The how to mod your SFIV SE Fightstick FAQ

Tech Talk
1902

Here the six variations listed in Sanwa Catalog ('07~'08):
JLF-TP-8 is Base JLF.
JLF-TP-8Y is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90°.
JLF-TP-8T is Base JLF with JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8YT is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 ° with JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8S is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 ° with JLF-P-1S (S Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8Y-SK is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 ° with JLF-CD (Shaft Cover).

Of course other variations can be done too:
JLF-TP-8-SK, JLF-TP-8T-SK, JLF-TP-8S-SK, JLF-TP-8YT-SK.

I’ll just add this for completeness, since it is JLF:
JLF-TM-8 can do; JLF-TM-8T, JLF-TM-8T-SK, JLF-TM-8S, JLF-TM-8S-SK.

You can use any of those.

JLF-TP-8 you will rotate PCB and use stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate or buy Sanwa JLF-P-1.
JLF-TP-8Y you will use stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate or buy Sanwa JLF-P-1 to mount in Case.
JLF-TP-8T you will rotate PCB and just pop into the Case after removing stock Mad Catz Joystick.
JLF-TP-8YT you will just pop into the Case after removing stock Mad Catz Joystick and mount in Case.
JLF-TP-8S you will remove JLF-P-1S, rotate PCB and use stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate or buy Sanwa JLF-P-1.

(I’m just explaining for some. There are of course more variations.)

You see that I did not mention anything with [SK]?
That is because it is nothing to how Sanwa JLF fit into Mad Catz Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick™.
It is just a Shaft Cover; there for looks.

Once you have a JLF in your hands, rotating the PCB can be done in only five seconds.
It is super easy.

Here is removing Restrictor Gate.


Here is rotating of PCB.

If want save money, and shop you are buying from has JLF-TP-8Y cheaper than JLF-TP-8YT, then get JLF-TP-8Y.
Just use the stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate.

But if you don’t want to do the work of unscrewing the stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate off, then buy JLF-TP-8YT.
Some shops sell JLF-TP-8YT with Mounting Plate not pre-installed, so you may have to screw it on yourself.
But if you will be screwing on Mounting Plate, might as well start out with JLF-TP-8Y right?

But installing a Mounting Plate requires taking apart Joystick.
So might as well start out with JLF-TP-8 right?
That doesn’t matter though, as I don’t think I’ve seen shop with JLF-TP-8, just JLF-TP-8Y.
Rotating PCB very simple and quick though.

You want the exact variation of Sanwa JLF that Mad Catz Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick™ has?
JLF-TP-8YT.
Even more exact?
JLF-TP-8YT-W; that just means White Ball Top.

You want the exact variation of Sanwa JLF that Mad Catz Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick™ Tournament Edition has?
JLF-TP-8YT-SK.
Even more exact?
JLF-TP-8YT-SK-W; that just means White Ball Top.

So, choose which you want.
Choose on how much you want to spend.
Choose on how much work you want to do.

And one last thing to end this Post.
If you will be reusing the stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate, just reuse the screws.
And also, the screws need something to hold onto; they grab on the nuts.

These nuts are located in the stock Mad Catz Joystick.
After you remove the Restrictor Gate, lift off the Joystick PCB.
Underneath, you will then see the four nuts the screws are threading into.

But if for some reason you do not want to reuse the screws and nuts, you can go out to buy.
There is known problem for the screws to strip really super easy.

Get some M3 (3mm) screws of .5mm Pitch at length of 8mm.
For the nuts, get M3 (3mm) of .5mm Pitch.

If you are not reusing stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate, and just using the one provided with Sanwa JLF, then it’s cool.

And because I feel you will ask about this also if it happens:
The Restrictor Gate on stock Mad Catz Joystick is on super tight.
So you will need assist with tool to remove; a screwdriver or something.

1903

Edit: Nm found the thread I was looking for =)

1904

Thank you, I will be buying JLF-TP-8YT-SK from the Gameshark store.

1905

I have the same question as Takumi. I’m putting together a list of parts I’ll need to order from Lizard Lick but I want to keep it as inexpensive as possible and if the stock ball top in the FightStick SE will fit the Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT-SK, that will save me a few bucks (and every dollar counts!).

Thanks in advance. :slight_smile:

1906

Yes.

1907

Hi guys, just a quick question.

I want to try out a Seimitsu stick for my SE, but I don’t want to use the LS-32 because of its shorter throw and stiffer spring. I prefer medium/soft springs and a stick with a slightly longer (Happ-like) throw. Is there a Seimitsu that will fit in the SE (and is relatively easy to install) that I can use? I’m using Lizardlicks as my parts source, and because of Hawaii shipping I’d like to only stick to using one store - any recommendations for other Seimitsus that have these properties and are relatively easy to install?

1908

There really isn’t a stick that meets your qualifications. Closest would be LS-33, which is not a drop in replacement as it uses individual microswitches instead of the 5-pin harness. Though a LS-55-01 kind of meets your requirements, but I don’t believe LL stocks those. Try out Akihabarashop.

1909

Yeah, guess I’ll try Akihabarashop for all the parts. Would the LS-55-01 be a drop-in replacement for the SE?

1910

It would, just make sure you get it with the long rectangular MS mounting plate that it is displayed with on akihabarashop.
I personally have never tried this stick, but I am told it has a larger throw, but a harder spring. Though no where close to as hard as a Happ stick.
Or you could reference this: http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/attributes_brands.html#JOYSTICK_CHART
The big joystick chart.

1911

Hey, thought I would drop this question here before I make a new thread, I did search but didn’t find anything too useful.

I just put a Sanwa JLF in my SE stick, and it feels great, but it does sometimes have a bit of an annoying squeak? I’ve heard silicone grease is what I need, and I can get some for free from work, but I’m not sure where on the stick to put it?

1912

If you can remove the e-clip on the bottom of you joystick, you can pull out the shaft from the rest of the joy stick. Keep note on which way each piece is orientated. Now on the top side of the joystick as you remove the shaft, you see a white sort of half ball shape piece, that is the pivot lube that.
On the underside, you have a small hat shape piece that goes against a metal washer, that is the spring cover lube that as well. You need a very small amounts of grease to lube a jlf properly, if you apply too much wipe the extra with a paper towel or something similar. Make sure the grease you use is a dry (no Water) silicon lube and has no petroleum inside. Petroleum can damage the plastics.

1913

Cheers, thats very helpful. As soon as my new buttons arrive I’ll give this a try.

1914

Quick question: If I buy a Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT-SK Joystick from Lizard Lick, will I need ANYTHING else to replace the joystick in a FightStick SE?

1915

I fought against adding the octagonal gate but in the end I caved. I’m rather glad I did.

1916

I’m going to try to stick with a square gate for now. I just wanted to make certain that there weren’t any other parts necessary for swapping out the joystick.

I’m planning on replacing the buttons later when I can afford to drop another $30 on upgrades. For now, I’m just going to replace the joystick (which is, true to reviews, not very good).

Two new questions:

First, is it common for the joystick connector to fall off? I read about the JLF-TE Harness for MadCatz FightSticks and it makes it sound like a common issue. I’m trying to keep costs as low as possible, so if it isn’t necessary, I’ll skip it. If it is strongly recommended, I may pick it up in a future order.

Second, and this question is a bit random: What was the standard or most common button color scheme on Street Fighter II arcade cabinets in the US? I was thinking it was white for LP and LK, light blue for MP and MK, and red for HP and HK, but I couldn’t recall. I don’t want to do anything too flashy with my FightStick SE, but I thought replicating the original color scheme might be a nice touch and a subtle nod to the series’ beginnings (even if it does show my age a bit :)).

1917

Yes, the stock SE harness does fall off often. However, the issue is easily remedied with some hot glue. If you are willing to hot glue it on, and remove the glue when you wanna take it off, just do that. Otherwise, I would recommend that harness. I have one in my SE, as I try out different sticks a lot, so having that harness helps save me a lot of trouble and glue sticks.

1918

I don’t plan on swapping the stick once it’s installed and I likely won’t be traveling with it often. I’ll only be moving it around my living room and office (where I have my notebook computer set up as a desktop replacement). Is the harness falling off still a concern?

And isn’t there a risk in using a hot glue gun to attach the harness?

If it’s still a concern and if it’s not risky, I’ll look for my wife’s glue gun. :slight_smile:

1919

Yeah, just going between my closet and lap it fell off quite often. The glue gun is highly recommended in your case.
There is not risk of using a glue gun. What I did was apply the glue where the the white hump on the joystick pcb and the wire harness meet. Just make sure you hold the harness in place as the glue dries, which doesn’t take more than 45 secs - 1 min.

1920

Boo. Well, it’s good to know in advance. I ordered the Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT-SK Joystick today and I’ll have a few days to hunt down a glue gun and a glue stick.

Glad to know it’s not a risky procedure. Otherwise, I’d be terrified of ruining the connector and flushing 30 bucks.

1921

I’m planning to purchase a set of 8 Sanwa buttons for my FightStick SE soon and would like input from those who’ve already replaced the buttons on their stock stick.

I’m trying to pick a color scheme and I think I have what I want:

LP, LK: White
MP, MK: Blue
HP, HP: Vermillion
3P, 3K: Black

All buttons would have black trim.

If memory serves, this (white/blue/red) is the color scheme used on some old SF2 arcade cabinets back in the day.

So my 3 questions are:
[LIST=1]
[]Does red or vermillion look better on the FightStick SE?
[]Do you think this color scheme would look good on the stock FightStick SE art?
[*]Do you have a suggestion for a different color scheme?
[/LIST]
I know it may seem silly to be asking questions about button color schemes on an arcade stick, but I only have so much gift money to spend and I want to make sure I build a great-looking stick on the first try.

EDIT: I also thought of going with the following color scheme to match SSFIV’s training mode input displays:

LP, LK: Blue
MP, MK: Yellow
HP, HP: Vermillion
3P, 3K: Black

EDIT#2: Do you all think the buttons without the black trim look better on the stock art than buttons with the black trim?

EDIT#3: Last question: I was thinking of picking up a Sanwa black ball top as well to give the stick a different look. Thoughts?