sounds good. i was thinking about it but wasnt sure if it would mess up anything. right now i just used some electrical tape until i can find/buy a glue gun. thanks.
I bought the Seimitsu LS32 (not the LS32-01) stick for a different project but now am just going to stick it in a madcatz fightstick. Since the LS32 doesnt have the connector how can I connect this stick to the controller, it has the 4 individual pins.
One more question, is the te and se pretty much the same to mod with the LS32 stick and Sanwa screw in buttons?
What you do when installing in Mad Catz is this:
[list]Cut off connector of Mad Catz Wire Harness that goes to Joystick.[/list]
[list]Daisy-chain the Ground Terminals on Seimitsu LS-32 Joystick.[/list]
[list]Connect the wires of Mad Catz onto LS-32 Microswitch.[/list]
http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/8585/madcatzls32wire.png
You see that the wires of Mad Catz Wire Harness are all black.
In my picture, I colored them to be same as Seimitsu Wire Harness.
The position of my colored wires correspond to the black wires of same position.
Same, yes.
Both to modify Joystick and Buttons.
does anyone else have problems with their balltop? everytime i do any motions to the right, the balltop starts to become loose. i have to rescrew it on all the time after each match so i dont have to worry about it coming off. any ideas? i thought it might just be the stick cover, but even when i take it off it still does the same thing, plus without the cover you can see the inside a bit.
Did you tighten it all the way? Did you use a flathead screw driver to push in the nut on the bottom and tighten on the balltop, or did you just put it on after it was all installed?
Friend of mine did that and had the same problem, then he opened the stick again, re-tightened while using the flathead on the bottom, and itâs never come loose since.
ah, i never thought of that, thanks for the tip, when i get the chance i will do that and hopefully it will work. thanks again.
not sure if this is the right topic to ask this in but, i have a button that isnât working on an se stick and i took the button out and put in one of the other buttons that i donât use on the stick in its spot, and replaced the connectors but it still doesnât work is that a pcb problem? and if so are those hard to fix and how?
Any chance they arenât fully pushed onto the button, and maybe came off? And also, the button you put in might be dead, as well.
it was that the other button was dead as well⌠i grabbed one that i knew worked fully and used it and it worked fine. so 2 broken buttons outta 8 right outta the box isnât badâŚright?
Are they stock buttons? If they are, then youâre gonna need to mod in some Sanwa OBSF-30âs. I believe thatâs correct Stock Madcatz parts arenât that greatâŚ
The mad catz buttons suck balls anyway, one of mine broke just when I was removing it and I was VERY careful with them.
Question⌠I am having the same problemâŚ
Did you glue the top of the connector, all around it, just the sides, does it matter??
Is the SE stick mounting plate not compatible with the JLF stick?
EDIT: Nevermind, found my answer in the thread⌠Needs nuts⌠the ones in the se stick are not coming out though
http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/8585/madcatzls32wire.png
So I wired up my Ls 32 stick just like this picture has shown and it doesnt work. The only function that properly works is the down. I can get it to go up but I have to move the stick to the down and right position. What went wrong?
That was my picture.
I actually have the colors the wrong way.
On the PCB, from left to right, it goes:
Ground, Right, Left, Up, Down.
In my drawing, I went from left to right:
Down, Up, Left, Right, Ground.
So switch everything around and things would be good.
If you using Quick Disconnects, then rearrange would be easy.
Super sorry for that.
Iâll redo the picture.
Here is updated.
Sweet, thanks man, that worked. Thanks for all your help.
So im trying to put new art on my joystick, and i go to kinkos and ask them to print out my image and then put a lami label on it but they said they couldnt do it. The guy there said that he could only print an image on top of a white label, and the only place i could get a hold of that would do something like that said it would be like 25$. Am i asking for the wrong thing or something? I tried explaining to a couple places that i need an image printed, with laminate on top and some sort of adhesive on the bottom but they all seem so freaking confused.
i got a problem =/
i was taking off the quick disconnects from my old buttons as I just got my sanwa ones in the mail, and all was going well until I somehow managed to snap off one of the plug terminals that a quick disconnect was on.
so basically, there is snapped off junk in one my quick disconnectsâŚ
i canât get it out, and assuming itâs impossible, iâm still open to any input for what I could do.
I can just have 6 buttons as opposed to 8 right? but the broken quick disconnect is on the purple wire (which goes to the R2 button)âŚ
can I just plug a different wire into the R2 button?
EDIT: yeah I just took the wire from the L2 button and put it into the R2.
works fine, I just have one dead button â but i guess it was never necessary to begin with.
Whats the difference between Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT and JLF-TP-8YT-SK ?
I want to mod my SE stick and I dont know which one to get. Will both work fine with the SE?
BTWâŚlet me get this right since its my first time to mod.
If I want to mod my SE fightstick for the PS3 to all Sanwa, then all I would need is
OBSF-30âs
and a JLF
Thats all right ? And from there, all I do is remove and replace, etcâŚ
BTW, are the JLFâs that Im going to be purchasing, do they come with the PCB ? Or do I have to buy a new one? Because my current PCB is all scratched up and damaged.
All Sanwa JLF are the same; some just have different prefixes to show what is added on.
Here the six variations listed in Sanwa Catalog ('07~'08):
JLF-TP-8 is Base JLF.
JLF-TP-8Y is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90.
JLF-TP-8T is Base JLF with JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8YT is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 with JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8S is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 with JLF-P-1S (S Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8Y-SK is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 with JLF-CD (Shaft Cover).
Of course other variations can be done too:
JLF-TP-8-SK, JLF-TP-8T-SK, JLF-TP-8S-SK, JLF-TP-8YT-SK.
Iâll just add this for completeness, since it is JLF:
JLF-TM-8 can do; JLF-TM-8T, JLF-TM-8T-SK, JLF-TM-8S, JLF-TM-8S-SK
So guess what is difference between JLF-TP-8YT and JLF-TP-8YT-SK.
Laugh.