I think @Phreakazoid said it best
There is also this tidbit
I also notice the lag thread does not take in factor that a stick’s PCB for longevity and dependability should be more of a factor than lag when buying a stick.
Whats good about a low latency stick that can die prematurely? If it was me I don’t want my stick to die in between matches or even mid match.
I hope to receive the Sanwa JLF this week. It might be the Hayabusa lever in combination with the buttons that causes the feeling of delay, because the Hayabusa is stiffer. But it feels like button sequences are different as well. If I go online against someone in my own country, I can’t anti-air with Ryu’s standing LK or crouching HP. It is nearly always too late. When I use my MC Cthulhu TE, I have much more time to execute those anti-airs. When I use the VLX Kuro in crouching position and I press HP against a jump-in, I always get hit or trade. The AA work flawlessly on the TE. I played for hours yesterday using the TE. Most matches felt like XBL. I will report my experience with the JLF. I hope it’s the lever. I do like the VLX’s housing a lot and would like to keep it if the JLF solves the problem.
I had the red HRAP.EX Premium VLX and used it without any issues. It was certainly the best stick I ever bought, but I sold it because I purchased the Vewlix F.
The lever isn’t capable of causing lag. It feeling different can throw off your execution, but that’s different from lag.
You said it with more tact that I would have
I meant it’s either the PCB registering slower or the lever being too different (stiff) that makes me drop moves. But button sequences fail as well. I played on the TE for 2 hours straight last evening and had no problems with execution. I’m aware that the lever has no processing in it. It’s just a bunch of contacts that closes signal loops.
That would be a product off the controller’s lag then, unfortunately. You can adapt, but going back and forth between controllers with a pretty different amount of lag will cause you more of a problem than the lag itself.
You are probably not used to the Kuro buttons. Cause button sequences like chains are not 1 frame links. Swap the buttons out for the buttons you prefer and see if you notice a difference. If you do then its not the controller lagging, but your adjustment to using different buttons.
Also, unless you are playing guilty gear xrd, those lag test results dont mean much cause they are testing how that game specifically handles inputs from your stick.
I swapped the buttons for Sanwa OBSF (which are the only buttons I use) on the day I received the VLX. I used the Kuro buttons only once for 10 minutes.
Also if I recall from those tests, the “control” group being the 0 ms latency item is just the PCB with the least amount ms latency compared to all the other sticks. 0 ms latency on PS4 in actuality could mean a different tangible number than 0 ms latency for PS3 or 360 systems. You can’t compare the results and grades between sticks specified for each particular system.
And lets say that the PS360+ really is 0 ms latency for PS4, that means the Kuro VLX and my Silent V have “almost” 1 frame of lag. Just 1 stable frame of lag depending on when I hit the button near the polling stations. That’s something a human could adjust to. Even then, when I play KOF98 on my computer, I hit my 1 frame links pretty consistently between my Kuro VLX, Silent V, when I had my TE2 and HRAP V4, Madcatz KE, and my Cthulu MC. Shitty flat screens are more of an issue than the variance between sticks themselves as I feel it.
So dunno, whatever. This testing is whatever. I think the whole JLF thing is placebo.
Lets not reference that terrible thread here any more. We wasted a half a page on that nonsense.
It has no place in this thread where we deal with the actual, factual specs of the PS4 VLX and how other people customize, modify or repair their own VLX sticks.
I think I may have found the root of your problems…
You gave them a proper chance, then? Excellent.
The TE-stick doesn’t lag online, so online isn’t the bottleneck. Also, I used the VLX both online and offline in training mode (for many hours). I had the red HRAP.EX Premium VLX before and didn’t experience any timing issues on that stick.
I used the Kuro buttons for 10 minutes, but my issues are with the VLX stick itself (using Sanwa buttons) that I tested for 10 hours.
I suspect it’s the stiffness of the Hayabusa that makes me drop moves, not lag.
If you think the Hayabusa is stiff, oh god I feel bad for you. I sure your only other Authentic joystick is the Sanwa JLF which is often criticized for being too loose.
And the Hayabusa isn’t that stiff, if anything it’s pivot has less friction than the JLF’s pivot. I suspecting you are playing with a broken-in (if not worn out) JLF this whole time.
Don’t even bother playing with the Sanwa JLW or Seimitsu LS-40 as they are “stiffer” than the JLF. Happs, IL and Korean sticks would be worst for you.
In the old SF2 days, our local arcades had extremely loose sticks, way more loose than JLF’s. I grew up using those. Since SFIV came out, I started using JLF’s. I had two TE’s (I sold one), a Vewlix F cab, two red VLX’s (PS3 and XBOX 360, I sold the PS3 version) and now another VLX Kuro. I always used loose sticks indeed, especially JLF’s. When I was in South-Korea, I needed quite some time to adapt to the Crown sticks. I ended up getting used to them because of the round gate, but it took time. My JLF isn’t broken. My red VLX, XBOX 360 TE and Vewlix F cab have the same looseness. The past 5 years, I played on my Vewlix exclusively. I started using the PS3 TE again this week and had no problem using it. The PS3 TE’s JLF feels exactly the same as my Vewlix cabinet’s JLF.
That because everyone is abusive to old arcade machines, and there more people bashing that machine everyday than anyone of us playing on our personal gear.
I never said your JLF is broke I said it was broken in and/or worn. Replacing the spring would tighten it back up. I tell you now a new Happ or IL joystick (or putting in a 9 lbs spring) would give you a workout.
The Hayabusa new is less restrictive than a brand new JLF. Your whole sense of what is loose is off.
I agree with the other posts, I think the whole issue is in your head.
I received the JLF. The combos all work now. Even though the Hayabusa and JLF gates look the same size, it feels like the JLF travels shorter distances because the spring is less stiff. The JLF lever is also more quiet. I don’t have the hollow sound anymore.
I still like the JLF the most, so I’m keeping that in the VLX.
And here I am sitting with a 4lb spring in my hayabusa 'cuz it was too loose and I kept overshooting things.
so i just got mine in the mail and i love it changed it to a more classy style with six white buttons and start, ball top to match. i kept the stick stick in it i don’t mind it but it feels a bit loose to me lol am not sure i need more time with it am sure
I just ordered so many different buttons and 2 sticks it’s gonna be christmas when I get them. I got a E.Honda ball top also.
4lb spring!? Wow. I use 2lb for all my VLXs and HRAPs. I tried a 3lb before and it only messed up my input timing. 4lb has to be a workout.