Use a flathead screwdriver on them. Just get the corner under the QD and twist to pry them up.
hey thanks man; Im almost done but ive got one more question.
Ive swapped all the buttons and the stick out now. the buttons work perfectly but the stick is weird, it wont detect jump, walk backwards, and back jump (facing right) . What should I do??? Please help.
Sorry for double post, id just really appreciate an answer. Ive looked through the thread just to find that either the wiring harness is loose or upside. Well its not upside down, I reinstalled in upside down and it had the problem with only down working. And i dont think its loose, because ive tried holding it in very hard and trying the inputs yet jump, back jump and block still dont work! I have an extra wire harness but I really dont want to use it if I dont have to because I am an extreme noob when it comes to this (my first mod today)
Oh, and i tried my stock stick again and the stock stick has the same problem. Wtfff is going onnnnn!?!
i just registered because i have exactly the same problem!!
I had a TE but sold it cause it was just too big. I got this SE two weeks ago.
Sanwa parts arrived yesterday.
I just ended up modding, all the buttons input correctly, but the joystick has exactly the same problem, it doesnāt register some ways (like forward).
I tried the stock stick and had the same issueā¦
I donāt know whatās going on but i suspect i just got 100 poorer. 
i just swapped the stick out on my 2nd SE, and the harness that is in the SE was really loose, after just a few minutes of playing it had come loose enough to not register jumpā¦ you might consider either taping it down, or like i did, hot glue it to the stick.
I got my problem solved!
if the problem was the same with both sticks, of course the problem could only be in the harness, but it wasnāt looseā¦ so i just cleaned all the glue on it, some of the glue in front was sticking to the connectors. after that, it was perfect!
iām pretty happy with my SE modded stick!
just need to improve the my lousy skills.
So I just failed hard and messed up the 5 Pin connector beyond all repair. Is there any way I can get take one out of another SE or buy one on the internet that can be connected without soldering? Not that soldering is an issue, and if itās the only way, can anyone recommend one?
Whatās the best way to keep the 5pin connecter on the joystick? Lately Iāve had to play without the back panel to move it around when Iām playing because it was start to fuck upā¦
Just got mine modded a few days ago ( noob to this modding stuff ) and the buttons were a pain. I broke 2 or 3 stock buttons in order to take off the quick disconnects. Some of the metal parts (the thing at the end of the wire, i dont really know its name) were already in bad shape so i dont know if ill end up having some trouble down the road. Also, looking back now i think it may had been better to change the artwork then, now im kinda scared of opening it again and ending up breaking the sanwa buttons.
yo people, i thought i put this here.
so few minutes ago i switched 2 buttons from my SE stickā¦first off everything is stock, iāll order that sanwa these daysā¦
my mk button didnt work properly, so i switched it out with the R2 button (wich i dont use anyways)
and now the mk (R2) button is loose and you can rotate itā¦so i have to be really careful not to twist it around, otherwise the cables will get all fucked upā¦my question is, what did i wrong? or is it that the spot or the button is just a lil different in size?
its weird and it annoys me i dunno :bgrin:
Tape works wonders if you just need it to stick.
Try checking the button to see if the snap on clips are still on it, maybe it broke off when you were taking it off or putting it back on.
nothing broke off as far as i seeā¦but i dont know somehow i dont care muchā¦i was just thinking that while playing i would twist the button to much or whatever and fuck up the cablesā¦but i guess its all good
i didnt want to start w new thread to ask this question,
do Crown CWB203A buttons fit in the SE?
the only reason i ask is cause there cheaper.
my sanwa in my se suddenly stopped working, it is stuck in the down position when i turn on the game or whatever, why is that
Hey everybody, Iām new to arcade sticks and Iām looking to get one of these madcatz SE sticks.
I read that these sticks are, for the most part, not very well made, and that they will break, and theyāre only good for modding. Just checking, but if I were to use the regular stick until it gave out, would it be too late to mod with sanwa parts?
Since replacement sanwa parts cost $50, would I be better off buying a TE stick?
Hey,
I have modded my SE with SANWA parts 2 weeks ago. however the joystick has stopped working now and it has something to do with the wiring cause the old madcatz joystick also doesnāt work anymore.
When I opened the case it smelled like something burned down. Is it possible some wires have burned? Anyone experienced this also?
I know alot of people have problems with the 5pin connector coming lose but that doesnāt help me.
anyone any ideas? Otherwise i will just throw it away and by a proper stick like the TE.
So Iām thinking about buying this part here. I think itās the same, but the little SK at the end is confusing me. Is this compatible with the SE?
http://www.etokki.com/ArcadeJoysticks/Sanwa%20JLF-TP-8Y-SK%20White
āJLF-TP-8Y-SKā
Any Sanwa JLF will go in.
All Sanwa JLF are the same; some just have different prefixes to show what is added on.
Here the six variations listed in Sanwa Catalog ('07~'08):
JLF-TP-8 is Base JLF.
JLF-TP-8Y is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90.
JLF-TP-8T is Base JLF with JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8YT is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 with JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8S is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 with JLF-P-1S (S Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8Y-SK is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 with JLF-CD (Shaft Cover).
Of course other variations can be done too:
JLF-TP-8-SK, JLF-TP-8T-SK, JLF-TP-8S-SK, JLF-TP-8YT-SK.
Iāll just add this for completeness, since it is JLF:
JLF-TM-8 can do; JLF-TM-8T, JLF-TM-8T-SK, JLF-TM-8S, JLF-TM-8S-SK.
You can use any of those.
JLF-TP-8 you will rotate PCB and use stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate or buy Sanwa JLF-P-1.
JLF-TP-8Y you will use stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate or buy Sanwa JLF-P-1 to mount in Case.
JLF-TP-8T you will rotate PCB and just pop into the Case after removing stock Mad Catz Joystick.
JLF-TP-8YT you will just pop into the Case after removing stock Mad Catz Joystick and mount in Case.
JLF-TP-8S you will remove JLF-P-1S, rotate PCB and use stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate or buy Sanwa JLF-P-1.
(Iām just explaining for some. There are of course more variations.)
You see that I did not mention anything with [SK]?
That is because it is nothing to how Sanwa JLF fit into Mad Catz Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick?.
It is just a Shaft Cover; there for looks.
Once you have a JLF in your hands, rotating the PCB can be done in only five seconds.
It is super easy.
Here is removing Restrictor Gate.
[media=youtube]L67fUfH3S5o[/media]
Here is rotating of PCB.
[media=youtube]dIgCEpBEhng[/media]
If want save money, and shop you are buying from has JLF-TP-8Y cheaper than JLF-TP-8YT, then get JLF-TP-8Y.
Just use the stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate.
But if you donāt want to do the work of unscrewing the stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate off, then buy JLF-TP-8YT.
Some shops sell JLF-TP-8YT with Mounting Plate not pre-installed, so you may have to screw it on yourself.
But if you will be screwing on Mounting Plate, might as well start out with JLF-TP-8Y right?
But installing a Mounting Plate requires taking apart Joystick.
So might as well start out with JLF-TP-8 right?
That doesnāt matter though, as I donāt think Iāve seen shop with JLF-TP-8, just JLF-TP-8Y.
Rotating PCB very simple and quick though.
You want the exact variation of Sanwa JLF that Mad Catz Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick? has?
JLF-TP-8YT.
Even more exact?
JLF-TP-8YT-W; that just means White Ball Top.
You want the exact variation of Sanwa JLF that Mad Catz Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick? Tournament Edition has?
JLF-TP-8YT-SK.
Even more exact?
JLF-TP-8YT-SK-W; that just means White Ball Top.
So, choose which you want.
Choose on how much you want to spend.
Choose on how much work you want to do.
And one last thing to end this Post.
If you will be reusing the stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate, just reuse the screws.
And also, the screws need something to hold onto; they grab on the nuts.
These nuts are located in the stock Mad Catz Joystick.
After you remove the Restrictor Gate, lift off the Joystick PCB.
Underneath, you will then see the four nuts the screws are threading into.
But if for some reason you do not want to reuse the screws and nuts, you can go out to buy.
There is known problem for the screws to strip really super easy.
Get some M3 (3mm) screws of .5mm Pitch at length of 8 or 10mm.
SRK Member MnShredder recommend 8mm because it seems 10mm touch the PCB.
For the nuts, get M3 (3mm) of .5mm Pitch.
If you are not reusing stock Mad Catz Mounting Plate, and just using the one provided with Sanwa JLF, then itās cool.
Jāadore <3, now I can go ahead and order this thing + that ipsin converter. Feels good, thanks for the write up.
Iām pulling on those quick disconnects as hard as I can and canāt dislodge the things. Is there some trick to it?