ground wires? How much flexibility do we comfortably have here, considering these power supplies are putting out 5 - 15A?
Darkmatter: what do you mean by this? “For the 6 slot I would spread the +5v connection to help take heat away from a single outlet on the board”
Aww, you didn’t consolize an ‘A’ board? That’s how I’ve always wanted to do it, and as long as you use an external power brick, there should be plenty of room.
Thanks much, glad you like them. There’s been a lot of requests lately for button remapping, so hopefully I can make them better in the near future; just wanted you to know its on the todo list.
6 slots pull a crazy amount of juice. There’s at least one auxillary connector for +5v power and ground. It’s use can be optional on 4 slots and lower, but its VERY VERY recommended you take advantage of that aux connector for 6 slots. It’s a weird 2 pin molex looking connector on the board, I can dig up pictures if needed.
I just finished building my SuperGun and it was a fantastic experience. I consider myself a bit above the “average bear” when it comes to building and tinkering so I had no problems just delving in and going based off of what I learned rehabing my Neo Cab and looking around on the net for some various wiring schematics. In the end, it was a much more enjoyable process than simply going out and buying one. I’m still working on the joysticks (one reason I joined this site… inspiration) but the supergun booted the first time and seems to work well. To make it better… I built it into a .50 caliber military ammo case. I used a JROK encoder and have the component and composite video connections wired up for use. I figured that those would be the most common video ports to use for me. In the end I spent a good $250 for the parts and such but I ended up with an awesome SuperGun in the end. In fact, I am going to build another one next christmas into a coffee table so that the joysticks, board, etc are all in the table. It’s going to be sweet!
Does anyone here have experience “consolizing” an Atomiswave console?
I just recently purchased Hokuto No Ken and the Atomiswave console… I am wondering if I should try and build a supergun or attempt to consolize the system.
I actually own 2 of these exact same PSUs: One to replace in my HF cab months ago and a new one specifically for this project. I tried using both and still got the same results even though they both work in the HF cab just fine.
(NOTE: Listing every step I took as to make aware of what I’ve tried)
Next I took an old 3 prong PC power cable and stripped it,crimped on some forked terminals then wired them up to the PSU as GREEN = GROUND, BLACK =AC1, and WHITE = AC2. Then I wired in the JAMMA harness as per it’s pin out sheet. YELLOW = 12V+, RED = 5V+, and BLACK = GROUND. I checked everything with my multimeter and the readings were fine around 5.02 and 12.6. Closest I could get it.
But,when I hooked up my ST board to test it…black screen. The fan on the CPS2 board was running normally as if it was working. But,nothing on screen. I got my multimeter back out to check the readings again. This time they were around 4.76 and 11.83. I know it’s normally for a PSU to drop a bit under a load,but even when I would turn the knob to give it more juice it would still hang around those exact same numbers. I tried both PSUs I own and even crimped a new cable and was still getting the same results.
Should I try a different PSU or is there something else I could do? I’ve even swapped out the PSUs in 2 other cabs I own and they work flawlessly.
This is normal. do not measure V when the PCB is plugged in jamma.
PCB is dead
or you use thin wires (Chinna jamma harness?)
properly connects
6-8x AWG22 GND
4x AWG22 +5V
2x AWG22 +12V
1x AWG 22 -5V
You can use a single cable
AWG16 for GND & +5V
AWG 18 +12 & -5V
Yeah, too many fscking video standards.
