The IL FAQ/Information thread *Happ now is too grimey to even use Cherry switches*

I tried the actuator that was raised slightly and I got varying results. These were on old sticks of course. I believe I used one that was a mm more than stock and one that was 2 mm more. I tried them on multiple sticks with varying results. Most were not satisfactory. Some very stiff.

On a second note I had the witdh of the actuator made smaller based on recomendations from some of your post and of another forum. Corners are very good now. Only bad things is when I play on another 360 I notice the corners are different wich affects play slightly.

That piece you are holding is the piece that goldnnz made altogether Im think. Also on the other side of it(bottom) where it sits on the top of the housing for the pcb there can be grindage too. From what I understand he made that piece to be as smooth as possible as a lot of the grindage/unsmoothness comes from there as well. I have tried lubing this area and get varying results. Sometimes very loose or with good smooth results. Ive had that same prob with some springs digging in. Maybe try grinding down the edge of the spring so it doesnt dig in?

you can calibrate led

if engage is too fast
bend to back
http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/6936/p36008hd3.th.jpghttp://img179.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif
if engage is late
bend to center
http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/1873/p36007ma8.th.jpghttp://img179.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif

Yo does anyone know if Tornado Terry actually still makes these as individual sticks? Or if I can get something like these anywhere? I saw one on eBay from TTs but it was some kind of Pac-Man 4-way only one with clearly a smaller ball on top.

Kowal, how was this one done?

[media=youtube]rfRZM6fjh4Y[/media]

I’d really like one of these.

ediiiiiiiiiit--------

http://www.lizardlickamusements.com/pages/joysticks.shtml

The 4th stick on this page, the balltop by wico, that’s the same stick pictured at the top of this page, right? Can I retrofit that shaft into my p360?

it is china knockoff but baltop fit on P360
orginal
http://www.arcadeshop.de/Control-Parts-35-Balltop-black-Wico_542.html

it is custom
http://kowal.itcom.pl/foto/P360-11.jpg

So I ended up getting some Wico balltop shafts off eBay, and I have to say using the 3.5" on my MAS stick (p360) is way better than I had hoped. The range of movement is less, and you only have to move it half as far to get it to activate feels like. So far, this is the only stick I’ve been able to use for older KOFs (up through 2k2) and actually be able to do hyperhops and motions consistently and comfortably. I recommend anyone who has a Happ stick to try it.

Ok, do not hate me, but I have raised a little money, and, here I go again…I have read over 100 complains of the x-arcade and over 100 praises for it, what should I trust…I know it uses knockoffs, but, I took an IL EU joystick, and it was unusable due to the wrong down diagonals.I`ve been thinking of getting the USB X-arcade Tankstick…To play Street Fighter II, King of Fighters and Mortal Kombat on MAME and Kaillera.I had a HRAP 3, fantastick, but I changed a few Sanwa/Seimitsu sticks, perfect for beat-em-up, but not my stick for playing fighter on P2 side…If I took the Tankstick, get 2 Perfect 360 sticks and real HAPP buttons, maybe…I even put a EU stick in the HRAP3, not very good…Some people say get MAS, others claim to stay out of them…I have only a PC with USB, I have no desire for console stuff.

^ ^ ^ The people who praise it are just really excited to have an arcade stick; honestly, for casual play from people who don’t know any better, it’s probably great fun. The people who condemn it are mainly the hardcore players. Skilled fighting game players demand more out of their controllers than almost any other genre out there. I’m sure it’s just fine for a rousing, nostalgic game of Pac-Man, but as soon as you start trying to do something that interests us, like [ j.hk, cr.mk xx super fb ], you are going to want to throw that thing against a wall and then in a bonfire.

As far as I know, the X-Arcade case is okay. The reason nobody likes them around here is that the price to get one is ridiculous considering we’d be replacing its parts and guts anyway. You can order a custom-built case from some of the builders here that will be cheaper and much nicer, or just get the MAS.

For the record, apparently both the PC MAS and the X-Arcade will have input lag right out of the box because their PCB’s are steaming trash. You’ll either have to padhack a different USB controller, or buy a PS1/PS2 arcade stick and use an adapter to convert to PC USB.

I wish I could help you out by making a recommendation on which stick is right for you, but I’m having some trouble understanding what you’ve actually tried. I understood that you’ve used a…

  • IL Eurostick
  • Sanwa stick
  • Seimitsu stick
  • Fanta (Korean) stick
    And you didn’t like any of them? The first thing I wanted to say was… have you considered using a pad?! :rofl:

Probably worth clarifying a few things anyway though.

No stick will immediately turn you into an execution god. If you didn’t take the time (weeks) to get used to a (new) arcade stick, well there’s your problem right there. Stick with it (whoops bad pun) and it will pay off in leaps and bounds.

The IL Eurostick is not considered tops with its default microswitches. I’ve never heard about problems with corners not working or anything, but the Eurostick is really only loved for being the basis of the original (good) Happ Competition joysticks. Happ would replace the microswitches with superior Cherry-brand ones and re-sell them in America. They don’t do this anymore though, basically creating the entire stick by themselves now, so the new Happ Competitions aren’t considered tops anymore either. Note about both, the stick’s motion should feel round, so there’s nothing guiding you as to where the diagonals should be: you need to remember by feel where they are. Maybe you just don’t like American sticks. Harder springs, big throws, big engages.

Some people just hate Japanese sticks on the whole so they just may not be for you. Note that you can replace the square restrictor gate with an octagonal one, but the short throw and engage, and softness of spring will not change. The usual complaint is it feels like a cheap little toy, but the real advantages are that it’s really easy to feel where you are and they’re actually very precise.

Regarding the Fanta: unless you specifically specially ordered the right kind from Korea, I guarantee it was an inferior model. It would not be indicative of the quality of performance of a good, proper Fanta, even though it’s still probably a decent indicator of the idea–if not the feel–you can expect from Korean sticks in general. Some people like 'em, some people don’t. They use rubber instead of springs and really can’t be compared to any other joysticks in the world.

As for buttons, if you’re not happy with either Happ Competitions or regular Sanwas, arcade sticks simply just were not meant for you. Seriously.

Lastly–unrelated but I couldn’t help myself–do yourself a favour and check out GGPO or 2DF. The emulators they use should run fighting games (at least Capcom ones) much better than MAME, and the connection in netplay is strikingly better than Kaillera, even P2P.

Ok, let me explain.I tried all possible SANWAs with both 4 and 8 way restrictor, I simply cannot play Street Fighter on player 2 side with them, nor can I do it with SEIMITSU LS-32.I am like an expert on old school arcade cabinets, last year, the local coin-op arcade finally was out of business.I have purchased an IL EURO stick, it was good for Street fighter, but a nightmare in Mortal Kombat, where the down-back diagonal would save you from being throwed away.I would have to pay a huge cost of delivery, over $ 100, to Bulgaria, Europe.And the problem is that I have to buy a new controller, USB only, I got no PS/2 on my PC.I will never play the stick on any console, just PC and MAME/Kaillera.And I hesitate, would it be the X-Arcade USB TANKSTICK, MAS with a Perfect 360, HOTROD USB.I almost cried when I heard that the SlikStik guys are now bankrupt and out of business, otherwise, I think I would get the Fighter unit.I just want the closest sticks possible to the arcade cabinets that we used to play 15 years ago, and I dont know what to do.I Have the IL EURO stick, but dont know if the problem will be resolved, if I put the correct microswitches, and where to get them from…I hate gamepad and keyboard play.I have tried dozens from them as well.

Ohhh I getcha.

Hummm… well, I’m really not sure about Bulgaria/Europe but I believe the arcade cabinets in the States and Canada 15 years ago were almost all using Happ Ultimate joysticks and Happ Ultimate pushbuttons.

It’s reaaally worth mentioning that the Happ Competition joystick and the Happ “Pushbutton with Horizontal Microswitch” (long terrible name haha) were created in later years as superior replacements for the Ultimates in response to player demand. Note also that the “Pushbutton with Horizontal Microswitch” has a concave top; the Happ Competition pushbutton is the exact same thing with a convex top, which is now preferred by the majority of players.

Yeah, I hope that helps you in some way… I just don’t have a clue about what Europe would’ve had back then. Maybe some Wico leaf-switch stuff??? Hopefully somebody can help you out here. If nobody can, I’d re-post your question on the Neo Empire forums.

Does anybody know the engage forces for HAPP/iL sticks? Specifically for the Competition and Perfect 360.

I checked kowal’s site but he left that part blank. Slagcoin only has subjective values.

Check out my post a few posts up. Try a 3.5" Wico balltop in a MAS p360/comp housing with the Happ light spring. You’ll have to use a small keyring or something to sit between the stopper and the thicker end of the stick on top of the housing. Honestly it’s the best stick I’ve ever used.

Thanks, but I HATE balltops, nor can I get the stuff you requested…The HRAP3+SEIMITSU LS-32 seems perfect for champion gamer like me in MAME-Punisher, Cadillacs and dinosaurs, King of dragons, where small and lighting fast dashes and semi-dashes are perfect.I have ordered the X-Arcade Tankstick, and I am crossing fingers, hoping there will be no USB lag.I know they use HAPP replicas, and I will order genuine sticks from HAPP controls, USA.I think the Super stick will be faster and will easily hits down diagonals due to the longer metal stuff they use, compared to the Competition stick.And, for the IL EURO stick that I recently did buy, which totally SUX, will anything change if I get different than the Cherry microswitches…I got no info about this microswitch, shall I give it a try, it costs $ 2.5 only- http://www.mikimak.com/index.php?function=detail&id=3764

It is total nonsense. iL Eurojoystick is original and use cherry D series (iL, Suzo)
Compact Joytsick (super) have very small range of diagonals

Why on earth would you change out the Cherry switches with those? And why would you pay more for them than the stick? Just curious…

Chad
www.lizardlick.com

I swapped out the cherry switches in my comp for Matsuhita switches(harder switches) taken from my Hori T5. Makes everything feel crisp =P. Maybe those switches are similar.

@Kowal, the IL I took is a pure piece of (something), and has NOTHING do to with the sticks I used to play in real arcade coin cabinets.I mounted into the HRAP 3 and gave the stick to 4 different guys, all of them tournament champions.The down-back diagonal is extremely important in Mortal Kombat rev 3 and Street Fighter II:Champion edition, since it is your blocking.A friend of mine suggested that, if I change the switches, things might be OK.I took mine from here- http://www.starcab.net/product_info.php? cPath=219_151&products_id=584
@Kowal, I thought the Super stick was the one found in arcade cabinets…I ordered the X-Arcade USB tankstick, since I cannot get nor SlikStick nor Mas stick nor HANAHO HOTROD in Bulgaria.I noticed it uses concave knockoffs, and I will maybe order genuine HAPP stuff from Suzo Holland, so I will write in the thread pretty often…It would cost like hell, but what HAPP sticks and buttons shall I get for the X-arcade?

Ok, so I have just received teh X-Arcade Tankstick from France, and plugged in as USB.I have played Street Fighter 2-Champion edition offline, and I can say that there is no such thing as lack, tiger knees, hadoukens, tiger uppercuts and fireball do not miss even once.I need some time to get used to do them on player 2 side, because the spring sometimes can be felt.It comes with concave buttons that are very fast reacting, but I might get real HAPP convex, not to get my fingers tired.The finish is really awesome, I have sacrificed 200Euros to risk, and I can say I am deeply sorry for spending more than 250 euros on the shitty HRAP3, as the Sanwa buttons and sticks I took are a parody of gaming, and, after playing a year on them, I never got used to them, nor to the Seimitsu LS32, which I consider much faster for hadoukens.All legends like “Japanese stuff is very sensitive or reacting” are now broken, they are for people that cannot calculate the exact split seconds to press the button or move the stick.As a world champion in some other games, I know what I am talking about.I dont think to use the X-Arcade on any consoles, maybe there really IS lag, but on MAME-no, sir!The sticks are really easy to hit the right diagonal, which is a nightmare on Japanese sticks.Since HAPP has crapified the real controls, would I get some advantage if I upgrade the Tankstick to genuine stuff, and, if yes, would I get any advantage?Technically, the Perfect 360 should be much faster and could not miss any diagonal, but I read that the Super and Competition stick are better for fighters…

I’m having a problem with assembling my P360.

I followed the instructions, but it seems the pivot bushing is too big and I can’t even attach the E-clip at the bottom. the actuator covers the entire end of the stick. I tried taking off the sleeves but I still have the same problem.

Also on a side note, when I try to hold it in play with my hand and jiggle the stick back and forth it grinds pretty badly.

If anyone could let me know what I’m doing wrong or if maybe I just need another pivot, I’d appreciate it very much.

Try flipping the spring over. Check my previous posts, I even have pics.

tried that last night, still got the same problem.

I seriously think I got a bad pivot it looks way longer than the one in the instrutions.

:sad: