I took out the Hayabusa/Falcon matte buttons & about to put them in the VLX Kuro (in addition to a black/grey/white marble swirl 38mm balltop) when it gets here on Mon/Tues. Translucent red silent Sanwa components (in addition to a matching 38mm balltop) went in the Hayabusa. Have pics a couple pages back. Might as well go for it all & get the Hayabusa. You’re already halfway there to owning both PS4 VLX’S, LOL!
I have a 360 and a ps3 one (that’s both dual modded with a cthulu and 360 fightpad respectively), so what I will do is “dual mod” them with an Imp V1 and make the UFB as the “primary” PCB. Doing it this way should mean I’d never have a need to “swap” over to the base PCB, but I should be able to piggy back the signals so I don’t have to hack the IDE cable for the buttons/stick
There should be a way to remove that shadoloo logo depending on the way its put onto the bag. I think a common option is to use a heat gun and then start peeling the logo off. Though it might still leave a ghost of the logo. The area of the logo will be darker than the rest of the bag so it would still be there just not as visible.
So, this is my first real fight stick… and I’m fairly new to fighting games (PC RTS player)… but even as a noob I feel this stick is exceptionally well put together. I’ve really enjoyed it so far and in less than a week I feel more confident on it than my ps4 controller. I have a question though, do you notice a little play or slack in the joystick while in center position? It’s not a lot, but you can rotate slightly and feel there’s a bit of free play. Are there modifications that can tighten that or make the movement a bit more firm? I’m not sure if this is the same for all joysticks because I’m not very experienced with many.