Updated with more info on the microswitches that IL uses in their Eurojoysticks.
IL now sells them in the US with a better version (comparison pic of the Happ switches and the new IL ones thanks to Chad. The old switches can be seen in the pics of the Eurostick on the lizardlick website) of the model of Cherry microswitches Happ uses (the ones with the red activation tabs and .187 inch quick disconnector things) and they supposedly feel better.
Thanks so much for the answers, EvilSam. Iâm going to have to re-read and digest it before I can make any sort of educated follow-up response. :lol:
yeah i would also like to point out that NOT all cherry switches or buttons are created the same. for example i had no idea why my old competition buttons and cherry switches were so hard to press on my stick. so i decided to swap out all my old buttons and switches for a new set iâve brought. wow what a difference it makes. the new comp. buttons and cherry switches were so much more sensitive like a seimitsu button. i could do all my moves in a fighting game without messing up anymore.
did your old comp buttons have vertical microswitches? That is probably the reason. Vertical Microswitch Comp buttons = Convex Happ Ultimates. Run.
in Wico and HappP360 joystick
all elements is compatible. hub (optical , microswitch, leaf switch), shafts, base (8way spring action and 4/8way rubber)
http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/9249/nowy1na3.th.jpg
âOld comp buttonsâ had microswitches that were mounted âverticallyâ? I thought they were only made to be mounted horizontallyâŚ?
Microswitches of they same âmodelâ, from the same manufacturer, can vary in engagement forces, e.g. âlightâ, âstandardâ, âheavyâ forces etc. (measured in Newtons (N) or grams).
Itâs quite possible that Cherry supplied a different âsetâ; Iâve seen this happen in other types of joysticksâŚ
What exactly are we looking at, here?
Looks like a Happ Competition on the left (iL?), and obviously a Perfect360 on the right. Thatâs a Wico in the middle two? Do people like those? Iâm not aware of anybody in my area using them, so I never gave them any thought.
all is Wico (only miss wico Conical Joystick but conical is base for Wico Leaf Switch and hub from Wico Microswitch Joystick)
on left:
Wico Microswitch Joystick
Wico Leaf Switch 8way
Wico Leaf Switch 4way
Wico P360
^ ^ ^ Thanks a lot for the help, kowal. 
EvilSam, I have a couple of return questions to last set of answers.
I found the thing I remember reading. Itâs a quote from the iL 8-Way Eurojoystick entry on (LizardLick) Chadâs stick page: âthe Eurojoystick was originally purchased from Industrias Lorenzo in kit form by Happ, who added Cherry microswitches and black washers and sold it as the âCompetitionâ joystick.â By âwasherâ he just means the dust cover, right? I heard the all-IL sticks feel more square than the good, old-school Competitions.
To make the perfect Competition, the way they used to be, I simply swap the Happ (Cherry) microswitches onto an all-IL stick, correct? This will solve the all-IL Euroâs square feeling problem, then? Do I still need to sand down the microswitchesâ bodies after that?
The third you mentioned, I think. The ones I have look exactly like Happâs current P360 except they say âWICO 360â rather than âHAPP 360â or âPERFECT 360â or just â360.â Iâm assuming that this means I can swap in virtually any Happ parts my heart desires, but I wanted to double-check before I start ordering stuff!
Are these the correct old-school Wico P360âs that all the Marvel players rave about? Did I buy the wrong P360âs?!
Thanks again!
v v v Haha, no youâre right, itâs pretty clear in context of the entire paragraph. Iâm just being a little over-paranoid and brain-slow.
Eric, yes I mean dustwasher when I say âwasherâ, maybe I need to go in there and make that a little more clear⌠As far as the switches go on the Euroâs, they are Cherryâs, just a different model. Iâm not sure if it would make any difference swapping them out with Happâs version or notâŚ
Thanks,
Chad
www.lizardlick.com
D42 (blue plunger - Ultimarc use him and Suzo) and D41 (green plunger CoinControl use him) has the same dynamic, after engagement tension grows up and stop pressing-they want to return
D44 (use Wico) and and KWJ (use happ and Suzo) is very similar
^^ Some Suzos also used D44s. They engage slightly later than Happ Cherry switches (KWJ); which may or may not be desirableâŚ
EDIT:
Looking at this pic for the new iL:
⌠The D44s have an âxâ suffix; not sure if that is an âenhancementâ of some kind thoughâŚ
âŚsooo ima try to ask this again just to be on the safe side. Could i buy the IL Euro 8-way stick, and spray paint the stick part ONLY white with Krylon spray paint(for plastics)? Naturally disassemble it so i only spray the stick. Or would i have to use something different? A poster said some users have painted their sticks before. I just donât wanna screw up my stick 
and regret it
I am trying to get to the bottom of the âcrunchyâ P360s. I know of that GoldenNZ washer, but have never even seen what it looks like.
As noted before, the source of the rough feeling is with the contact between the spring and the plastic pivot inside the hub assembly. Anyone ever just try flipping the spring around? I noticed that depending on the spring, if it is too sharp and not flush with the contact it makes on the plastic, it eventually goes rough like this:
http://media.share.ovi.com/m1/large/0357/550ce71672b24dc6b3cfcab86199e62b.jpg
You can see where the spring cut a groove into the plastic right in the middle. I assume the Golden NZ washer goes right over this area where the slick material would eliminate the gross and rough feeling. I have noticed that by simply flipping the spring, the roughness goes away. For example, here is the side of the spring that was cutting into the plastic:
http://media.share.ovi.com/m1/large/0357/32b9b1da259f4fd2a828f7457eea8377.jpg
Simply flipping the spring, or ordering a few at $2 a piece seems like a cheaper alternative to spending $50 for NASA grade composite materials. The side of the spring in that picture was the one digging into the plastic making that groove. The other end of the spring fits nice and flush and does not scrape the plastic. Just throwing my observations out there.
If I am to buy the X-Arcade Tankstick, after being quite disappointed with the SANWA/SEIMITSU junk stuff, can I put in genuine HAPP parts, maybe the PERFECT 360, and which buttons exactly from HAPP? I can order them directly from their site via Holland, but I cannot do it from LizardlickâŚPlease helpâŚ
Hey Fix, if youâre having a problem ordering through our site, or if thereâs something you need that we donât have, shoot me an emailâŚ
BTW, you can use Happ Comps or Horizontals in that stick, or Happ/IL translucentsâŚ
Thanks,
Chad
sales@lizardlick.com
I have a strange problem with my Happ Competition stick.
Iâve got this stick for, like, 5 months, but only now I have mounted it on a box. The problem is, that I had to open it (well, actually donât know if I had to, but I did because I was curious about how it looked inside), by unscrewing the 4 screws that are holding the base of the microswitches.
I wasnât afraid of destruying it or something like that, but when I opened it, the spring bounced the shit out of the stick, and I wasnât able to check how it was mounted inside it.
So then I grabbed the spring, and thought that it was placed in a way that, the âpivotâ little legs (donât know if itâs named like that, the thing that moves inside the stick and moves the actuator) are âinside the springâ. Sorry if I canât describe it very well.
The problem itself, is that the stick now is very loose! When you charge to a side, for example left, and let the bat top go, it will return to center, touch right side, then return to center again, and sometimes it will touch left side again.
I donât know what to do, and I canât afford to buy just the spring if I screwed it. BTW, itâs an IL Competition, as it has a white actuator.
Thanks for your help.
Sounds like a normal light spring, I got one and it does that. But the microswitches should not be touching the spring, they should be separated by the cap that goes inside the housing. Refer to the top left piece in kowalâs pic at the top of this page, you can see the cap over the spring, the housing gets screwed on top of that.
I didnât realize this thread was here, or I wouldnât have made a new thread for this, put Iâll post my question here, too:
3,5-4min on small fire on kitchen but is very soft 3x
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/7688/artspz4zd7.gif
try 1,5-2min on small fire
hard spring - P360 or Wico Conical Joystick with floating actuator
medium spring - competion, eurojoystick, KC-04, X-arcade, WicoP360, Wico Conical Joystick
soft spring - ultimate, CoinControl
Dandy J, thanks for your answer.
I donât remember the stick being so loose, so I donât think that is caused by a light spring. Iâve got another Happ competition and itâs much more stiff (is that the correct term?), and those two were bought from Ponyboy.
Iâll try to take some photos of the interior later today to explain me better.
