Was able to order the sanwa joystick and buttons today from arcadeshop de, but the octo gate was still out of stock…i’ll just keep checking back
per TheRealNeoGeo, the nuts/bolts that fit those mounting plates are M3 8mm.
:lovin:
excellent post, thank you
@rajendra82: Thanks - I’m just curious as to what size I need. I have the screws/bolts but need a matching nut (lol) for them.
It confuses me as to why the JLF-TP-8T I just got doesn’t already have the nuts preinstalled into the joystick, as the stock JLF-TP-8T is MEANT to come with a mounting plate installed on it (where in my case, mine did not come with mounting plate). This has got me thinking that maybe I have a fake Sanwa JLF-TP-8T? Do they even make fakes? Reason why I’m questioning authenticity is not purely based on this, but also because the box it came shipped in looks dodgy (does not look like the normal Sanwa JLF box that I usually see)…
Here’s a few pics of the box my JLF was shipped in:
http://img5.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=img0010poj.jpg
Looks like a Chinese knock off (based on the Hua Kang International Pty Ltd written on the box and the model number). However, when I compare the JLF-TP-8T that I just received from in2amusements.com.au, against the JLF-TP-8YT that I purchased from Aki`shop, the individual components look exactly the same; Square gate restrictor is SANWA stamped, actual joystick itself is SANWA stamped, uses OMRON microswitches - all except the PCB serial numbers: JLF-TP-8T S/N is SN-05001N 1 and JLF-TP-8YT S/N is SN-05001N 2.
Here’s a link to the JLF-TP-8T I bought, looks legit and all. But now I’m doubting it’s legitness 
http://www.arcadeparts.com.au/shop/index.php/27/237_Sanwa_Joystick__4/8_Way_JLF-TP-8T
Someone a couple of posts above said that the nuts should be for M3 size bolts (which means that the hole in the nut is supposed to be for a 3 mm diameter bolt). He also said they should be 8 mm size (which I think is referring to the outer dimension of the nut itself).
When I go to bolt depot’s page for metric stainless steel nuts (http://www.boltdepot.com/product.aspx?cc=15&cs=201&cm=19), I think what you need to pick up is something matching product 4773, because those 3 mm nuts match M3 bolts which are normally .50 pitch. Since you are not in US, you should be able to get these M3 nuts at a local hardware store, they are a bit more rare around here.
If your Sanwa JLF did not come with a mounting plate attached, you did not get the 8T model, what you got could be the 8Y model, if it’s legit. If the mounting plate is removed, these nuts should just fall off, as there is nothing holding them in the holes under those conditions.
@rajendra82: Thanks a lot for your help buddy, I’ll give my local hardware shop a go and see what I can get. I’m quite sure the stick is legit because I have been comparing the stick against my JLF-TP-8YT and the individual components are exactly identical (minus the missing nuts in the JLF-TP-8T/8Y - whichever it actually is).
I think maybe the reason why in2amusements shipped the legit stick in a non-legit box maybe because he didn’t have a legit sanwa box and needed to keep it safe in transit. (shrugs)
Anyways, one last question. In the JLF-TP-8YT, the nuts are secured by what seems to be red glue? Refer to next pic:
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/3871/img0015sre.jpg
So how do I secure the nuts that I need to buy into my new stick (i.e. what should I buy?) Refer to next pic:
http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/2955/img0019gpy.jpg
Thanks again for your all help! :wgrin:
Hot glue would work fine and is fairly easy to remove.
what is upw ith the rainbow wires that came with my sanwa stick?
In that case, I wonder if it’s possible to remove the nuts from the JLF-TP-8YT that is in my HFS3 stick.
I suppose you could remove the nuts on the other stick, but then the stick would not longer stay connected to the mounting plate it’s hooked up to now. Don’t you want both to be mounted?
The JLF-TP-8YT in my Hori FS3 does not use any mounting plate and is mounted directly onto the top panel of the stick with screws that came with the Hori FS3 as you can see in the picture below; so the nuts in the 8YT are currently not being used at all. Now the only question that remains is, is there a way for me to pry the nuts out as they’ve been secured by that weird red hotglue?
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/3871/img0015sre.jpg
EDIT: sweet, I was able to pry one out with a small flathead screwdriver; it’s kind of hard but I think I’ll be able to get all 4 out.
EDIT 2: OK I got them all out, and transferred them into the 8T/8Y (whichever it really is) and was about to get the mounting plate secured. I had to hold the nuts down with a tiny flat head screwdriver whilst screwing the mounting plate on because they weren’t being secured by hotglue or anything, like they were in the 8YT. Thanks for everyone’s help with my prob
Damnit, just found out that my SE stick was held up by customs and had to get the seller to clarify some issue around the “value” of the package he was sending. Sorted out now but seems as though I need to wait another darn week to receive it! 
Oh well, guess it leaves time to wait for my buttons and balltops from aki`shop to arrive.
I have the same/similar issue, but clarification greatly appreciated.
I have the JLF-TP-8Y (as specified by OP) which requires re-use of the stock SE mounting plate. However, the screws are too small for the holes on the JLF, and moreover the cylindrical holes on the JLF are unthreaded. What’s the chat? Am I meant to screw the 16-32 x s directly into the plastic of the JLF?
I have a “2nd wave” SE (about a week old) if that makes any difference.
Cheers guys.
I have the first wave SE and the holes in the plastic housing were untreaded. just like the JLF. There are small nuts inside the cylindrical holes that match up with the mounting plate bolts. Once you take the old plate off, you’d need to recover them for mounting the JLF. Should be the same for second wave SE unless they changed the design.
I’ll have another look tonight, but my stock SE stick (2nd wave) has metal threaded holes.
How do the nuts stay in place on your stock/JLF? What’s to stop them from falling out and the stick thereby disengaging from the mounting plate?
See the pictures of the JLF nuts posted on the previous page by huey. On my stock JLF 8YT the bolts for the mounting plate screw into these nuts sitting inside the plastic cavity. The SE disassmebled showed the same setup. You won’t see those nuts unless you take out the PCB. If you need to buy these nuts, they are M3 50 pitch nuts. Boltdepot will sell them. Unless they are hotglued in place, once you unscrew the bolts, the nuts will fall out. Once bolted in though, they will stay in place.
What are the size of the screws that attach the mounting plate to the body?
Wne did this “Second Wave” of SE stick come out?
Where are u buying these se sticks?
Reported size
M3, 10 mm long, 0.50 pitch, Phillips flat head