The how to mod your SFIV SE Fightstick FAQ

[System_1]

i just did this mod. the only hard part was getting the sanwa obsf30’s to fit in the holes. the buttons all have these 4 little bumps that stop the button from going in completely smooth. i guess the bumps are there to keep the button from spinning in place once they are installed. anyway, i didn’t want to put too much force on the button so i just filed those bumps down a little. after filing, the buttons went in real smooth and easy.

i also re-wired the buttons since i use the straight-6 layout and wanted to have the default button config match what i use. the wires for the LB, LT, RB, and RT just barely reach when you do this, but they will reach.

[System_1]

i just did this mod. the only hard part was getting the sanwa obsf30’s to fit in the holes. the buttons all have these 4 little bumps that stop the button from going in completely smooth. i guess the bumps are there to keep the button from spinning in place once they are installed. anyway, i didn’t want to put too much force on the button so i just filed those bumps down a little. after filing, the buttons went in real smooth and easy.

i also re-wired the buttons since i use the straight-6 layout and wanted to have the default button config match what i use. the wires for the LB, LT, RB, and RT just barely reach when you do this, but they will reach.

I had to struggle with the bumps a little too. The knockoff stock buttons have these bumps too. The quality of MatCatz holes is however is inconsistent. Two of the holes on my stick (L1, L2) were a bitch to get the OBSF-30s into, but other six were in nice and easy. One of the stock buttons (X) MadCatz installed was a bit small and was spinning around in the hole, but the OBSF-30 I put in does not do that. I just pressed (not hammered) hard on the replacement Sanwa buttons, and they eventually went in flush without the need for filing. Everything tested out fine so I was satisfied.

[System_1]

That’s really strange. I will say another thing that helps is removing everything but the stick and the mounting plate (gate, microswitches, all that good stuff) and putting it on that way. With everything in the way it’s hard to get at the screws from the proper angle, and being tilted a little to the side could create the problem you’re having.

If that doesn’t work though, I think you’re off to Home Depot

Everthing but the actuator and the spring, because the LS-32 uses a C-Ring instead of the typical E-Clip, and according to Slagcoin :

Unlike all the other joysticks listed here, the bottom of the LS-32 shaft is secured with a C-ring instead of an E-ring. It is usually removed with special pliers, but it can be removed by looping a couple wires through the hooks and pulling hard; but if you want to put the ring back on using wires, you may need help from one or two people. Yet you can just replace the C-ring with a 7/16" (11mm) E-ring from a hardware store; it is kind of large and does not fit as snugly, but it does work.

[System_1]

I had this EXACT same problem when I installed my LS-32-01. The screws would start to go in okay, make it about halfway, then grind to a halt, like it was starting to get cross threaded or something. I even tried using a small bit of WD-40 on the screws but to no avail. Thinking maybe a small part of the thread was bent or something I tried forcing one, only to sheer the top of the screw right off.

Ultimately, I used some screws i had laying around that seemed smaller (6-32x1/2), which screwed in fine but were of course too long. When I went back to trying the included screws again though, I was able to get 3 of them in.

So, perhaps trying a slightly smaller screw first will help fix the problem (straighten up the threads or something, I’m really just guessing here). If I were to replace the stick again, I would try some different/better screws from HD/Lowes and ditch the included screws, so maybe that’s a better solution for you currently.

Hmm I’ll head to homedepot today…with my stick.

Edit-
Great I got to selfish and tried to force the screw in now its stripped with the screw half way in. Can homedepot help me get this out?

[System_1]

i had the original screw tilted 5 degrees outward for all 4corner. screwed in fine.

[Merkicus]

Cracking my stick open but so far a bunch of buttons don’t work and my stick doesn’t work either.

[System_1]

Ok I went to Lowes the guy help me take off the screw with a pair of pliers.

Then he installed some Allan Screws(not sure if thats how u call them) now my seimitsu is on TIGHT. XD.

Ok I tested my stick apparently something is wrong with the pcb? it only reads down motion and makes a click…its makes a click for the other motions but no movement.

Nvm chad told me how to fix it by plugging the switch the other way XD.

[System_1]

Ok, after getting my JLF’s & Sanwa buttons in the mail and upgrading both my SE sticks, I’m back. BIIIIG thanks again to Sileighty and everyone else for posting this incredibly helpful thread.

The modding wasn’t a problem at all - the guide on page 1 was awesome & perfect and everything switched out neatly.

My problem is this: one of my SE sticks works perfectly now but the other won’t register any down movements Down, DB, DF. All other directions work fine as do the buttons.

This is the stick that I had to put away after two days of initial play (the stock SE stick) because it stopped registering down altogether. I thought it was the PCB that was getting scratched up, but obviously not.

Previous people on this thread have posted about glue at the connection points - there was some glue that I cleared out and now it’s completely clean of foreign substance. I’ve checked for loose wires. Nothing.

Any further advice for a tech-challenged person? Is the harness the JLF comes with my next line of defense? I took a quick look at it and can’t make heads or tails of it. If it requires any soldering or anything complex, that’s out

Does this sound like a wiring issue? Will I need to return the stick to madcatz for a new one (assuming they’ll honor the warranty?)

Would appreciate any and all help!!

[Merkicus]

Cracking my stick open but so far a bunch of buttons don’t work and my stick doesn’t work either.

Whoops - I had forgotten one of the disconnects and had the joystick plugged in wrong.

[System_1]

Thanks for the guide, had to use it to swap the default MadCatz buttons around, moved the black ones to where the first white ones are as the jab button was acting odd (not responding randomly, rarely but still it’s gamebreaking)

Can’t wait for my Sanwa stick and buttons to come though, good write up. :wgrin:

The quick disconnects on my stick grazed my fingers pretty badly though.

[System_1]

Okay guys, help me out. I’m doing a little “surgery” on my SE and TE and I need some advice. I’m relatively new to Japanese sticks, my SE and TE have really been my introduction to them. Before this I was a “Happs Competition for life!!!1!!1!” kind of guy…

I’m looking for a responsive stick with a snappy feel and a circular gate. I have the TE with the JLF and I like it, but it could return to center a bit faster. So if I’m going to swap out the spring, which one do I want? LL lists these, plus I’ll note the other ones I have around.

JLF spring
JLW spring
Ls-32 spring
LS-33 spring
LS-56 spring
MadCatz SE spring

As far as sticks go, knowing what I mentioned before, I feel like I have 3 stick options for my SE…

JLF with spring replacement and octo gate.

LS-32-01, which I understand has the snappy feel I desire but does it have a round restrictor?

Keep the original SE stick (did the washer fix) and install a Sanwa TP-MA Replacement PCB Switch Assembly, replace the spring and octo gate.

Any thoughts?

[System_1]

I am sure this has been asked before, but how do you get artwork to show in your button. Does the plunger come off and you slide the artwork into it?

[raeli]

I am sure this has been asked before, but how do you get artwork to show in your button. Does the plunger come off and you slide the artwork into it?

Seimetsu plungers come off, yes. There’s a guide to doing this on the forums.

[System_1]

Can someone look over my parts list. I am customizing a SE and want to make sure these parts all fit with no conflicts. THanks

Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT-SK Ball Handle Joystick, 4 & 8-Way Adjustable

Sanwa LB-30-N Joystick Bat Top

Sanwa Joystick Adapter

Seimitsu 30mm Colored Body with Clear Plunger

[beastSPL]

Can someone look over my parts list. I am customizing a SE and want to make sure these parts all fit with no conflicts. THanks

Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT-SK Ball Handle Joystick, 4 & 8-Way Adjustable

Sanwa LB-30-N Joystick Bat Top

Sanwa Joystick Adapter

Seimitsu 30mm Colored Body with Clear Plunger

you should be fine! all that stuff will fit no problem.

[System_1]

If I plug the last 2 buttons on the SE and cover with artwork does it look seemless, or can you tell they are covered. does it bump out?

[System_1]

I didnt bother looking over this thread, but just saying this if it helps anyone im sure its been mentioned already though:

If the Up, left and right arent working after u finish installing stick, just turn the connector around (one that goes to stick) to the yellow side facing up. That should do it.

Test out your stick BEFORE putting the back lid on. That should save you some trouble.

[doomiej]

Thanks for this guide. Modded my stick up with a Sanwa JLF and some Sanwa buttons. Took me maybe 20 minutes thanks to this. Also, only needed the one screwdriver. Everything worked out perfectly. Thanks much Sleighty!! Now gotta use that art replacement guide…and ill be lookin good!

[System_1]

for those who have experience with modded sticks is there a real difference in the feel between Sanwa and Seimitsu buttons? thanks

[DJKamealon]

Hood, there’s been a post or 2 on that as well…they’re basically like Honda and Nissan…same type, same model, same feel basically…just depends on what YOU like…that’s the analogy I got…I went with Seimitsu, more variety of colors on buttons and their stick worked with my SE, so I went with that and didn’t have to buy an S brakcet…