has anyone ever tried to use the spring from the hori ex2 in their se fightstick
yeah i had my hori ex2 first now i have the se fightstick with sanwa buttons… i just got from a secret place xD … also iam waiting on my Ls 32-01 from gremlins… but i do think the hori is better in some ways not all.
Yep from Gremlin. I’ve never used a Hori stick so I can’t compare. I’ll you to my friends list, I play most evenings. I’m also scared the pcb will be damaged before I get the sanwa parts 
I can’t seem to charge down-back -> dash on this stick :<
also does anyone know to to take out the spring in the se fightstick joystick… thanks
Sup guys…SE MC Fightstick owner, got it on SF4 release day, played for a few days, started sticking, glued washer down. 2 weeks later stop responding. Got pissed, put it up for a week. order Sanwa parts from LL on March 3rd. (they are still shipping march 1st) Finally called Madcatz and told them I voided my warranty, dude still sent me a new stick (he asked me were I got it from, EB) got the new stick 2 days ago (stock SE), put it in and still no response. I checked for the breaks in PCB, none, had some of the opoxy (redish) glue on there, wiped it off and pushed all my wires in place just incase. Started working (yea!!!), two days later UP stop responding…similar feeling I had with it when I first got it. WTF!!! Can’t seem to figure out if its my wires are being disconnected or its just the shitty SE stock stick. First time Modder and it is going very bad. Even when my parts get here, could it be an electrical issue? Help pls. I had just unlocked all of RYU’s trails and was stoked 2 nights ago and then this! Am I screwed, is my PCB shot?
Any advice or similar accounts would greatly be appreciated, and the new patch out today, i’m not a happy camper…should of just bought the TE, I’ve spent roughly $135 on parts and Art and such anyways.
Thx in advance
You’ll have to pop off the restrictor plate (the clear plastic piece on bottom of the stick) it’s a pain in the ass. Then remove the PCB/Microswitch assembly (the four black boxes soldered to the green circuit). Then remove the e-clip from the joystick shaft (good luck, that fucker is on tighter than it needs to be). After that, just slide the actuator (the black plastic piece). There is your spring.
Sounds like the wiring harness on the pcb is loose, try pushing it back down again and see if it works again.
Thx man. Is there a way to tighten it or should I try taping it with electrical tape?
I have been trying to play Guile and Balrog and Geif lately. Maybe a bit rough with it. Could this be the cause of the wires getting loose?
most likely not that case.
Its either the stock parts are going shitty (because they are shitty) or it is your execution.
hey does anyone have any info on the springs that are in the joystick … se fightstick… .like i have mine apart right now … and waiting on my ls 32-01 from gremilin … i wanted to know … what do i have to do to make it tighter … like the throw for example?
because i took the spring from my hori ex 2 and combined with the se and that shit was super short and tough … but i want to know … like it i pull it… or push it down to make it tighter thanks
My MC SE Fightstick Modding Experience
So, I finally got my parts from LizardLick the other day. The shipping was super fast out to California (ignoring the backorder status situation of course.) I had ordered all Sanwa replacement buttons but decided to only get a replacement octo gate instead of a full joystick replacement. I know that the stock stick is supposed to be poor by comparison, but I have had no problems with it other than the square gate not feeling right to me.
Thanks to this thread, replacing things went much easier than I had expected.
So I was presented with two challenges:
The first challenge is that supposedly the Sanwa buttons (screw in type not snap ins) all fit perfectly except the last one which is too close to the side wall/mounting plate near the joystick. Other posters apparently had to sand down the plastic screw washer to get the button to fit, but mine went very easily. The trick for me was that I put this button in first. I also wedged the screw into the groove of the wall and then screwed the button into it from the underside instead of popping the button in first and threading the screw down (if that makes sense.) This strategy worked out well and I didn’t have to sand anything down. From there the rest of the buttons screwed in very easily.
The second challenge was removing the stock gate. This was the mother of all pains for me. After unsuccessfully trying to pry the original gate off with screwdrivers and putty knives for almost a 1/2 hour, I was ready to give up. Dremel to the rescue! For anyone wanting to just replace the octo gate on the stock MC stick, save yourself a lot of time and frustration - Use a dremel and just cut that sucker off and throw it in the garbage. After that I snapped on the new octo gate and I am now a very happy Street Fighter!
My thanks to the Shoryuken community and thanks to Lizard Lick.
If only MadCatz had built a higher quality product worthy of the lofty entry price to begin with…
For all you guys that’s already completed the mods, I’m just curious, I have some Sawna parts coming from Modchipman and was wondering what to expect after replacing the stock parts.
I understand that the Sanwa stick/buttons will be “better quality”, however does this mean that the stick will have a tighter spring/more resistance to better the accuracy of the inputs? Or perhaps my Sawna buttons will be springier?
I’m a bit of noob when it comes to sticks, do you guys even think that I will notice a difference of Stock vs Sawna (i’ve been using the stock SE now for about 3 weeks).
My joystick and buttons came today in the mail, will mod in a couple days.
Has anyone’s Madcatz (SE) joystick just suddenly stopped working during gameplay? Or their turbo button doesn’t respond when activated for a while?
The Sanwa buttons are much more sensitive, pushing the buttons with just enough force to slide a sheet of paper across a hardwood table is all you need.
Also, the switches in the joystick don’t have as loud a click to them as the stock does.
my madcatz fighstick SE’s stock stick won’t register many of the inputs. After reading his thread and others I think I have the PCB grinding problem of the washers. I’m debating whether to send it to madcatz or to just buy a new sanwa stick.
SOOOOO…
Noob Question: Do I need to buy a new PCB and a sanwa stick? Or Can I use the same broken pcb from the stock and switch the sticks?
Basically…does the new sanwa stick come with its own PCB or when I swap it in will it be using the stock stick’s PCB? If it doesn’t show clearly…I will state the obvious. I don’t know what the hell a PCB is and what it does, so that is why my question seems stupid.
thanks in advance.
When you buy a Sanwa stick, it will come with its own PCB. Then all you’ll have to do is take the stock stick out, and put the Sanwa stick in. And by stick, I mean everything that comes with it. Not just the shaft and the balltop.
If I buy a JLF-TP-8YT, can I use the stock screws that came with my SE fight stick and use those to mount my JLF-TP-8YT?
If you mean the screws on the mounting plate that DON’T hold the actual black part with the shaft, not really. It’s hard to take those out because they strip. But the screws on the outer edges of the mounting plate 4 on each corner, yes. I used those to mount the plate to the case.