They’re welded on and can snap off in one of two ways. It can either snap off the length of the bolt, or snap the entire thing out of place, so you CAN replace it easily with another bolt. Ideally, if you break one, you can just remove the art panel and brute force the remainder out of the hole, because then you can just replace them all with sturdier bolts. Of course, this was for the OG red. Things might have changed since then. Again, this isn’t even a factor unless you’re a curious kitten and start messing with the top panel nuts. It’s not going anywhere just from standard use.
Oddly enough, I’ve never had a problem with any of the compartment doors, but I see other people complaining about them a lot. I’ve oft wondered if I’m doing something wrong… I think the only time I’ve legitimately, passionately hated a cable compartment door was the original MadCatz TE.
I never had a compartment door break on me when I had a TE1 and HRAP V4; but with the Silent V. Hayabusa that I just got, it doesn’t feel sturdy. I doubt I’d break it, but it’d be more assuring if the locking mechanism was sturdier and the door itself and hinges were stronger and thicker.
I have issues with the Hrap V4 door and even worst issues with every Qanba stick I seen with a door.
I also have heard numerous complains about the Mad Catz TE door.
My Hrap V4 door did not break, it just keep falling off its posts.
I ended up removing the door (and selling it off) and epoxied a sheet of ABS plastic into place.
Yeah, I’ve seen many broken Qanba doors. With my TE1 and V4, with how I folded the cable into the compartment it was always a tight squeeze that put tension on the door. The Silent V. Hayabusa gives me more than ample room as opposed to my previous sticks, but yeah the build quality on all compartment doors I had were cheap and/or had inadequate space for my purposes. If my door does break off, I may follow your example
I never had problems with my TE1 cable door other than it warping out of shape a bit because I stuff an extra long cable in it and close it shut. I also like my Fightstick Pro cable door, seems just as good as the TE1.
From the few videos I’ve seen I see the VLX door easily just pop off because of the small pegs or whatever that keeps the door on, at least it’s better than something breaking.
Well that’s fine then, I’d guess the only time I’d ever mess with the bolts was to remove the panel to get the black part powder coated if the painted metal parts ever got worn or scratched off like a few OG VLX’s had.
Do you have to remove the artwork from the metal plate to remove and weld a new bolt on to the plate? If so I hope I never do break a bolt because I have a feeling removing the art and replacing it would be a bitch and probably never look the same…
That’s honestly something you’ll probably never have to worry about unless you have a constant stream of moisture pouring out from your hands. I’ve played with three OG reds and never had a problem with the paint coming off; it’s just known to be a possibility. But yeah, if you’d ever have to actually replace the bolts, the top art panel would have to come off. It’s just glued on, so it will go right back into place. I did it on one of my 360 OGs and didn’t have any problem. Underneath the art panel, you can see where they welted standard carriage bolts into place and there’s a nice nut shaped hole where they just fit right in; you cannot access this without taking the art panel off.
Ppl can add signature confirmation to their package thru the shipping link sent to them. My tracking # is thru UPS and there’s an option for signature confirmation under the shipping status.
I placed my order on April 26th with AS. Package shipped out yesterday with a expected delivery date on Friday, really surprised to be getting my VLX so soon.
Mine has an estimated delivery date of monday. From what i’m hearing, the kuro buttons don’t seem so great. I’ll try them out for a bit and see if they really need replacing.
Hey Paul- Im new to the joystick game and should be receiving this beauty very soon. From what I’ve been gathering, you can upgrade the buttons and balltop, etc. Do you recommend anything in particular if I was interested in upgrading or replacing the stock kuro buttons and/or balltop?
The balltop is just cosmetic, the lever can be changed to a Sanwa JLF without any modification. The Kuro buttons can be replaced with a variety of buttons such as Sanwa and Seimitsu without any modification because of the quick disconnects.
You can also just put Sanwa SW-68 microswitch into the Hori buttons, which makes them a little better. I’ll give them one thing though, it feels like it’s impossible to break the tabs on the sides.
iirc my main gripe with the Kuro buttons was that sometimes they felt like they had added resistance to them when being pressed.
Not funny. Also the Riots have died down. Most of the instigators have been arrested.
And the City has a 10pm curfew for at least the remainder of the week.
Signature confirmation with Fed Ex? LOL. I can be in the house, right near the door, and the Delivery guy does not even makes an attempt to make a delivery. They just leave a notice and claim I was not home.
Then comes the annoying part of rescheduling or driving to a location somewhere out in the middle of nowhere to pick up the item your self.
As the others have said, Sanwa and Seimitsu are the go to brands, they each have their own unique feel to them, but I’ve only had experience with the sanwa parts, so that is what I would naturally recommend. Reading in this thread, people have said the kuro buttons have needed some breaking in, so I will try and give them a chance before opting to switch.
I really want to purchase the bag from splitframe but the shipping time frame makes it look like it won’t come in time for evo… but it looks like they will sell some there so I am conflicted. Might just transport the stick in the box it comes in.
My Fedex shipment came with 'direct signature confirmation" I guess normal signature confirmation from Fedex is anyone close to the house or walking by can sign for it? lol
If you’re new to joysticks then you won’t know a difference as you’ll be pretty crappy with the joystick the first few weeks/months anyway like all new people that start on a stick as there’s a learning curve and if you didn’t already use other brand sticks or buttons then you don’t have much to compare to in terms of what’s best as they are all personal preference.
Most peoples main problems with the Kuro buttons are that they squeak before they are broken in so just use them and don’t worry about upgrading anything unless you reallly don’t like the way they feel(or want to change colors for appearance reasons)
[quote=If you’re new to joysticks then you won’t know a difference as you’ll be pretty crappy with the joystick the first few weeks/months anyway like all new people that start on a stick as there’s a learning curve and if you didn’t already use other brand sticks or buttons then you don’t have much to compare to in terms of what’s best as they are all personal preference.
Most peoples main problems with the Kuro buttons are that they squeak before they are broken in so just use them and don’t worry about upgrading anything unless you reallly don’t like the way they feel(or want to change colors for appearance reasons)[/quote]
yea for sure i had an idea already about the possible gripes with new buttons as I’ve played on arcade joysticks many years ago and i would always enjoy broken in buttons rather than new ones…you could always tell when an arcade was new as the buttons are a bit stiffer. So yes I agree I will keep it stock and and if I feel the need to swap I can definitely look into it with all of your suggestions because just like you said I really dont have anything to compare it to, I actually “may” like it stock haha…thanks for the feedback!
I’ve had experience with the Sanwa JLF, Seimitsu LS-32 (dislike it), Seimitsu LS-58 (very nice!) and Hori Hayabusa sticks, and the Sanwa OBSF-30, Sanwa OBSC-30, Seimitsu PS-14, GamerFinger HBFS-30-G2 (crystal, black and white; with Cherry MX red, blue, brown and black and Razer orange and green switches) and Hori Kuro buttons.
The Hori Hayabusa and the Hori Kuro are the best stick-button combo for me. Nowadays it’s certainly better for me if an Arcade model comes with these parts than if it is “full-Sanwa”.
Nowadays it’s certainly better for me if an Arcade model comes with these parts than if it is “full-Sanwa”.