That plastic back panel would look really good in black sandtex steel… Since Hori doesn’t make replacement parts for their sticks, I wonder how big the market must be.
I bought the stick from him. The rattling sound was a button plunger that was stuck behind the PCB casing, =) . I wonder if that got stuck back there during the manufacturing process and didn’t dislodge until he began started to use the stick.
I searched his thread, he did a lot of good work
http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w624/ampyourstick/IMG_20140523_165634726_zpshdvcghsf.jpg
http://i1333.photobucket.com/albums/w624/ampyourstick/IMG_20140523_170016556_zpslbztr62k.jpg
@“Jasen Hicks” would totally buy this if you offered it, but i’m not sure what the demand is.
When i switched out my panels i think the PS4 VLX looks really good with the white sides. Maybe white or clear white buttons…
Here is how the red looks w/ black sides.
Same i would buy one of those too and i would probably have to ask him if he would make me a custom metal panel too. I was thinking of 3d printing a new blank turbo panel but the texture would be a bit rough. I would definitely prefer it to be smooth like the panel from amp up customs
How about a cable door? My Diamond arrived today. Overall great shape, could use a light polish on the panel. However, no cable door!! I suppose I should be happy that is the only thing messed up / missing. Except I have no idea how I am going to replace it.
Good Luck, far as I know no one makes replacements.
What I did with a Hrap 4 was to epoxy a sheet of ABS plastic where the door once was.
On the VLX Kuro does the touchpad have a ribbon cable that I can split and put in the terminals easily on a Fightboard or will there be soldering required? If so then is there a diagram somewhere of that and the turbo panel to know which wire from the ribbon on each is what? Or is tracing the board with your eye to the button on the turbo panel easy enough?(except the touchpad I have no clue what all 6 wires are for)
You can 3d print a new door and then paint it white to give it a smoother finish. Without paint the door would be a bit rough since they build up your part layer by layer kind of like a croissant. It will probably only cost around 10 bucks or so to 3d print one.
You could also sand it down before hand.
Pin outs here: http://www.thesupergun.com/tech-manuals/hori-vlx-2015-edition-setting-mods-pcb-pinouts/
The touchpad is a .5mm ribbon, not easily split and it would be destructive.
i would only sand it down enough to put plastic primer on. I only have experience printing using ABS and when i was sanding it, its a bit porous so u get some holes here and there if u sand too deep. It might be different if you print it using a different plastic like nylon or resin but I have never tried those materials.
Thanks for that, shame the touchpad uses such a tiny ribbon, but the other ones for the PS button, Share, GND should be perfectly fine to splice and attach to the terminals? I’ll only need to use 1 ground on the whole turbo board?
Yes. The turbo board is common ground with the main board.
Definitely a good idea and worth looking into!
I can hope a very kind soul will one day make a tutorial on installing the Brook Universal Fighting Board on the VLX while retaining all the stock features (other than the PS4-PS3 selector, obviously) for complete modding dummies who need their hands held the entire time. ^^’ It would be really nice and very much appreciated. 
I have something for this Don’t you worry!
Jasen, Was trying to install my new Astro panel today and realized that I can not mount a LS-32 at least with the normal S plate since there are no center screw points. The normal 4 outside mounting points are just a HAIR too far apart. Like 2mm far apart.
I thought about drilling my own mounting holes into the included acrylic spacer but then I realized that it adds about 6mm so the joystick shaft will have incredibly short throw.
Any ideas would be appreciated!
Edit - Reading the order page for the panels I did see that it specifically says JLF standoffs, but being a completely Semitsu player this is a little tough.
How about a Universal S-Plate?
Alternatively,
The LS-38-01-SC is comparable to the LS-32 but with a flat plate. I have used one of these in my wireless PFS.
You can try a kowal S plate. It has a bunch of holes in it so you can try mounting it in many different configurations
Thanks for the quick replies! Looks like I will need to buy an adapter plate.
It doesn’t bother me to buy a $6 part, but other Seimitsu players should note that you will need something to adapt the joystick!
