You are running the same keyboard stand setup I am running.
I started using the VLX for about 8 hours, playing many SSF4AE matches and training mode. The input of the buttons and stick sound very loud and hollow in the housing. The Hayabusa-stick is too stiff and uncomfortable for me. It has a cheap feeling to it. It feels more like one of those low budget sticks. I switched to my TE stick which felt instantly satisfying. Much smoother, faster and lighter JLF-stick. The input of the buttons and stick felt solid and premium in the TE-housing. It’s ironic that the (1st gen) TE feels so much better and premium than this Hayabusa VLX. On the Hayabusa, I can barely FADC on charge characters. When I use the JLF, I can do FADC’s.
I’m going to order a JLF for the VLX. Meanwhile, I’ll keep using the TE.
The VLX is large and made mostly of metal and the inside is pretty empty so of course it will have a hollow sound, the Taito Vewlix cabinets feel the exact same, the TE1 has smaller space inside and lots of plastic so it’s a bit more sound proof.
As for the JLF vs Hayabusa that’s just preference, I still like and use the JLF when I have to but I’d never use it over a Hayabusa if I had to choose between them.
I had the original VLX (the red one), but it didn’t sound as hollow because it used a JLF. I also have a Vewlix F cabinet and it certainly doesn’t feel the same as a Hayabusa VLX and doesn’t sound hollow at all. The cab’s control panel is much, much bigger than a VLX stick. The hollowness is caused by the Hayabusa, not the housing. The VLX’s housing is excellent. I can’t wait to replace the Hayabusa for a JLF in the VLX. I experience a lot of timing issues using the Hayabusa. The 1 frame link combos are very hard to do for me on the Hayabusa (in training mode). When I switch to the TE’s JLF, I can do them consistently one after another.
Like you said, it’s a matter of preference. It’s like Sanwa or Seimitsu. To each his own.
In the Hayabusa thread they mentioned the Hayabusa is made with harder and (better quality plastics)? so that’s most likely why it has more of a thud sound if you play aggressively and hit the gate, the JLF’s actuator seems like softer material so it’s a lot quieter. I find the Hayabusas microswitches to be louder too(will probably swap them out soon to make it a silent stick.)
Earlier this week, I thought HDMI lag and the input lag of the PS3 were causing the execution problems. I use Game Mode and turned off all filters. Then, I used the TE and noticed that the timing on the TE is nearly identical to my XBOX 360 on my Vewlix F (using VGA). I hope the PCB of this newer VLX isn’t causing the input delay.
I ordered a JLF 15 minutes ago.
You’re using a VGA to HDMI converter for your PS3 to VGA Vewlix monitor? pretty sure that will always cause input lag.
I use my PS3 on my HDTV using an HDMI cable. I use my XBOX 360 in my Vewlix using a VGA cable.
What’s the input lag on your HDTV?
I don’t know how many ms, but when I turn off all possible filters and enable Game Mode, it feels the same as XBOX 360 on Vewlix VGA if I use the TE stick. Using the VLX, I have to pause a bit before the next button press because of the extra input delay. Even when I simply do a crouch block, the Sanwa button presses on the VLX require a pause between each button press or else they don’t get registered. On my TE, I can almost piano the buttons and they still get registered. I suspect the VLX PCB having input delay. My TE has a MC Cthulhu PCB.
Not too sure then, I don’t use an Xbox 360 but I use my VLX on my PS3 and PS4 and I have a Cthulhu in my TE also and they seem the same on the PS3, I can also feel 11-12ms of lag on my CRT vs my EVO monitor.
If you’re playing SFIV I think the PS3 and Xbox 360 versions were said to run at different speeds if that has anything to do with your lag problems.
This might be too late but the screws for the metal plate are flush with the top of the plate and easily snap off if you’re not careful. My VLX red was damaged in a move and to make up for the busted off screws I had to fill in the gap between the metal plate and the hinged frame with JB Weld and sand it flush. Now with the carbon fiber wrap (not exciting but cheap) at least the top is flush from edge to edge.
I honestly notice no difference between my VLX and any of my other sticks in terms of input latency, fwiw. I may not be sensitive to it though.
Pics?
I don’t know, when I played on a Vewlix after buying my stick I was surprised because the cabinet felt really solid and stable. Of course, being a lap player, I know it’s not the same, but damn, how I wish I could play on the cabinet everyday.
input lag tests:
http://www.teyah.net/sticklag/results.html
According to the test, the VLX Kuro has twice more input lag in PS3 mode (21.25 ms) than my Cthulhu (10.77 ms). The PS360 has 0.00 ms input lag. I have it in my Vewlix F cab. In PS4 mode, the Kuro still has 14.80 ms input lag.
update:
I did some more training mode and online play. Even when I play against players on the other side of the Atlantic ocean, I don’t experience input delay or network lag on the MC Cthulhu TE. When I switch to the VLX, I get noticeable input delay, including delay in matches against opponents in my country.
I’ll test the JLF in the VLX when it arrives. If it still lags, I’ll keep using my TE for the PS3.
Well that is annoying - I’m feeling a bit hard done by this as the vlx kuro is meant to be a, if not THE, premium stick, and it has the worst input latency of the bunch. Not that I’m good enough to detect this but it’s the principle as I believe the last vlx was top of its class in the latency department.
I suppose there’s no hope holding out for any updates or response from Hori or Arcade Shock on the matter (I’m not sure what they could do anyway) so I guess soldering in a different board is the only way to fix this.
Too bad the PS4 chip is yet to be cracked - that 0ms Akishop Customs PS360+ would be excellent otherwise… Does anyone know if the PS4 security chip is any closer to being cracked?
/edit: actually I guess it must be a licence or driver level thing rather than a ‘security chip’ as legacy controllers have been made to work (using the lab zero driver).
/edit part 2!: reading around a bit more I see it’s the encrypted Bluetooth security checkin that’s the issue. Hopefully Akishop Customs or Toodles will be able to find an alternative to the 8 min disconnect workaround that’s currently required. That or Hori sends us all a new PCB 
From those same tests the Red VLX and probably the Diamond was high input delay also, so if you think those are fine then the Kuro will feel the same. I can feel no difference and I feel a difference with 10-11ms from monitors. So I don’t think those tests are accurate.
And I think you are imaging things. If you say you can feel your VLX lag and I say you are a liar.
There no humanly way to notice 10ms lag, the human brain isn’t wired for it. Top of that I find serious fault in teyah’s method of getting is microseccond results. He testing methodology does not allow for such precise results.
Wow. Hate to see the stupidity from “that thread” spewing forth to other areas on TT. Take my arcade stick. I can’t win with this thing.