Cheers all, here’s an update on the VLX Aux Panels and VLX Replacement Panels:
All VLX Aux Panel Shipments are out, with the exception of the few bundled with the VLX EZ MOD board.
I added more VLX Aux Panels to the shop. They will start shipping within the 5-7 business day window as they are physically getting made. No kits going forward so plan on picking up some choice 19mm anodized buttons and a Cherry Rocker from Amazon or your favorite electronics shops. http://bit.ly/22qjFIB
Most VLX Panels are waiting on some art to dry. A few had to get reworked due to some scratches on the underside. I suspect the scratched ones will go up for sale for really cheap in the next week or so without artwork options. They should be repainted to protect from oxidizing on the exposed parts under the panel, hence no art options. The tops are still great though.
I will make the VLX panels available again once I get all pre-orders shipped out. So if you missed out during that period, don’t worry I have you covered! http://bit.ly/1pP8FXe
VLX EZ MOD Boards: I have the kit available for pre-order. No this isn’t a way to get them funded, this is just a way to get them in your hands on day 1 of arrival from the manufacturer I used to assemble them. @TRIEU will have them at ArcadeShock this weekend as well. He will offer kits with the Brook UFB so you can get everything you need from one source and have no soldering to do. I can’t say for sure the value added cost to pre-solder everything to the UFB, but knowing ArcadeShock and their community first mentality, it will be a great deal. http://bit.ly/1UaDcv3
Thank you to everyone who has supported these efforts, shared pictures, or just offered words of encouragement. I think @aszyd was the first person to push hard on the aux panels.
If you get a moment and can share a picture of your installs, i would appreciate it! I’d love to share them with the online followers at Facebook and Twitter!
I’m presuming it does, but does the panel-only Aux Panels come with the wiring? Edit I just saw on the website that it doesn’t. What are the exact plugs that we’ll need to use?
I tried searching for 19mm anodized buttons on amazon, but they’re like $10 a piece. His kit was like $40 i think with everything included. $30 including shipping for just the barebone panel, the kit was a hell of a deal IMO.
Any 19mm button will work. As for the Cherry switch, the model number is on the listing via my page.
I was going to do as many full kits as was needed during the pre order period, and did a total of 20! I got a heck of a deal on the switches and passed all that savings on to you guys. Unfortunately, I don’t think I can score that deal again because I had to buy 80 switches to get it. I suspect that demand isn’t going to be super high for these panels for very long and I don’t need 72 random buttons
Cosmetically, I am very pleased with how it looks. It doesn’t have any visible dimples or scratches anywhere on the stick. It also doesn’t have any air pockets on the foam padding. The only visible blemishes are the color inconsistencies of the plastic.
Hayabusa stick, I’m impressed with how the lever feels. It provides a tactile feedback that differs to the JLF. It feels brighter/snappier to me and also surprisingly smooth. I can understand why others rate the Hayabusa better than the JLF. The throw feels similar to the JLF though. I did notice a wobble when the stick returns to neutral.
Kuro buttons feels quite interesting, almost rigid like. I feel the button depresses down perpendicularly to the housing. I can see why these are used in Japanese arcades as the fightstick panel is parallel to the ground. The design of the button makes it suitable in an arcade setting IMO. I find it a little bit challenging to play on my lap as most of the time our thighs/legs are not parallel to the ground. Thankfully, I’ve ordered Sanwa replacements and will be adding silencers so that my wife will not freak out with the “clackyness”.
Overall, I’m very happy with the stick. This is my main and only controller that I will be using as my Hitbox is sold and gone!
Not sure if this is the right place to post this since it’s PS4 VLX discussion but being it’s more active than the PS3 VLX thread…
I recently bought a VLX Diamond from another forum user (not SRK) and it seems like opening the top panel and closing it isn’t smooth compared to my VLX Hayabusa. Which is odd cuz everyone is saying the build quality for PS3 VLX’s (OG and Diamond) are superior and higher quality than the PS4 VLX’s (Kuro and Hayabusa).
I’ll try my best to explain the problem. I have to put more force in trying to lift up the panel and when I close it it doesn’t go back in place on it’s own. I would literally have to push up with some force and then push it in for it to reach it’s natural position. Even then it doesn’t sit flush all the way and the lower left corner has some parts of the stainless steel sticking out and doesn’t sit flush compared to my VLX Hayabusa.
Here are some pictures of the problem:
Left side can’t close all the way.
Right side sits more flush than the left side.
View from the top of the problem.
So far from checking the screws, lug nuts, and other parts seems normal so I was wondering if this is a common occurrence with the VLX Diamond since it’s stainless steel and that over time the parts might have problems warping and deforming? Is there a remedy to this issue? Perhaps I can remove the lug nuts and reattach the bottom part of the panel? Everything else seems to be ok but I haven’t had the time to test everything out yet as I just got the package and need to get back to work. Hope someone may shine some light on this issue as paying over $400+ dollars for this and having problems with a like-new mint VLX diamond is making me a bit salty.
I guess you didn’t read my post on the previous page. My VLX Diamond had the same exact issue but not as bad as yours. I bought it brand new but don’t know if the previous owner of yours did anything to it. As mentioned earlier, I think it’s just hit or miss regardless which version of the VLX you get.
I have a whole bunch of photos of my VLX Hayabusa but I use Google Photos and trying to work out how to post those photos to a forum seems to be beyond me! lol
Does yours lift up and close smoothly? I find it that I have to give it a really good push when trying to close it as flush as possible. Then when I try to open the panel I would need to give it a pretty hard pull to pop it up to access the inside. Not sure what are my options right now with the seller. Part of me would just say keep the stick with it’s flaws (lesson learned) and part of me says to ask for a tiny bit refund as the item wasn’t described like the seller claims it to be “like-new/mint” condition as it does have a shit load of markings/swirls/light scratches from heavy use. Even the stainless steel part has some minor gashes. I think it becomes a problem when the original box is in better condition than the joystick itself. Sorry for ranting.
Already sold it since I get bored easily but in hindsight, I should’ve kept it since out of all 4 VLX designs it’s my fav due to the brushed aluminum finish. Mine was pretty smooth although pushing did make it slightly more flush but not by much & no issues with opening it.
Remove the control panel from the hinged frame. Loosen the screws that hold the top frame to the bottom of the case and get it positioned to where it functions as you expect, then tighten the screws back down. You most likely just have to push the frame towards the back of the case.
@TRIEU will have them at ArcadeShock this weekend as well. He will offer kits with the Brook UFB so you can get everything you need from one source and have no soldering to do. I can’t say for sure the value added cost to pre-solder everything to the UFB, but knowing ArcadeShock and their community first mentality, it will be a great deal. http://bit.ly/1UaDcv3
