The Hori PS4 VLX thread

[Minotaur64]

i just got mine

Pics pics pics

Also, can you check your top panel, see if its flush or not (like mine)

[Jannodude]

@Minotaur64

I’ll have to play around a little more with the Hayabusa and determine if I need to make that swap. I’m loving the Sanwa + silencers though! I’ll keep you updated if I do swap my joystick. I’ll also check if my panel is flushed when I get home!

[Alerhan]

my kuro is still flush and I’ve had it for about 6 months now i think

[Zexal]

Just noticed GameStop is selling the Kuro VLX online. Might be a great option if you got some credit saved up.

[Nucking_Futs]

Good idea but GS charges tax in most states whereas Arcade Shock charges only in Cali’ (if at all). Unless your credit at GS is mostly (or all) trade-in.

[Jannodude]

@Minotaur64

Both my sides are flush, I’m blessed to have no cancer spots on the cord door as well.

[Digital]

@minotaur64

my kuro vlx top panel is flat, sucks that yours came like that.

@Jannodude

hayabusa lever is similar to a Sanwa JLF but has less friction resulting in an easier to move lever. Some people describe it as ‘looser’. Depending on your needs and wants this might be good or bad. Personally, I prefer the lever needing less force required to input motions.

[Darksakul]

I just noticed something about the my kuro vlx

http://i68.tinypic.com/11jw7sz.jpg
http://i64.tinypic.com/2qc3228.jpg

Both sides of the top panel are slightly raised – Not flush like the rest of the panel. Is this normal? Do y’all have the same going on with your sticks? Does it pertain only to a certain model(s) of vlx?

I’ve searched the first 15 pages of this thread and found nothing about this.

I would check my stick for a similar “defect” but I don’t have the stock panel any more, I have a Custom 6 button Sega layout panel from @“Jasen Hicks” .
His panels does not have this defect.

Is the panel like that all of the time, or did you have it in the sun or something?

[mR_CaESaR]

@Minotaur64 my OG VLXs don’t have that flex (PS3 and 360)

[velvetdon25]

I opened up the inside of my VLX Diamond’s pcb to have a look at the connectors and took some pictures. First time modder so I’ll definitely fudge up some terminologies for wires and parts… I hope I can get some help here.

http://i.imgur.com/ZkiTWMc.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/rHin55M.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/G1cfRKY.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/xhgCWDH.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/tZasGMH.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/wDodyl3.jpg?1

and here is a image from SRK member UKK’s thread from a couple years ago that shows him connecting the stock USB to the ps360+.

http://i.imgur.com/UQ9k1Pk.jpg

So I assume that means that I just need to buy the correct male JST PH/EH connectors and solder them onto the Brook UFB and connect the female JST PH/EH and it should work…?

Edit: I went to a DIY electronic store and asked the guy that works there. He said that I need to contact Brooks and ask what size are the terminals (?) to fit the male connectors. Would anyone happen to know?

[Digital]

I connected my OG VLX usb without the need of soldering. I took the existing usb cable, took the end wires out of the female connector then lined them into a terminal strip. Cut a male end of another USB cable and stripped the wires apart and connected them to the other side of the terminal strip and then connected teh male USB into the PCB USB port.

I don’t know how to solder so I did it like this and it came out extremely clean. now that I think about it, you might be able to connect the usb directly to the usb header on the paradise arcade shop version of the universal fight board without having to remove the wire ends from the female connector.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rLBq3NGYIrnAdEDRo3UWWPtmGCAyLaw0bofHYpZ8-VTA1fIxusAdfUk_5DA7BwLiDS9uV_i9A7cyB197ClieGCecR9Z9aNtk2D4totLoB0e81LUT4kfqGAEitdUy5IP4GrZr0OrTE61jM82YXIP4hjxvVecg1nlJh46Lu6JO5MeQNuLrajyNOfN6r-7tNkwehpZsonwhChYUzmwEDCZLobTaw2aDfqe57KvMX5ZdnNRpoINOWgBxv91i4iVRtXNXbdGOKEJamGG1mm9y-fkJF3iW6uqwiDv74FZWSPRRRkY6uVdfFUe0Y3n6bFz8L4WOF29g3qVoP2UCC5fE7Z82NppqYBvwv-vwiz6fg6FJRW48ZDvgwij7EguMzeYCv_WLulSAW2qIV31leyAfoDJNesgkYJXCzhfeLkWjK8N9ScDuivXJLNHplFbPOMNUkTWvaKGSYaDNQAm3MF7eg2nksm6lDIZHZtFId2jVqJMdf7Bfp2Wlj31_uVU5xN0aFfPXopXIr6hZczRrpWqBqQARey83T0O0TxZmqV2iYsMrH-duk4h_pLf3_Wh436leE1sXyKK_=w481-h955-no

[UnheardOf]

So, this is my first real fight stick… and I’m fairly new to fighting games (PC RTS player)… but even as a noob I feel this stick is exceptionally well put together. I’ve really enjoyed it so far and in less than a week I feel more confident on it than my ps4 controller. I have a question though, do you notice a little play or slack in the joystick while in center position? It’s not a lot, but you can rotate slightly and feel there’s a bit of free play. Are there modifications that can tighten that or make the movement a bit more firm? I’m not sure if this is the same for all joysticks because I’m not very experienced with many.

The small amount of slack is normal for most hori and sanwa jlf sticks. You’ll probably get used to it over time. If it keeps bugging you a stiffer spring may help a little and seimitsu makes some joysticks that have stiffer springs and may have a little less play. Slagcoin.com is a good site to read up on some of the different models.

I ended up ordering a Phreak Mods Link, 1mm oversized actuator, 2lb tension spring, and a Sanwa Denshi Wooden Bat Top. Sexy photos will be posted when complete!

[Jannodude]

@minotaur64

my kuro vlx top panel is flat, sucks that yours came like that.

@Jannodude

hayabusa lever is similar to a Sanwa JLF but has less friction resulting in an easier to move lever. Some people describe it as ‘looser’. Depending on your needs and wants this might be good or bad. Personally, I prefer the lever needing less force required to input motions.

I’m starting to get the hang of using a stick, my only trouble is doing a QCF x2 on P1 side consistenly. My dashing, jumping, stringing combos have been slowly improving as I practice. I took a big jump to leave the Hitbox and play on Stick…

[EVAC434]

I can’t exactly tell from the pictures, but does the Kuro have a mirror finish panel and is the Hayabusa matte silver? Is one more scratch resistant than the other (if there’s a difference)?

[Tensho]

All panels have a thick clear layer on the art that can’t be separated from the art, all can be scratched pretty easy(but buffed out)
Lots of use makes many hairline scratches in circles around the stick levers dust cover on the panel etc.

[rygod]

as you may have read in an earlier post …

even the cleaning cloth supplied by Hori with the VLX Kuro will scratch the top panel surface!!!

Don’t use that darn cleaning cloth except to dry your sweaty palms!

DONT DO IT!

[RagingAvatar]

Really? So what do you use instead? (I’ve been using the cloth I have a Hayabusa VLX)

[Tensho]

A soft microfiber cloth, Hori one is pretty rough

[rygod]

I switched to using my glasses cleaning cloth

then I got a JCC panel and don’t worry about scratches at all anymore!

as extra protection though after seeing so many OG VLX pics with paint missing where the palms rest on the metal, I sport nitrile glovesduring each session.

why do palms sweat anyways!? useless

[FreedomGundam]

I switched to using my glasses cleaning cloth

I never bothered to use the stock cleaning cloth; I used a glasses cleaning cloth from the get-go.