Throwmasta, how thick is your control panel? If you really want a circular range of motion, then you can install one of the many Sanwa JLW models and put in a circular gate. The thickness of the control panel will determine what version of the JLW is best to install.
Well, I swapped out the hub a few days ago, and put one in from an old happ competition stick. I ran into an interesting problem; although both hubs appeared to be identical in shape and size, the one from the old happ distributed competition stick would NOT fit in the rectangular section that was cut out for it (inside the control panel). I actually had to sand down the sides of the hub, and then hammer it in with the handle of a screwdriver. Once I put everything back together and moved the stick around, I heard a very pleasant and familiar sound. No more rubbing of microswitches as I moved the stick in a repeated circular motion. I was very optimistic as I booted up VF5 on Xbox 360 to see if my ādirectionally challengedā competition stick had been cured!
As I entered free training mode and tested it out, nothing had changed; much to my disappointment :(. The problem persists after changing everything but the microswitches themselves, which is my last resort. If that doesnāt work, I will try sanding them. Thanks for the reference to the Sanwa JLF circular gate Evil Samurai, but I still have a few more options to look into 1st.
tl613,
More questions about sanding (sorry if this is getting tedious). If my stick is moving in an imperfect circle, in terms of it always wanting to hit the corners (offensive/defensive crouch aka db/df); even when Iām blatantly moving it back/forward (left/right); how should I sand the microswitches to fix this?? Thanks in advance for the help!
Another question, what if I were to sand all 4 sides of the actuator? Has anyone ever tried this??
Iāve been in confusion about this for around three days.
I have a new IL Eurostick from LizardLick.
Iām mounting to (3/4)" MDF wood.
Do I use a 1_(1/4)" bit to allow room for the Shaft?
Or can I use the 1_(1/8)" I have for the buttons?
Iāve been looking over the stencil thread and have seen holes labeled as large as 1_(3/4)". So you can imagine my confusion.
Thanks.
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At that thickness, I think a 1 & 1/4" diameter should serve you just fine. Iām throwing that number out there because itās what Iām going to useā¦ itās smack dab between the maximum and the minimum sizes that work (canāt remember what those are) but also because that size of hole saw/fostner bit/spade thing is super easy to find.
Does anyone know where can I find the Perfect 360 in EU?Pleaseā¦:hitit:
^
www.arcadeshop.de/ and www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk donāt have them so I have no idea. You will probably have to buy one from the US.
Has anyone ever tried making the iL competition stand taller? I know itās a strange question since their considered to be already tall, but the case of my stick is 3/4" thick and I have my competition bottom mounted. Is there a way to gain some height?
Do you have a router or know someone that does? Otherwise no.
hard spring replacement
I need advice about the competition stick. Recently, my stick has been getting ālooserā and I am wondering about something. As the stock spring wears down, would it be a good thing to replace it with a hard spring? I am assuming that the stick will take a longer period of time to wear down and also perhaps it will give me a p360 feel. Once again, advice and recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
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Yes
I found the stiff happ spring to be way too stiff. Once it breaks in it could be ok but I just thought it was reallllly stiff.
As far as trading a happ comp for a jlw-um-8 with round restictor I wouldnt recomend it. That stick feels like its filled with mud, and the diagonals are much harder to hit. But this is just my experience.
the happ competition joystick was stiff for me and i liked it that way but recently mine turned all smooth and it seems as if the spring isnāt so stiff anymore. when i do quarter circle forward moves sometimes they dont even come out , it feels like its so loose that sometimes it registers more than one movement, i just canāt do qcfs all the time like activate super out of nowhere with yun for example.
Which spring did the default competition happ come with? because at first the stick felt nice and stiff but now is all smooth and loose, did the happ competition start off with a light spring or did i already have a hard spring? which one do i need to buy to make it stiff( i suppose its hard spring but just to make sure because i want the stiff secure movement again) or is there just a way to make the spring stiff without having to order stuff, anything will do.
Only the P360 comes with a hard spring right out of the box. So the Happ Competition has a medium spring and after breaking in may feel sort of loose my stick just started doing that with about a 6 month old joystick.
K so im guessing the medium spring is a light(standard)spring on lizardlicks website.
Theres been another little disturbance in my pushbuttons as well, i have Red happ competition buttons (convex) and one of my buttons is squeeky!?!! how do you get rid of this squeeky sound, do i get asmall straw and put in wd-40 or what, i just gotta get rid of this squeeky sound.
Is there a temp fix for the p360s that āgrindā? I know about that $50 washer I can buy, but I was just wondering if I can just go in and perhaps clean out any debris.
first see how much washer touches bases. she should be pause on 1-1,5 mm. only 10-20% copies washer touches bases. you can make longer (+1mm) actuator this will to push up washer.
h- height
fi- diameter
diameter 13,7mm give you better diagonals
http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/7717/image4935fp4.gif
80-90% crunches is bad fit pivot. fix is easy you need only glue and plastic tape
http://youtube.com/my_videos_edit2?ns=1&video_id=D7UAAom1Uhg&next=%2Fmy_videos2%3Fpi%3D0%26ps%3D20%26sf%3Dadded%26sa%3D0%26sq%3D%26dm%3D1
Regarding the grinding on the p360ās, I had recently acquired 2 Mas sticks. One had a slight grind, while the other (older) stick was perfect. So I swapped the pivots, the thing inside the hub assembly. Old one in the new and and vice versa. The grinding went away. Is this the usual source of the grinding? I have no clue how this relates to the GoldenNZ washer deal. I guess I donāt need that part, since the grind originates in the hub itself, and not on the shaft.
Thoughts?
EDIT
That youtube link doesnāt go to anything Kowalz.
One question. I know the Competition stick should be bottom mounted on a 18mm MDF, with a 30 mm stick hole (if I remember well). But now Iām going to make a stick with a 3mm lexan top, should I use a 15mm MDF instead of the regular 18mm? Iām asking because 15mm (MDF) + 3mm (lexan) = 18mm (thickness of the ānormalā MDF). Am I correct?
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Iāve asked this question before too, and the truth is thereās no standard. American cabinets are build all sorts of different ways. Even good ones have a fair amount of variety between them. The wood is generally anywhere between 1/2" and 3/4" thick, with 1/8" plexiglass acrylic on top (Iād just use 3mm lexan polycarbonate). It really just depends on how much shaft youād like to leave showing.
Iād like to know what the nice showcase ācabinetsā use, but I never received a response! You know, the ones with the big screen and the speakers on either side, and the control panel stand is separate and a few feet back from the the screen. I think their setup could be considered the definitive or best American layout.