The how to mod your SFIV SE Fightstick FAQ

is there a tutorial out there for modding a 360 se fightstick with a cthulu board and making it a mulit console stick?

This is something I’d like to avoid. I’m wondering what the real cost of a mod’ed SE vs. just getting a TE. Maybe I’d be better off starting off with the TE and only changing art? Though the mods here look very cool…

i went through the thread and couldnt find an answer… but…

does anyone know if the stick that came in the T5 stick swap easily with the madcatz stick?:sweat:

Just wanted to give major props again to Sileighty for making this tutorial thread (finished my stick today), also i must say that the feel of the sanwa parts compared to the stock parts is like night and day…much more smooth and fluid. :tup:

Thanks to tips and guides from this thread here’s my stick with Sanwa OBSF-30 buttons and a Seimitsu LS-32-01 stick

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t153/poserdonut/th_IMG_0805.jpg

On my SE including tax + shipping on various things I’ve spent $135ish.

That includes a JLF, 6 OBSFs, black vinyl dye, custom artwork, and random replacement screws. It’s still a good $20 cheaper and completely custom to my likings.

To be completely honest the main reason I wanted the TE was of two things: the extra hand space near the stick and the cable compartment. I’ve since gotten used to the smaller space and I’m beginning to prefer the feel of the SE. The taper on the end is really comfortable and I don’t think a cable storage compartment is that big of a selling point anyway :p.

Possible dual PCB setup

OK, so after several hours of reading, I think I finally understand what I need to do to get my 360 SE stick + PS3/PC cthulhu board wired for use in both the 360 and PS3. I want to have two USB cables coming out of my stick, and I’m using a solderless method that ShinJN mentioned in one of his youtube videos. Can someone look over this diagram and tell me if this would work?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v54/supernovajm/SF4DualModDiagram.jpg

If this is all correct, I should be able to do this without soldering at all. I was planning on using the VCC and Ground that go to the turbo PCB, since the actual USB cable’s 5V on the Mad Catz PCB isn’t on a ribbon connector (so i would have to solder). Note that all of the connections are made on the ribbon connectors, not the quick disconnects. It seemed much easier to attempt it this way.

One more thing: I was planning on using 26AWG for all of this, is that going to be sufficient for all the connections?

I just got my SE. I’ve been reading that you can avoid alot of headaches by just super glueing the washer down. Can someone PM me exactly which washer I’m supposed to glue down.

Hey, I’ve been wondering how would you go and put screw in buttons instead of snap in buttons in the fight stick? I heard that only snap ins work and screw in buttons require extra modding to get them fit in. And then some people say screw in buttons should fit in perfectly already. The buttons I have in mind are the Seimitsu PS-14-KN’s btw.

I keep hearing both and I’m not sure, so can you guys help me out? Appreciate it!

Screw ins will require that you dremel a single button, I believe.

This should all work fine. I don’t think it matters where you draw the VCC and Ground from as long as you have it wired to the Cthulhu.

Ho snap, what size LEDs did you use for that, and any advice you could give if I decided to undertake that project?

I gave my stick a full Sanwa makeover.
I removed the tabs from the buttons to make it fit easier.

JLF + shaft cover
6x OBSF blue and 2x OBSF black
Octogate

Also the button layout has been changed:

B X Y LB
A RT LT RB

http://pic02.smoothpic.com/image.php?image=vvZILq_madcatz_se_sanwa.jpg

I can’t believe that it feels so much better.

Button more responsive, less clicking noise, no more stuck buttons.
Stick make a nice clicking sound, the SE stick only clicked in 2 directions.
Stick has a smoother feel overall.

Hey Sileighty, thanks for this very informative thread. I don’t think I would have had the guts to under take this mod (This is my first stick) without your step by step directions.

I just finished the Sawna swap for the stick and buttons and love the new feel of the parts. The new buttons definitely give me a ā€œqualityā€ feel. The buttons seem to ā€œfloatā€ around the ridge instead of getting stuck like the SE ones. The stick actually ā€œclicksā€ equally in all directions now (my SE stick would make a loud click when I would go left but could barely feel/hear it going to the right).

I’m very happy with the outcome, now wondering if I should have gotten a little bit more creative with the stick/botton colors, rofl. :looney:

Ok…i’ve done a lot of reading…video watching…etc.

the mod for the SE stick was fairly easy…UNTIL I came across a problem that I haven’t seen addressed ( i didn’t go through all pages…but I went through some…)

  • The buttons went in fine…
  • The new gate went on the new stick fine…
  • My screws WERE stripping when removing the plate from the stick but I applied a lot of
    pressure orque and got them out.

Here’s where the problem starts…i have a Sanwa JLF…looks almost like the stock madcatz stick that was pulled out…

when i put the plate back on the stick to insert the srcrews…they just fell in…i though wow…these screws are too small…i look inside the stick where the screws should go for the mounting plate…there are NO metal threads (female) inside…JUST THE PLASTIC…i’m like…WTF…
what the hell am I supposed to do now???
no way to screw the plate onto the stick?!?!

EDIT:
BAH…figured it out…took the stock stick apart…and realized there were nuts inside that i could pop out…
took the new stick and popped the nuts in…problem solved…
damn new stick had no nuts…

Thats weird…
I unscrewed the stock stick and used those screws to put back the JLF.
No nuts whatsoever.

The only Madcatz crap I ran into was that 1 hole was stripped, it had no more thread.
So the stick is screwed down with 3 screws.

Did anyone else pull the quick disconnect connectors off of the Madcatz buttons when removing the QD’s? I had to throw away two buttons…

yeah i effed up one of them.
ya try to pull gently…but firmly…and still …BAM…one flew all over the place…

My stick didn’t have nutz either!

Oh well, it works great now. Thanks for all the help posted here.

Same here! I tried to put them back together but couldn’t figure it out. They’re throw away pieces but i’d like to keep all the stock parts just in case.