The small amount of slack is normal for most hori and sanwa jlf sticks. You’ll probably get used to it over time. If it keeps bugging you a stiffer spring may help a little and seimitsu makes some joysticks that have stiffer springs and may have a little less play. Slagcoin.com is a good site to read up on some of the different models.
Wow… Beautiful collection. Got a question for you Bro, did you had in mind to swap out your Hayabusa stick? I for the longest had a JLF with the oversized Kowal Acuator and 2lb. spring in my shopping cart. I did a lot of reading and quite a few like the Hayabusa. I find dashing a little challenging coming from a Hitbox. I haven’t ordered the JLF but might experiement with that same set up…
Question for you guys. If I bought a pre soldered Brook UFB from Paradisearcades and used it on a PS3 Hori VLX would it be possible to directly connect the ls/dp/rs switch, usb, turbo, and select to the soldered UFB board without needing to chop off any wires and soldering to the board? Would really like to keep the VLX as original as possible without having to cut or drill. Jasen has confirmed that the ezmod is only for PS3/PS4 VLX (Kuro/Hayabusa) sticks. So I was wondering if any other alternatives.
@velvetdon25
I dunno how the original wiring to the OG VLX is, but I don’t see why it wouldn’t be possible. If you don’t want to cut the original cabling, you can always try to make “mating” adapters for the stock cables.
Of course, that might also be dependent on whether things are common ground or not, and that kind of stuff.
No, it is not possible to do without modification.
Its not impossible just follow what Freedom gundam says. As a place to start you can ask Jasen what type of female connectors he uses for the ezmod and then see if that will fit the turbo panel. Then just connect the male connectors to the female connectors and run wires from the female connectors to the UFB. But yea research will need to be done to check if its common ground and which wires send which signal.
A simpler way is just to buy Jasen’s new replacement turbo panel. You will also get an extra button and u can just keep the turbo panel aside somewhere.
I posted before here in this thread, and I forgot to write here when I got my VLX Hayabusa stick. (been a bit busy cuddling it)
I am really satisfied with mine. Maybe I was lucky with mine but it looks great.
Just some coloring errors on the plastic on the cable door, and very tiny bumps on the metal parts(no coloring errors on the metal parts)
I can show with pictures tomorrow, and those things I will fix my self later 
It is for sure one badass stick!
Edit: I will enhance and fix the small things on it at a later time would also be cool to make the front with brushed metal like the real arcade one has.
Only the Vewlix Diamond has brushed metal all other Vewlix arcade cabs are painted black.
cdn-static.gamekult.com/gamekult-com/images/photos/00/01/15/85/ME0001158591_2.jpg
Is this not the one the Hayabusa is based on? looks like brushed metal on the front, or ontop where the stick and buttons are. Do not know what to call it in english.
That stand on the left is still black. The light reflection from above is hitting off of the gloss.
Man I suck at explaning my self lol, I know that the frame is black, but its not what I am talking about.
The VLX Hayabusa stick that I have does not have the same top panel as those.(its almost the same)
It is more grey instead of more silver and its a sticker instead of metal as you show there.(or is it a sticker as well in the arcades?)
But maybe it looks like that when a picture is taken of it instead of seeing it IRL.
Got it, the VLX is more matte than actual brushed metal.
I understand you, from what I’ve read on this thread, yes, the top panels on the capcom/red cabinet and vlx are not the same.
About your question, yeah, from the get go, I had in mind to swap the stick to a silent Sanwa. On dashing, I’ve never been of a fan of dashing via stick inputs (I prefer button presses for dashing – but not possible in SFV), but with the Kowal actuator and the 2lb spring it just feels good. All i have to do is slightly “tap” with my thumb or bottom portion of my pointer finger and voila, dash! Before, I’d would almost slap the damn stick to dash.
Hope that helps
haha yes et least some understand me! 
English is not my first speech so I have a hard time explaning things sometimes hehe
Anyhow its hard to put it away cause its so fun to use! You feel the power when you use it 
I just noticed something about the my kuro vlx
Both sides of the top panel are slightly raised – Not flush like the rest of the panel. Is this normal? Do y’all have the same going on with your sticks? Does it pertain only to a certain model(s) of vlx?
I’ve searched the first 15 pages of this thread and found nothing about this.
Mine isn’t that bad on the sides but it’s raised just a little between most of the bolts that hold down the top panel. It’s not obvious when looking at it from the top but you can feel just a little bit of flex in the panel between bolts. I’m hoping they add a gasket between the panel and base in future versions, it should help the panel be more flush and it would feel more solid/not as hollow.
well thanks to Jasen’s awesomeness there’s probably 20+ black VLX Kuro top panels floating around useless about now… maybe someone without any warps or bubbles will sell theirs to ya.
(that is if you don’t get a hit of that JCC good-goodyourself anyway)
i just got mine