I just had this stick come in from Amazon. The moment I took it out of the box, the Square and X buttons on my PS3 SE Stick weren’t registering correctly without excessive force. The R1 still has this slight issue yet registers with slightly increased force over the other working buttons. Also, the Circle button used to have this issue but as I kept hammering on these buttons through gameplay, I noticed the responsiveness has improved. I don’t want to return the stick since I’ve read this being an issue when reading customer reviews (and out of curiosity opened it so warranty is voided anyway). Anyway, will replacing these button with higher quality buttons remedy this issue?
Is there a difference between PS-14-KN and PS-14-GN 30mm Pushbuttons?
How much reconfig work is required to drop in a LS-32-01 to an SE?
Hello
First of all I’d like to say thank you to everyone who has contributed to all the stickies, FAQs, guides, etc. on this forum, it’s been a HUGE help to me and I really appreciate all of the time and effort that has been put in to it.
I’ve had my SE stick for over a year and have finally decided to mod it. I’ve been doing quite a bit of research this weekend, trying to decide what I want to do. One thing I have noticed is that people have different ways of describing the way different parts feel, so I figure the only way I’m going to know what I like is to try as much of it as I can.
I’ve decided to go with the Sanwa parts, but I’m going to get several different pieces so that I can try different configurations. This is the list I’ve come up with, from what I’ve gathered this should provide me several options that I can play with, I wanted to see if anyone had any feedback on my parts list or suggestions on what I might want to think about adding or changing before I make the order.
What I’ve picked out so far:
Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT-SK Joystick - This seems to be the standard drop-in replacement stick.
Sanwa GT-Y Octagonal Restrictor Plate - I get the feeling I’ll like this better than the square one.
Sanwa LB-30-N Bat Top (with adapter) - I’m ok with the Ball Top, but I’d like to try this out too.
Seimitsu LS-33 Spring and LS-55 Spring - I think I might like a stiffer stick, but I have no frame of reference as to how stiff I will want it, so I’m getting both of these (these are the correct springs right?).
Sanwa OBSF-30 Pushbuttons - The standard
I think I will be happy with some configuration I can create using these parts. Any suggestions anyone may have would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Quick question because searching the thread yielded no results: Has anyone attempted to or had success with getting a JLW into the SE?
Also, what is the biggest different between a JLF and a JLW? I mean, the JLW has a spring that’s like 750x bigger, but I can’t translate that into anything meaningful.
Just wanted to post some success notes modding the SE with Seimitsu parts. Might be helpful to others since this thread seems to be dominated by Sanwa and its difficult to go back and find info.
Used a LS-32-01(02) and PS-14-GN 30mm Pushbuttons
-
I didnt have any issue with the glue holding the wire harness but if you do, try a screwdriver. Take note here that the “notches” on the wire harness plugged into the original joystick pcb points down, but the notches will need to point up on the ls-32
-
Lizard lick’s ls-32-01 comes with a wire harness. Obviously you don’t need it because you can use the SE’s harness. The problem is the connector pops out at the slightest movement. Some others might suggest tape, but i created more work for myself because i wanted to use the connector made for the ls-32. I just simply rewired the pcb end of the harness to the connector that came with the ls-32, keeping track of the exact wire sequence and orientation I needed of course.
-Since the buttons are screw ins, the lk button is very close to the mounting area, duh. Apparently you have to shave some of the nut (hehehehe) off to make it fit. I dunno. I didnt have to do this. I noticed this area has a curve as if newer manufactured SE’s became screwin frendly. All i needed to do was put the nut in, then push the button through and twist.
-Ok so you need to rotate the pcb 90 degress. Best way so that you can use 4 screws to secure the mounting plate to the box is to take off the dark blue and light blue restrictor plates, then the pcb/microswitch . Orient the joystick assembly properly and screw that in, then put back the pcb, the light blue then the dark blue restrictor plates.
-The dark blue restrictor plate for some odd reason gives the corners are slightly more rounded feel. I really like it so i kept it. Others may not.
just a couple notes i’d like to add, since i recently modded my SE with seimitsus too
I used an LS-56 (with MS mounting plate) and the connector fits extremely snug, it will never pop out. I remember my JLF connector popping out until I taped it and it seems the LS-32 has the same problem. but i can verify that the LS-56 doesn’t have that problem.
I also used PS-14-GN buttons. I noticed the curve in the mounting plate near the LK button but it still did not fit. so I simply screwed on the nut until it hit the mounting plate, then turned it a few more times until it was snug.
also, for anyone using Seimitsu screw-ins and having problems with the buttons loosening, twist the nut as far as it can go. then while holding the nut, grab the square switch area of the button and give it a hard turn counter-clockwise. the buttons will be tightly secured and won’t come loose any more
seriously can’t wait to get this stick, cheapest and easiest modded one for my choice, xbox controller is absolutely terrible for fighting games, was so close to throwing that thing about 5mins ago, is this stick light? or is it a decent weight? i’ll probably set it down on something while i play it (not using my lap) so will that help?
will do button mod and probably stick mod and try out a octa gate if i dislike square gate.
I just have one qusten. I have a SE stick so should I buy this joystick(1) or This one(2)
Any Sanwa JLF will go in.
All Sanwa JLF are the same; some just have different suffix to show what is added on.
Here the six variations listed in Sanwa Catalog ('07~'08):
JLF-TP-8 is Base JLF.
JLF-TP-8Y is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90°.
JLF-TP-8T is Base JLF with JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8YT is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90° with JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8S is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90° with JLF-P-1S (S Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8Y-SK is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90° with JLF-CD (Shaft Cover).
Of course other variations can be done too:
JLF-TP-8-SK, JLF-TP-8T-SK, JLF-TP-8S-SK, JLF-TP-8YT-SK.
I’ll just add this for completeness, since it is JLF:
JLF-TM-8 can do; JLF-TM-8T, JLF-TM-8T-SK, JLF-TM-8S, JLF-TM-8S-SK.
You can use any of those.
JLF-TP-8 you will rotate PCB and use stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate or buy Sanwa JLF-P-1.
JLF-TP-8Y you will use stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate or buy Sanwa JLF-P-1 to mount in Case.
JLF-TP-8T you will rotate PCB and just pop into the Case after removing stock Mad Catz Joystick.
JLF-TP-8YT you will just pop into the Case after removing stock Mad Catz Joystick and mount in Case.
JLF-TP-8S you will remove JLF-P-1S, rotate PCB and use stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate or buy Sanwa JLF-P-1.
(I’m just explaining for some. There are of course more variations.)
You see that I did not mention anything with [SK]?
That is because it is nothing to how Sanwa JLF fit into Mad Catz Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick?.
It is just a Shaft Cover; there for looks.
Once you have a JLF in your hands, rotating the PCB can be done in only five seconds.
It is super easy.
Here is removing Restrictor Gate.
[media=youtube]L67fUfH3S5o[/media]
Here is rotating of PCB.
[media=youtube]dIgCEpBEhng[/media]
If want save money, and shop you are buying from has JLF-TP-8Y cheaper than JLF-TP-8YT, then get JLF-TP-8Y.
Just use the stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate.
But if you don’t want to do the work of unscrewing the stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate off, then buy JLF-TP-8YT.
Some shops sell JLF-TP-8YT with Mounting Plate not pre-installed, so you may have to screw it on yourself.
But if you will be screwing on Mounting Plate, might as well start out with JLF-TP-8Y right?
But installing a Mounting Plate requires taking apart Joystick.
So might as well start out with JLF-TP-8 right?
That doesn’t matter though, as I don’t think I’ve seen shop with JLF-TP-8, just JLF-TP-8Y.
Rotating PCB very simple and quick though.
You want the exact variation of Sanwa JLF that Mad Catz Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick? has?
JLF-TP-8YT.
Even more exact?
JLF-TP-8YT-W; that just means White Ball Top.
You want the exact variation of Sanwa JLF that Mad Catz Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick? Tournament Edition has?
JLF-TP-8YT-SK.
Even more exact?
JLF-TP-8YT-SK-W; that just means White Ball Top.
So, choose which you want.
Choose on how much you want to spend.
Choose on how much work you want to do.
And one last thing to end this Post.
If you will be reusing the stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate, just reuse the screws.
And also, the screws need something to hold onto; they grab on the nuts.
These nuts are located in the stock Mad Catz Joystick.
After you remove the Restrictor Gate, lift off the Joystick PCB.
Underneath, you will then see the four nuts the screws are threading into.
But if for some reason you do not want to reuse the screws and nuts, you can go out to buy.
There is known problem for the screws to strip really super easy.
Get some M3 (3mm) screws of .5mm Pitch at length of 8mm.
For the nuts, get M3 (3mm) of .5mm Pitch.
If you are not reusing stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate, and just using the one provided with Sanwa JLF, then it’s cool.
Ok sorry just one more qusten. I want white casing and black bottons. so should i buy the the black pluggers and white casing or should i just buy the black plugger and use the white casing form the bottons form my se
Parts from Mad Catz Buttons do not interchange with Sanwa Buttons.
Hey all, fightstick/fighting genre in general newb here. This thread was a fantastic help, but I have pretty major problem:
I modded my SE (obviously) following this guide to a T, but nothing seems to work. Only the down input works on my joystick, and some button functions seem to have been switched around (O is acting as X, for example) despite matching the colour wires with the ones shown in the first post, while others don’t work at all.
Where did I go wrong? And more importantly, is this fixable or did I just screw myself out of $200?
You connected the Wire Harness for Joystick upside-down.
Yep, that fixed the joystick. Thanks. 
Edit: Through good old trial and error I’ve solved my button problem. Yay.
start and select buttons
hw do i change my start a select buttons? they don’t use sanwa parts?
You can’t change them unless you drill new holes for new Buttons.
Then cut off the original Start and Select Connectors.
Then solder or use Quick Disconnect for new.
Hey there, couldn’t find it answered in the OP I was wondering how would I got about simply swapping out the gate? I have an octo gate I’d like to use as I prefer them but can’t get the stock gate off the stick for the life of me.
You got the correct idea of removing.
The Restrictor Gate on stock Mad Catz Joystick is on super tight, use a tool to assist.
For anyone with a Seimitsu joystick:
http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/5843/dscn0727e.jpg
for those pesky wiring harnesses coming loose.
annoyed and unable to find tape, this was the solution I came up with. works with any kind of string, ribbon etc.
I saw that in the other Thread you made Post.
I did not understand what happening.
Now I am seeing.
Laugh.