Well, hopefully you guys can help me. I have an Atomiswave on the way with HnK and RumbleFish2. I now understand that, in order to run this on my lcd, I need a supergun:confused:
Therefore, in authentic noob fashion, I have a few questions:
Is there a way to use custom sticks like the ones on this forum?
Will I be able to use them with my 360 as well?
I am new to this, so I want to know how difficult it is to make a supergun?
On an unrelated topic, does a consolized Atomiswave, MVS, etc, need a supergun? Lot a questions, but I am thankful for any help:sweat:
Iāll take a stab at your questions, from one noob to another.
1/2. Yes, you can use customs, but youāll have to wire each button into the Jamma harness (and Kick Harness for games with more than 3 buttons). However, you could make a project box that converts your 360/ps3/dc/neo-geo/whatever sticks into something the Supergun can recognize.
Seems really easy honestly. Just need a power supply, the appropriate video encoder, a jamma harness, kick harness, some buttons and sticks. I donāt know much about Atomiswave, but for that you might need some extra audio related stuff that I wonāt need, bc CPS-2 already has a lot of that done for me.
Q. As for a consolized Atomiswave/NG-- those donāt need a Supergun, bc thatās the definition of one. :]
In this case my supergun would be different from the others because the pcb will actually go inside the casing of the supergun instead of sitting on the outside.
The controller ports are on the side so they donāt hang down in front of the screen during gameplay.
Sounds like it could turn out neat, but here are some considerations:
Most PCBās, as well as the power supply, are designed to be inside of a big cabinet, not a small suffocating box. This could cause problems (component stress/fire hazard) for your power supply and some PCBās which may generate a significant amount of heat. My recommendation is have sizable vents on the back and/or sides and maybe a small 12V PC fan to get the air moving across everything.
Depending on your game preference, you may want to run your monitor vertically. Games like Pacman, Contra, and a grip of flying shooters run vertically, requiring you to rotate your normally horizontal monitor to a vertical (tall) position. If this is an option you wish to retain, maybe keep the size of your supergun box the dimensions of the side of your monitor rather than the top of your monitor.
Good idea on the wires hanging off the side rather than in front of the screen :tup:
-ud
Can you elaborate on this a bit more? I think I might be running into a problem within this area. All but one of my JAMMA setups will not correctly work with a particular PCB. It is a multigame CPS2 board for reference. What happens is that the game constantly resets itself without any user input.
Let me know if Iām way off on this and Iāll search elsewhere for an answer.
Great ideas on the adjustable 5v regulator and ventilation.
However, I am never putting this heavy thing into tate mode. lol.
I have a couple of other smaller RGB monitors along with this one. If I ever want to play some vertical game I should be able to hook it up to them and set them on the floor beside the cabinet.
One great thing about RGB monitors is that they usually support looped input (RGB out) and you can have something hooked up to both of them at once. When you do this there is usually a switch between 75 ohms mode and High mode. High mode will increase the brightness of the video signal to compensate for the dimmer picture you usually get when splitting video signals between two sources.
So in this case Iāll just run wires from the big monitor to the little one, and when I play a vertical game Iāll turn the big one off and the little one on.
To everyone that is thinking of building a supergun I encourage them to have a look around their community and see if they can find a monitor that can support 15khz RGB video. These monitors usually have excellent picture quality, and a variety of adjustments like horiztonal/vertical size and placement. This is useful to prevent overscan from cutting off part of the picture. The best part is they are usually found very cheaply on craigslist or ebay. I got my big monitor from the University of KY surplus auction for the equivalent of $15. I got a couple of other ones for free just by having a look around older computer parts dealers.
Of course, if you choose to build a supergun with RGB out it would still be a good idea to also include some kind of video encoder to support Composite, S-video, and component video just to be sure that the supergun is still compatible with the widest range of displays.
no, seems that this is an other issue. Perhaps go to BYOAC Forum or Jamma+. Perhaps thereāre some guys who can help.
In general take a look at shorted pins and/or track damage at the solder side. Check all sockets and press the ICs in the sockets. This is a good startā¦
I too have had problems with that multi cps2 board. like the double normal moves in XvsSF donāt work with wolverine and Storm (mp and mk together for drill claw), pressing the coin button repeatively slows the game down to a crawl (like the old slo mo button on pads and sticks back in the day), even slow mo when the coin button isnāt being pressed repeatively.
but I havenāt had a problem with it resettingā¦ yet. IMO we got what we paid for. a hacked cps2 board with tons of games on it for 200 bucks or so. But at some compromise to the games themselves.
ShinjiGohan: I never had that problem. When the board worked at all, all games functioned the way they should as far as I could tell. No slowdown or any such strangeness. Iād rather not derail this thread with this discussion, though. Thereās lots of great info in here already, so Iād rather get back to the topic at hand.
My questionā¦I have an edge connector for my existing supergun that by design of the box itself where the connector is built into the connection to the CPS2 A board does not sit flush. Itās not an issue for any of my other JAMMA games, but I am using the device mainly for CPS2 games so this is a potential problem for me. How hard would it be to configure something to basically extend the edge connection so that Iām not forced to have to have the thing sit flush against my A board? Is it as simple as getting one of these? Or should I need to get a fingerboard wired up to a female edge connector? Iāll probably need to get some button rewiring going as well, so whichever option you guys feel might work better would work for me.
Was curious if this is something anyone else has done before.
Yeah, you could get one of those extenders from jammaboards.com. That is all it is, a fingerboard wired to a female edge connector. If you want to skip the wiring, youāll get about 1" extension just by soldering a female edge connector directly to a JAMMA fingerboard.
-ud
Iām in the process of procuring items to build my first Supergun, I have a JAMMA harness and a CPS-1 Kick Harness on the way, and I have a SF2: Hyper Fighting board just waiting for me play. I already have a few ATX PSUs lying around, so a power source isnāt much of a concern, all I really have to do is get an RGB -> NTSC encoder, build the attenuation circuit for the audio, and make my controllers.
I plan on basing my attenuation circuit on this site, seems excessive but I like soldering. I could probably build the video encoder circuit as well, but I really donāt feel like just having composite out, so Iām going to go with a JROK.
EDIT: After looking, I donāt think itād be necessary to have a double transformer setup as I plan on only playing mono games.
well it might be possible if you made an additional cable for the joystick/gamepad thats soldered directly to the points on the pcb (will be quite bulky so its not as feesable for a gamepad) and wire that all together to a DB15 or DB25 (depending on your supergun setup) and it might work, but that depends on each person modding their own personal controller to match the needs of the supergun that theyād be working with.
Between the Revolver and Bazooka, are there any differences besides the fan? The site (multimods) mentions that the Bazooka has an internal power supplyā¦is that essential? I also noticed that the Bazooka appears to have some additional wires attached, Iām guessing thatās the jamma kick harness? (I apologize for the noobish questionsā¦iām new to all of this). Assuming I went with the Bazooka, would using an additional converter for RGB to VGA/DVI introduce lag into the equation (planning to setup the supergun with an Asus monitor).
What Iām basically looking to do is purchase a supergun with preferably RGB output (component will suffice also) that utilizes db 15 pin connection. I plan to modify 2 sticks (aka pay someone) that will have db15 connectors for usage on the supergun.
Any recommendations on which supergun would be the best and least hassle to setup would be greatly appreciated.
It looks like:
The Bazooka has a different power supply - one that also provides -5 volts. (This might be an unintentional omission on the part of multimods.) I donāt know which JAMMA games require the -5V connection, but apparently the MK series does, while CPS and Tekken do not.
Having an integrated power supply is nice because itās one less cable to make salad with, and one less box to lug around, or forget somewhere. The case fan on the Bazooka is most probably there to keep the power supply happy, since nothing else on a supergun should produce much heat.
According to the site, both the Bazooka and Revolver have CPS kick harnesses.
To get where you want, the Bazooka and Revolver will be easier than the the Mini.
Iāve been looking into the upscaler lag issue since we exchanged PMs about this, and donāt have any solid answers.