I finally got my OBSF-30 Sanwa buttons recently and got around to putting them in today. Well my issue is they’re not fitting in, in fact they’re a size too big. I’m sure as i compared the size of the standard SE button to the Sanwa buttons I got, and clearly the diameter seems a few mm’s larger.
Are the Sanwa buttons suppose to be slightly larger?
thank you for this tuto is verry complete, thanks to you i will mod my SE 
You’re putting them in an SE? The OBSF-30s WILL fit. It’s a tighter fit than the stock Madcatz buttons, but they fit. I had to use some force to get them in there.
Thx everyone for the guides/input/tutorials/etc…
Here’s my mod:
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/8025/dsc04959p.jpghttp://img193.imageshack.us/img193/dsc04959p.jpg/1/w320.png
http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/8209/dsc04956.jpghttp://img248.imageshack.us/img248/dsc04956.jpg/1/w320.png
http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/4638/dsc04958s.jpghttp://img117.imageshack.us/img117/dsc04958s.jpg/1/w320.png
Note: My SE stick it’s not from the first shippement, and maybe because of that I didn’t had to file the button next to the joystick.
If i wanted to add 360 support to my PS3 SE stick, is it relatively straightforward?
I can get a pre-wired 360 pad hack but i don’t see how this would be ‘attached’, surely you can’t have 2 pcb setups stuck to one set of buttons\stick?
Gonna trawl the forums for a bit but any help would be cool!
Decided to mod my SE as I finally got my parts.
Swapped out the Ssick with a Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT. I’m pretty sure I didn’t commit any fuck-ups in the process. But now, the stick isn’t working anymore. Does not register any directions. Same as I reconnected the stock stick.
The buttons however are still working fine. So… possible that I fried just the direction-part of the PCB? As said, everything was connected properly. Or should I just try changing out the wire with a new JLF-H?
There is Switch in your Turbo Box.
Set it back to DP.
Laugh.
Hey guys, would you recommend this stick? I’ve heard problems about the first set of shipments but I heard it’s all good now. My first choice was the HFS3 but I saw that with this stick you can change the buttons and joystick very easily. This will be my first stick.
Just to confirm, it’s http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16879216094 this stick right?
How do you guys take off the quick disconnects, i used all my force to take it off and it wont come out. I even tried using a flathead and pliers. How do you take this thing off?
ehm, pliers worked for me, now they come of easy as hell whenever i need to change something.
Screws
I just got my Sanwa parts from Modchipman to replace the SE parts. I bought the Sanwa JLF-P1 Mounting Bracket, only to discover that the SE screws that held up the Madcatz mounting bracket do not fit in the JLF-P1. I subsequently went to Home Depot with my mounting bracket and they told me they do not carry a screw that would fit. What type of screw does the Sanwa JLF-P1 Mounting Bracket need???
anyone else having any problems getting the connectors OFF the buttons of the fightstick? No matter how hard i pull at them they just don’t want to budge!!! Did they put in some sort of super glue that i dont know about?
It is Mounting Plate.
Mounting Bracket is what the Mounting Plate attaches to.
Mounting Bracket is what welded onto your Mad Catz Control Panel.
You did retrieve the nuts from stock Mad Catz Joystick right?
It is needed for the screws to secure the Mounting Plate onto Joystick.
You will see the nuts when you take off the Restrictor Gate and remove Joystick PCB.
But if you want to go out and buy screws and nuts, then it is cool.
Get some M3 (3mm) screws of .5mm Pitch at length of 8 or 10mm.
SRK Member MnShredder recommend 8mm because it seems 10mm touch the PCB.
For the nuts, get M3 (3mm) of .5mm Pitch.
Going to buy an SE stick today. Heard the 2nd round was much better, even though I plan on modding it in the coming months. My question is do I get it from amazon or Capcom store? I want to get the 2nd batch(scared of that washer problem) because it is gonna be a while before I can mod it.
There hasnt been a “first batch” sold in a few months
Cool thanks, just wanted to make sure
I know this is listed on the FAQ first post but I dont see anyone explain whats the difference between the two Sanwa Joysticks JLF-TP-8YT & JLF-TP-8Y?
One of them has JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
All Sanwa JLF are the same; some just have different prefixes to show what is added on.
Here the six variations listed in Sanwa Catalog:
JLF-TP-8 is Base JLF.
JLF-TP-8Y is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90.
JLF-TP-8T is Base JLF with JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8YT is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 with JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8S is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 with JLF-P-1S (S Mounting Plate).
JLF-TP-8Y-SK is Base JLF with the TP-MA (PCB) rotated 90 with JLF-CD (Shaft Cover).
Of course other variations can be done too:
JLF-TP-8-SK, JLF-TP-8T-SK, JLF-TP-8S-SK, JLF-TP-8YT-SK.
I’ll just add this for completeness, since it is JLF:
JLF-TM-8 can do; JLF-TM-8T, JLF-TM-8T-SK, JLF-TM-8S, JLF-TM-8S-SK.
Is there any clear advantage in having the JLF-P-1 (Flat Mounting Plate) to go with the stick?
I used both HRAP (8Y) and TE (8YT) but can’t really tell the difference.
Some HRAP have 8Y, and some HRAP have 8YT.
The Mounting Plate is just so the Joystick can secure onto Control Panel through Mounting Bracket.
(HRAP with the 8Y just mounting directly to Mounting Bracket through those two tabs on JLF.)
There is no advantage in having JLF-P-1 or not for using Joystick to play games.
