I may see about getting one of those 1L8Bs… I just hope I can get the top panel off the Kuro without breaking a bolt again like I did on one of my original 360 VLXs.
The Vewlix C panel has a mirror finish. The HRAP.V has a silver high gloss finish. I noticed that the buttons have a matte finish which I like. These buttons have a press in 2 stages. If you press 40%, which is an extremely light press, it activates. The remaining 60% requires more pressure but does nothing. I like the light pressess, but the hard press below makes it feel uncomfortable. I’ll replace them with red Sanwa OBSF-30 buttons. The stick is very noisy. I’ll replace it with a Sanwa JLF. The panel is somewhat tilted in the middle, as if something is stuck underneath. If I feel the red dots which have the bolts below, I feel that those bolts are flush while the area surrounding the bolts is tilted. Maybe the screw positions didn’t quite match the holes and HORI had to force them to insert. My black VLX’s panel is perfectly flush.
All in all, I’m satisfied with the design. I’ll order red buttons and a red balltop soon.
I agree, the performance and electrically getting a regular LS-40 with a harness adapter is the same as getting a LS-40-01.
I done that in that in the past with a LS-40 I installed into a TE-S.
I was very fortunate… A friend of mine sold me a 360 TE AND a Dual modded original Hori PS3 VLX with Hori bag (dual modded with a 360 PCB) for $AUD 150 (around $USD 110)! I now have a 360 and PS3 VLX that I’ll put Brook UFB’s in over time.