I can tell you something is in the works at the moment, but its not like the Toodles Kitty board.
Its closer in design and purpose to the Crossbone PCB for the Xbox One TE2 where it allows you to have a simpler Dual-mod instillation.
The board comes with it’s own diodes installed and it adapts the PS3/PS4 switch to a dual mod selection switch. Obviously the PS4 side of the switch being the VLX board in PS4 mode, the PS3 side of the switch is what you are dual modding with.
Since the board developer hasn’t made their formal announcement I going to refrain from mentioning who.
And I don’t know when its going to me announce or available yet
Thanks for the info man, it makes me feel alot better now. I think I know who the maker of this will be and if it’s him then I’m glad to hear that his project is coming along nicely.
You don’t need the S-plate per say, but your joystick is not going to be mount at the right height without one
I used a S-plate for Mounting a LS-40-10, with the available screw wholes you only going to be mounting that plate with 2 screws.
Don’t worry this is normal. Just put your extra screws in the unused screw hole threads on the joystick mount.
Thanks for the clarification Darksakul! The shaft height was actually my main concern. My VLX is in the mail so I haven’t had a chance to peek inside yet.
Has there ever been a pinout for the daughter board for this stick yet? I know there is one for V3 but haven’t seen anyone do it yet for the V4. I could tone them all out with my meter but if someone else has done the work I would appreciate the time saver!
Not a great shot but no adhesive or tape needed. I’m using clear Sanwa’s so they’re still kinda noisey compared to the solid colored buttons. Great improvement overall. Switching out the Hayabusa for a JLF really helps too (I prefer the JLF personally, nothing wrong with the Hayabusa). The panel is big enough that some thudding is still prevalent but it’s definitely dampened enough that it no longer bothers me.
Looks good to me. I think I should be just fineeeeeee. I’ll be gutting this thing and throwing a PS360 in it since I love my old man games. Will definitely look into your USB solution too! Will update when it’s completed.
She came in the mail today!
Seimitsu parts went in without a hitch and the S plate of the LS-32 fit perfect using the center mounting holes like you said.
Initial impressions on the stock Hori parts are mixed. The buttons are OK to push but they have such cheap feeling sharp edges! The Hori joystick is super loose and feels like a heavily used arcade cab Sanwa. At least to me…
Going to wait until the weekend to get deep under the hood of this thing. Will update as I go along!
Hey guys! I got my VLX about 3 weeks ago, and instantly modded it.
Put a PS360+ inside, Neutrik connector, new buttons, the works right…
However!
I need help trying to rewire my select/home buttons from the PS360+ onto the row of buttons at the top right (the row with the PS button/PS3-4 switch/DP,LS,RS switches/Share/etc.)
I understand you need diodes for the Select/Home buttons? However, my VLX’s board isn’t connected to the PS360+, both PCBs work independently with separate sets of wires. So…would this be necessary for me?
Excuse my noobness to this, I’m pretty inexperienced but love modding/tinkering with things. Things like diodes are new to me, but I don’t mind one bit learning.
I’m curious as to why this is however. I’ve modded other sticks and had two different boards in (however both boards shared power source), but was able to use things like select and such, even if they weren’t on the main PCB.
So in theory, shouldn’t I be able to use the VLX’s PCB this way? Like, shouldn’t I be able to use a single ground point for both Select/Home and just solder wires to Select/Home, and screw them into the PS360+?
Sorry if this question is absurd haha, I’m just new and am in need of advice!
connect a ground from the ps360+ to the daughter pcb, (which the home and select buttons are located on). then connect the home and select signal accordingly to the ps360+. if you don’t know the exact spots you can use a multimeter or follow the traces to the pinout.
you can also use these and cut off the female end to keep your original harness intact.
Time to take a vote. I’m finished with the design phase of the panels and want to get input on the alternate layouts everyone is clamoring for. My goal is to keep it to 1 or 2. Because of the low numbers I expect the price to be on point with one of my Sega repro panels. Let me know what you are thinking in terms of layout:
Curved Sega (Just like the Noir / Type N) in 6 or 8 buttons
