Nice McGuyverism
But I just rewired the pcb end of the harness to the included connector that came with my seimitsu. 10 minutes of work to make sure when i card the stick around, things didn’t jostle loose.
Not many people do that.
You are cool person to me Trini_Judoka.
Using Wire Harness with the correct mating JST NH Connector is best.
And Sanwa and Seimitsu Wire Harness has that indeed.
Is soldering required?
I have 3 or 4 Seimitsu Wire Harnesses…but no soldering iron. No hot glue.
NO NO not needed at all. You just have to “disconnect” each of the 5 wires from the original connector, and snap them in using the right sequence into the new connector.
alright, I’ve disconnected the black wires from the original connector, and disconnected the Seimitsu wires from the Seimitsu connector. However, I don’t know what order to insert the black wires in the Seimitsu connector. I can’t find any diagrams of a madcatz SE PCB. Help?
EDIT: I found a TE PCB, will this work? I just need the correct order for up, down, left, right, ground
http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/9638/img14161.jpg
EDIT: yes, it worked. excellent
You just insert the wires as how they already are.
There is no order to change.
I don’t know how to explain it, because it just a straight 1-1.
There are no wires crossing or anything.
Quick question when I’m trying to put in my obsf-30’s they’re not going in nicely, one side goes in well then the other sticks up and just won’t budge any ideas why?
Push in harder.
Or file away the nubs.
Thought it might of been those, was those on my Hori Stick but I wasn’t sure as every guide seemed to just pop them in with no fuss,sorted now.
Right now I have another problem. Basically because I’m a muppet I filed them down a bit too much on some of the buttons and now they stick up slightly and move about when I’m playing, not overly bad and still a big improvement over the madcatz buttons but can ruin the aesthetic appeal some what, is there anything I can do short of sticking them down to keep them down?
Since this seems to be the “official” SE thread i’ll post my progress here (if anyone even still buys SE sticks anymore):
I basically was using a Capcom SNES stick before, but i got two SEs on ebay for $18 ($17 for the PS3 one, $1 for the 360 one)
The PS3 one had been dropped it seems, the mounting bracket was bent (so i straightened it) and the case bracket had two of the welding points pop off (I used a small short screw to re-tighten it). Also had a bad wire harness (just replaced it)
The 360 had a bad PCB, it works fine on computer but not on 360. I tried even replacing the security chip, no dice. So I decided to gut it and put another 360 PCB in there (from my previous stick) but there was still the issue of the panel. So to go around that I basically “routed” the LEDs from the controller to the one on the panel. Kind of tricky to explain, but it’s the same general concept used to padhack (you are essentially swapping one part of the circuit for another).
Pictured above is the top panel, To avoid excessive wiring I removed the Zener diode (originally for the +5V input), made the resulting pinout for the guide button, and each LED has it’s own pinout already, just attach the pins to the (removed) led pins on the main PCB. The yellow wire is just due to me ripping the trace by accident 
That’s the main PCB with the LEDs removed. The lower solder points all go to their own individual resistor, the upper solder points are all connected (and then connected to some power source, dunno if it’s directly to +5v VCC or not)
So with that all done it works almost like the original 360 SE, only thing i’m missing is turbo functionality and the LS/DP/RS switch actually doing something.
http://imgur.com/yve8Fl.jpg
Can barely tell :P. Just kind of irritated that i had to put a 360 PCB in a 360 Stick for it to function properly.
Next on the list is to change the USB port. don’t like having cords sticking out.
And I will probably make the turbo LEDs activate on button press if i have the time.
thanks for the info! gonna mod my stick asap! and hopefully do the artwork change too. just in the beggining phase but this will help. hopefully i can get the parts local too.
interesting tidbit: the “ultimate JLF mod” works on the stock SE joystick as well lmao.
you open up the PCB and put a folded post-it between the red button and the switch mechanism, makes it activate quicker.
Also, some of the mushiness of the switch can be alleviated by flipping the piece of plastic the mechanism rests on from the raised side to the flat side (I’m pretty sure this negates the effect of the post-it notes but it makes the switches feel more discrete in their clicking imo:
At the end of the day though it still is a cheap Omron knockoff microswitch though so it may not amount to much. Best solution is to just get a quality Sanwa/Seimitsu stick but i personally felt like messing around with the stock stuff, to see how much it could be improved.
edit tried it out ingame, it makes the stick quite a bit more responsive…a bit too responsive. Flicks backward will register forward as well due to spring recoil. it may just be one microswitch/the stick is off center though because it only happens in one direction.
edit #2 it’s just the right direction that’s oversensitive…maybe i just need to ease off on the post-it notes there.
It actually makes a noticeable difference, i recommend doing it if you are waiting to put a JLF in the stick or something.
also, the squishiness of the stick is because of the actuator grinding roughly against the microswitch button. I haven’t tried it yet but i assume some grease on either the microswitch button or the actuator should solve it.
On lizardlick, the only compatible Seimitsu buttons they have are the PS-15’s?
They have a really limited colors in that model. Are they called something else on that page or can I find them somewhere else?
all the 30mm screw-ins should work as well IIRC.
Why do you think that?
Stupid First Post giving dick information.
ALL Seimitsu 30mm will work.
PS-14-G, PS-14-GN, PS-14-GN(???), PS-14-K, PS-14-KN, PS-15, PS-14-P.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c175/IanCurtis101/SEGUTS.jpg
Can anybody tell me the exact name for that part? It’s for the buttons, I know, but what I don’t know is the proper name for it. Mine is broken and I need to buy a new one. Thanks!
You cannot buy a new one.
It is only from Mad Catz to get.
Terminal/Barrier Strip/Block.
And it not really a Terminal Strip either.
It is a PCB with contacts that stick up to allow for Quick Disconnects to go on.
You have to buy from other SRK Members.
Check Trading Outlet.
what exactly is “broken” about it?
i did crack the plastic on mine cause I screwed it in too tight. but it works fine
You could possibly call Madcatz and ask about getting another “turbo panel daughterboard (PCB)” I dont think they sell tho but you can always try.
I wonder if the TE turbo panel can be used in a SE with a SE pcb…