The IL FAQ/Information thread *Happ now is too grimey to even use Cherry switches*

Thanks man

  1. The white actuator rotates on the stick (the so called “floating actuator” originally invented by Wico for their microswitch sticks which were similar to comps). The Black actuator does not do this as easily.

  2. yes. You have to break it in.

thanks for answer…

more 2 questions.

1-How can I break in my hard spring??

2- So the black actuator has the same size as the white one, as I think, or I was wrong? if I try to lubrificate (make a way to black actuator rotates as the white) my black actuator it would has the same results as the white one? (I have both, but I like the idea of having every parts same color.)

One more time, thanks very much EvilSamurai.
Sorry if Im asking stupid questions, but I really want to know some information about Happ controls, I bought one for me a few time ago, and I think Happ Comp is the best joystick that I ever touched, I like to play MvC2 and I want to start to play it more competitive, so I think I need to have the best to do the best I can.

just use the white actuator. It’s better.

How can I do it? I didnt understand the term…
I have to cut it?
have to play a lot them it become a little soft?

just play with it for a while and abuse the fuck out of it.

I just put a Happ competition stick into my SFAC box.

It’s better than the stock one, but the black actuator it came with kinda sucks. It’s fine as long as I don’t rotate the stick, but you never know when that’ll happen. If it gets rotated, it seems like it behaves a little differently.

This is what everybody here is saying, right? I’m not missing anything? Is there a place I can get a new, better actuator? Should I just ask around in the neighborhood?

It’s just a dumb little chunk of plastic. Doesn’t seem like it should be this hard.

Just buy a new IL Eurojoystick from Lizardlick and put that in your stick. Happ Comp sticks have other manufacturing problems beyond the non-floating actuator such as imprecise molding, worse pivots, etc. Happ fucks up every joystick they get their hands on. Go with IL.

Fuck.

Well, I might not do it this second, but maybe I’ll end up doing that.

thanks for the info, guess I should have looked into this sooner.

Shadow, if you don’t want to go the route of buying another new stick like Evil suggests (although I wouldn’t mind, lol), we do have the white actuator in stock. You’ll find them under the Comp sticks on our website…

Thanks,

Chad
www.lizardlick.com

So you do! Thanks for the heads up.

It’s not really such a big deal. I just feel dumb.

Is there a consensus w/ Happ Comp. vs. iL? I’m asking, but I’ll probably see if any of my friends around town actually have one so I can try it out. If it’s the way to go, then I’m probably happier spending the extra ten bucks than cheaping out now.

All my SFAC mods have the correct happ comp stick or the IL euro sticks. I may have an extra somewhere you can gut.

can somebody tell me where to get these concave buttons with light springs/switches? i need them badly. my arcade has them and they are slightly smaller than the competition buttons but they are way easier to press and has more sensitivity.

so the floating actuator is the main problem and not the placement of the switches? why don’t you just take a small round file to it for like 4 strokes all around and then fill it with lube?

Both are major problems. It’s easier to just buy the white one. Also the molding of the Happ stick base/gate thing that holds the microswitches is almost always fucked up. Just buy an IL stick if you don’t have one of the sticks made before Happ took over production.

Happ Concave w/ horizontal switch are what you are looking for. They are the same as Competition buttons just with a longer throw and concave surface. I think they have the same spring as the Comp buttons but the longer throw makes it feel softer. Avoid Happ Ultimates.

Ive looked and i haven’t been able to find a white Competition joystick, do they even make that stick in that color???

AFAIK, no, but I have seen people on these forums paint their Happ sticks white as well as other colors.

Hey good enough to me, im assuming i would need a special kind of paint. Can any1 out there tell me what kind of paint i would need to use by any chance?

I have a pile of questions that I couldn’t find the answers for in this thread. Sorry if they’re there and I missed 'em!

  • Do all off the new Happ Competition joysticks suck? Is there known to be an early batch that turned out well or anything?
    The bulk of my experience with American parts has been with second-rate stuff; the Super, the Ultimate, imitations, clones, and knock-offs. I recently started using a Competition stick I purchased juuust before the switchover from IL became known to us–it does use the new black actuator–and it feels really smooth to me. (I’m used to using Sanwa JLF’s, so I’d like to think I know something about how nice a joystick can potentially be.) Would anyone please be able to describe to me exactly how it should feel wrong? Am I crazy, do I have no sense for a great American stick, or is this one actually fine?!

  • Does anyone know exactly which parts of the Competition joystick were Happ and which were IL on the older ones that are so well-loved?
    http://happcontrols.com/joysticks/competition_joy_e.htm
    I’m basically wondering what you’d use from what to make the “perfect” hybrid if you had the complete sets of parts for one pure Happ and one pure IL. I heard you use the Happ (Cherry) microswitches and maybe the pivot and something else, and then the rest is IL? Would you still have to sand the microswitches to get the that perfect, smooth feeling?

  • Does anyone know exactly which parts of the full Happ P360 stick can be swapped onto a Wico P360 without compromising its superior performance?
    http://happcontrols.com/images/pdf/ins-0057.pdf
    I managed to acquire a handful of very old and abused Wico P360 parts. They do still work, but they look and feel tired and beaten up, and are badly in need of a revivification. I’m essentially wondering what I can salvage and what I should throw out.

Thanks in advance for any and all help, guys! :smile:

  1. Yes all of them suck. The main problem isn’t the black actuators but imprecise plastic molding used to make the base that holds the microswitches and acts as the gate. The black actuator doesn’t float as easily as the white one but may feel ok if well lubricated. You got lucky probably got one that uses the IL base with the Happ actuator. It’s pivot cylinder may be the shitty happ one too though. You should be fine if you keep it well lubed. Just remember that when you replace it, go with IL.

  2. All the parts were IL on the good, old Happ ones. Happ just assembled them and over the last couple of years was gradually shifting to making them (part by part as it’s stocks were depleted) in it’s own factory in China (aka crapifying them). IL now includes the model of Cherry microswitches that Happ uses in their Eurojoysticks that they sell in the US as they seem to have realized that they can gain some market share due to Happ-made joysticks being incredible shitty.

  3. What kind of Wico 360s? The one that was an attachment for the balltop leaf switch sticks, the one that was a seperate base for microswitch sticks, or the complete microswitch one that looks externally like the current Happ one but without “Happ” on it?