The how to mod your SFIV SE Fightstick FAQ

I just snapped a quick disconnect in half at the tip trying to pull it out with some pliers. What are my options to fix this? Can I just replace the wire with one of the wires from LT or LB buttons? Do I have to buy a new wire and if so what kind?

Yep, they’re just regular stranded copper wires. Either will do, assuming you don’t need LT or LB.

If you want to fix the current wire you should probably pick up some .110 quick disconnects like these. Some of the joystick supply sites like etokki.com carry them also, if you’re making an order at one already.

Thanks for the reply RoboKrikit, I appreciate your help . I won’t be using the LT or LB buttons, so I’ll just replace one of the wires from there.

Bump

i was helping a friend and her brother out in leading them to sanwa parts to swap into their SE. but they ended up ordering a iL euro stick.

now i know the JLF is plug and play and i recommended they change their order to the JLF + bat top + octagonal gate if they want to something similar to the il/happ, but if they wanted to keep the iL/happ stick - what would they need to modify on the case/wiring to get it working? or is it too much trouble and they should just change their order to the JLF?

It can’t even fit inside the Case.
The bottom would have to be extended.

The wiring is easy.
Just cut off the connector on the stock Wire Harness.
Then add .187" Quick Disconnect to the end of each wire.
Daisy-chain the Ground Terminals on the Joystick Microswitches.
Then just put on the rest of wires connect to the Joystick using Quick Disconnect.

^word. that’s what i was thinking.

right on for the quick definite response. i appreciate it.

this is what i wanted to know also.
i just swapped out the stock (shit) stick and six buttons for sanwa and wondered about getting rid of those tiny normal pad buttons used for start and select.

@
guy swapping QDC on the flat closed side of the QDC at the bottom there is a little 'ledge’
on the few that were hard to get off i used a small flat head slipped under the ‘ledge’ and with a twist of the screwdriver (like opening a can of paint) they came straight off.

Is there any difference between the stock ball top from the SE and the Sanwa one? Will the stock one fit on a SE joystick? I’m just wondering if I need to order a new ball top also since the JLF joysticks don’t come with one.

Also, what’s the SK in the model name mean? For example, what’s the difference between JLF-TP-8YT-SK and JLF-TP-8YT?

Thanks!

Fit, Ball Top.

JLF-TP-8YT-SK comes with Shaft Cover.
JLF-TP-8YT does not come with Shaft Cover.

Great posts everyone this is really helping

Great posting! I just replaced my stock buttons with Seimitsu PS 14 G’s. Tight fit but it works. Now waiting on my LS-32-01…

To replace the square gate with another one of my choice how do I order it or do I have to order a joystick and that’s the only way it’s avaliable?

Hey

Is there any information out there about a left handed (or is it right handed) metal plate for the SE?

I assume if that metal plate is reversed, then I could just slide the buttons and joystick over, and then reverse the artwork and it would be fine. Has anyone done this?

you can’t reverse the metal plate because it has that weird bend at the bottom

speaking of metal plates, i have an odd question. if i wanted to just paint the metal plate, how would i go about doing so? like the best paint(s) to use and the process

i was just thinking of painting it plain black or really dark gray. preferably glossy but matte would be cool too. i only say glossy because i’d like a comfortable surface for my hands

anyone ever order from
http://www.arcadespareparts.com/

pretty good deal if legit? I think $40 shipped for 6 buttons + jlf.

Recently my EX2’s Y button stopped working, and luckily I happen to have an SE with a couple of spare JLF’s. After replacing the SE’s stock stick to the JLF I noticed that the lever, depending on how you hold it, would take longer to return to neutral than is normal. I’ve used Sanwa sticks for years, and have tried each of the brand new JLFs in the SE, so I know something is wrong with the SE. I can’t remember anyone else bringing this up before, so perhaps I just happen to have one of the rare cases of strange architecture in my SE. Has anyone else experienced this, and if so what steps did you take to fix the issue? I am considering installing a Seimitsu LS-32 01 in the hope that it might alleviate the issue.

Is there an alternative solder points for the D+ D- on the SE stick for 360? the 360 is not being detected anymore after adding a dpdt switch.

I switched out all of my buttons and stick on my SE and all was fine for a while but once during mid play the buttons just stopped working. i checked all the wires and made sure everything is attached but nothing works. I think it has to do with the PCB, is there another one that I can order from a website or what can i do?

Hey guys I am new to modding and didn’t take apart my SE stick before ordering the parts. I ended up getting some Sanwa buttons which work amazing but I also got the Sanwa JLW-UM-8 Bat Handle Joystick and I realized the connector doesn’t work have the same connection as the PCB does. Is their any way I can still go about installing this in the stick? Thanks.