I’m finding my SE modded with Sanwa buttons and JLF more responsive than my TE for some reason. Anyone else ever find little quirks like this even though you’ve essentially created the same stick?
I drop less magic series on MVC for example, something i found weird in the first place and was putting it down to TV input lag, but i’m sure the buttons are making a difference.
That has to do with the age old thought that the stock sanwa parts in a TE feel nothing like an actual fresh batch of sanwa parts.
Which mounting plate do I buy for the Seimitsu 32-01 to put into the SE Madcatz SFIV stick (mine needs replacing)
The LS-32-01 usually comes with the proper SS mounting plate, though I’ve seen some of them come with the RE one. Here is one with the proper mounting plate.
It screws in the exact same way the stock madcatz stick did. Just keep in mind that you need to reverse the harness cable so that your directions are all intact.
Thank ya kindly good sir.
I actually had a hell of a time reversing my directions initially because I think I bought the wrong Sanwa stick. Meh, it worked out in the end kinda.
Guess I’ll ask this here:
A friend was trying to dual mod (or something) a Madcatz SE and the contact for the point labeled D+ came off. Is there an alternate soldering point or is this otherwise fixable?
Yes, it’s fixable. I assume you’re talking about breaking the wire that goes to D+ which should just be a matter of cleaning the hole, stripping the wire, and resoldering. If you did manage to pull the traces off the board you can go to youtube for instructions on how to deal with that.
The metal contact was pulled off the board. There is nothing left to solder to at the original point.
No idea what I should even be searching for on Youtube.
Solder to B3, it is Jumper (0 Ohm Resistor) for Data+.
Xbox 360 PCB right?
Yes, 360. I assume you mean BE3?
B3, it is right next to Data+ point.
Thinking I should move my SE stick parts into a new case. Get a bit more size for comfort. From the looks of it, the vast majority would be unscrewing it all and mounting it into place in the new case, then plugging the wires back into the buttons and stick. But I think I see two tricky parts. The top-right and the top-left.
The top-left is the start/back buttons. I’m assuming I can just take the ends off those wires, slap on some quick disconnects and pop them onto some 24mm Sanwa buttons (easier said than done…maybe because I’ve never done it). The top right seems more intimidating. I don’t care about Turbo functionality, nor the lock switch. but the input switch and guide button seem to raise a few questions for me. Two questions come to my mind here: A) I’ll obviously have to ditch the input switch, so will the input be DP by default? And 2) How in the hell do i keep the guide button? i’d like to have it on the front, around the Start/Back buttons.
I’ll either build a stick over the summer or use one of the cases from Art’s Hobbies. Either way, my plan is to put LT and RT on the sides so I can play pinball! :razzy:
You have everything right so far. What you are gonna do with the top-right, which I will refer to as the guide module, is take off the white plastic cover on it by removing the 4 screws holding it (BEWARE, these strip very easily) and take it out of the plastic cover, then solder 2 wires to the two points on the pcb that correspond to the Xbox Guide button, maybe throw on 2 quick disconnects on it, and wire it to your button. I believe you you should keep the Guide module pcb for the sake of ease, as I am not sure how the pcb handles input without it, but if you keep the Guide module pcb, and leave it set to “DP” you will be fine.
So then, I should just be sure to buy some wires and quick disconnects (pretty sure there’s soldering equipment at home). So that, along with attaching quick disconnects to the Start and Back wires (I’m sure I can find videos that show all of this), that’s probably all the “difficult” work then, right? The rest should be a simple process of unscrewing from the madcatz case and mounting into the new case?
I’ve been modding my SE finally and everything has been going smoothly…until the buttons came along. They don’t seem to want to fit. I have some Sanwa OBSF-30 buttons, but they seen to be made out of hatred, as they refuse to simply snap in. There’s some excess plastic that is rubbing on the edges of them preventing them from fulling inserting. I’m assuming this is just left over from the mass production, but I feel like I should at least say something here before I decide to file it down some to fit.
E:Well I just took care of the two that were odd an the rest went right in, problem solved
update on previous posts. Curious if anyone has a picture of what the PCB looks like under the turbo/guide panel?
Does anyone happen to know what a good replacement screw for the bottom panel would be? I’ve either lost or ruined the heads of most of the stock screws over the last couple of years and it’s about time to replace whats there.
So while modding my SE stick, I accidently pulled the lug from one of the stock buttons while pulling the quick disconnect.
So what are some ways to get the lug from the quick disconnect?
Best tool I can think of that could do this is a precision or exacto knife set from radioshack (this one).
It comes with a fine point tip which you can use to fish the lug out of the quick disconnect. Can’t think of a single household tool that could help honestly. You might be able to pry it out with an exacto knife tip.
I would ask this question in the Absolute noobies thread. This question isn’t very specific to SE’s.
I’m pretty sure this question has been asked a million times but is JLF-TP-8YT-SK the same as JLF-TP-8YT/JLF-TP-8Y?
