The car sound system thread a.k.a I GOT KING KONG IN THE TRUNK!

General Discussion
121

I’ve thought long and hard about this, I keep thinking about a new whip, even though its going to be a while.

I still don’t think I can do stock. I’d love to be able to, but I’ve never been impressed with the stock locations/drivers. there are some good ones out there, but the cars I’m looking at don’t fall into that category (Infinitis), and the ones that do - fuck up elsewhere (Last I heard Acura was #1 for stock sound, but their displays are AWFUL). On top of it all, with collection like ours, even with IPod integration, if the searching isn’t done right, the experience ends up being so bad I’ll end up with an aftermarket head-unit. so I’m still on the fence - I’m not trying to blow folks away, but I’ve got standards :rofl: - and for how much cars fucking cost, that shit wil lbe done right.

Either way more than likely once my current is finally paid, I plan on throwing a few months worth of car payments into restoring/tuning everything, and then dropping the following few months into the sound/presentation. I’m just going to be one-whip for a while as I save up for bigger and better things. But even if I could scoop a G37 right now or the FX45, I’d still have to take out that BOSE shit…ugh…the stock Nissan dirvers sound better than that BOSE shit…it STANK I tell you IT STANK!

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122

What do you want from RF? I still bang my HX2, though I’ve never cranked it too max (giving it 400W RMS verses the 500W it was designed for and the 600W it can handle as RF usually under powers their shit) - great SQ, though after the “H” series - when it switched to “P” - they went to hell. they still can hit from a sub level, but the sound quality is just a lil better than the average pioneer/kenwoods. I’d actually take a Kicker or Alpine over the current series, and I’m not a fan of Kicker or alpine. RF drivers are actually pretty good, but their componenets last I played with them still had the ‘tinny’ sound that becamse popular in 04/05.

Their accessories are solid. Nothing game breaking and can be found at a decent price. Their head-units are forgetable. though they did have a Wifi enabled hdd based setup that was kinda cool.

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123

the TL isn’t that bad, but what I don’t like is no touch screen (for now). In the 2010 model they are bringing back 6-speed manual! (SWEEEEEEEET). I hope by then they either have a touch screen or a Type S TL (with a 60/40 split)

124

For being passive, I’m digging the PG RSDs. Probably feeding each side 100 watts RMS or so. My head unit’s EQ is nearly flat, just a small cut in the midrange and I’m using the acoustic EQ setting on my Zune. It beefs up the bass a bit, but my amps are doing fine with the gains on their nominal setting. I really want to go active, but my HU isn’t capable of that. I’ve been looking at Eclipse’s CD3200 even though it can’t do active either, but the display is kinda meh. I’d get the Alpine 9886, but without Imprint all it has bass and treble control. Pretty weak. The 9887 is hella nice and can do active, but it’s well over $300. I think I’m gonna keep looking for something like a 7894, 9811, or the sexiest HU ever IMO, the 9835. Older Alpine decks just look so sleek and had some features for tweaking sound.

My order didn’t get completed in time, but you can try to get in on these dirt cheap subs+enclosure at $49.99. Says discontinued, but they’re just out of stock apparently. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_099SW4200/Eclipse-SW4200BXD.html?tp=112&wm=cl

125

I can def agree. Right now I’m rocking a Pioneer Premier P590IB. Thats probably my favorite deck I ever had so far. Even my subs are Premiers.

126

Been looking at Sundown Audio’s stuff and it seems pretty tight. I’ve read a ton of good things about their products and awesome customer service. It’s a little pricey for me, though. Their SAX 100.4 has built-in crossovers so you can do a 2-way active setup.

http://www.sundownaudio.com/products.html

I’ve read good things about Eclipse’s amps, too:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7473_Eclipse+XA5000.html#
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_m155_i26_eclipse-2-channel-amps.html

I’m going to Phoenix for the weekend so I’ve been looking all over their Craigslist listings for a used Alpine deck. 9811 seems like the cheapest bet for me going active with the HU. Kinda don’t want to mess with an external crossover, unless someone can recommend a good for about $100.

127

Time for a bump.

I decided to try going active, so I picked up 2 of Clarion’s DXZ785USB. Hella nice feature set for $129 shipped on Amazon recently, although the price has now gone up. I can set slopes, crossover points, time alignment, and some other stuff. All 3 pre-outs are 6v, which is a lot higher than I’m used to. I’ve read it doesn’t really affect SQ all that much, but it feels nice to have paid so little and get high quality pre-outs. I’ve read it uses its internal 24-bit DAC for the USB, iPod, etc. which is pretty neat if it’s true. Perhaps the only downfall of this HU is that it’s not very pretty. I think Alpine makes the sexiest HUs, but I just couldn’t plop down the 3 Benjamins for a 9887. I’d gain 2 bands on the PEQ, but lose the built-in USB and some other stuff.

I got a pair of the Mach 5 MLI 6.5" woofers. These things are huge! Many good reviews across the net, priced decently at $79 shipped/pair. I just got them and it’s late, too lazy to install right now. Pretty sure they’re gonna sound way better than the PG RSDs. I’ve had nothing but polypropylene cone woofers, so I figured it was time to try a paper cone and see if I like them. I’d like to have a warmer midrange and some better midbass… these seem up to the task. They’re a 4-ohm speaker and handle 100w RMS. I may have to bridge my PDX. On-axis I can cross them a bit higher versus off-axis, but that’s gonna require custom kick panels, so I dunno… seems like it’d be a lot easier to get good midbass in a sealed kick enclosure, though.

Also ordered a pair of LPG tweeters a while back. I don’t think I can cross them down too low (3000 Hz should be fine since the MLI should be able to go that high just fine), but oh well. Supposed to have a icy sound, but they’re not on the bright/harsh side. I can power these off the HU, which will help out a lot.

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=45_229_250&products_id=544

A very nice friend bought an Alpine PDX 4.100 for me a while back. It was $269 at BB, so I think that’s a pretty dang good deal for this amp in new condition. Birth sheet rates each channel at 131w RMS, so the PDX line is underrated a good bit. Probably doesn’t matter with my stock electrical and the inevitable voltage drop. :sad: Ah well, I’d be happy with even the rated 100w RMS. :rofl:

For my sub/subs, I was thinking of doing a 12" RE SE. After seeing this puppy and reading tons of praise over on diymobileaudio.com, I’m just not so sure anymore: http://stereointegrity.com/ It’s a bit pricey, though. I may just end up trying the SE so I have that extra oomph when I desire it.

128

Still trying to find the cash to upgrade my deck for my current/future car…need to find out what those are though. New models are hitting stores now

129

bout to upgrade dem amps for the summer… may upgrade the sub as well… depending.

130

just wanna say crazy glue is gdlk when it comes to fixing a ripped sub :rofl:

131

Yup, my boy from home blew his old JL W-3 in college. Blew the center cap right off that muthfucka! Got some super glue and fixed sub! :smokin:

132

If you’re looking for just a normal HU, the new Kenwood KDC-X993 looks very nice for the price.

http://www.woofersetc.com/p7741/KDCX993-Kenwood-MP3-WMA-USB-CD-Receiver.htm

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=378486&highlight=testing+sundown

133

Naw, my brothas got touch screens, I need a touch screen. Don’t know if I want to 2010 Camry or the 2010 Honda Element (carrying DJ equipment)

134

Straight up ballin’. I stick with my somewhat more plain HUs, because I need all the sound processing I can afford lol.

135

Because [media=youtube]_Wd7ndVFP0s"[/media] sounds bad ass rollin down the street of your block:rock:

136

I have an Alpine MRP-M850 amp. I was running 2 10" Alpine Type-E’s that I got cheap as shit when I worked at Best Buy, but the sound quality if pretty mediocre so I’m trying to sell them on Craig’s List.

I went to a local car audio shop and they made a few recommendations that might match my amp:

2 10" JL w0’s
2 10" JL w3’s
2 10" Boston Acoustic G210’s

I listen to all kinds of music. Rock, pop, rap, even some classical. Any comments on the subs, or other recommendations? I don’t want to spend a rediculous amount, but I know it’s going to cost a little bit to get subs that actually match the power output of my amp.

137

Don’t buy from your local shop if you can find the product through an authorized dealer online. Woofersetc. and Sonicelectronix are usually pretty good. JL is overpriced either way, though. Your amp puts out 800w RMS at 2 ohms, but that’s probably rated on 14.4v.

If you want some bump, I’d try out an RE SE 12". They go for about $150+ on eBay and if you get the 4 ohm DVC sub, you can wire it down to 2 ohms and get the most out of your amp. If you can make or attain a proper enclosure, one of these would probably satisfy you. You don’t NEED to match the output of your amp, either. Stereo Integrity’s Mag V4 is a great example of this. It can get loud off of as little as 300w.

138

Step 1 - whats the power specifications of your amps?
Step 2 - if you got a big gauge wire - you can always get a bigger amp, just try and track down and older one, its not like a computer where the shit gets obsolete, hell some of the pros use OLD shit…like 10-15 year old shit, especially for SQ.
Step 3 - Do you have any brand preference? Your right in sticking with the tens
Step 4 - what kind of car is it?
Step 5 - are you trying to reuse your existing box? If so you need to make sure the subs your looking at wil work well in that type of enclosure/room

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139

Your looking at a Camry/Element? Huh?!? That doesn’t sound B-like at ALL.

If your thinking of invsting money in your DJ setup on a ‘vehicle’ level, you can always scoop a used car, better value anyways since it won’t depreciate as fast and the mileage on it won’t be overbearing.

Anything wrong with your current head-unit? I’m 100% satisfied with mine, a double din would look cool, but from a functiona lstand point won’t change shit as I don’t have a video source and don’t p[lan on putting a video source in the car. I just need to finish up all my car projects, I havel ike 15 different projects for different things layiong around my apartment. Bout to start a new one over the next week, forutnatly it won’t require much in the way of ‘physical work’.

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140

Whats a “B-like” car??? :confused:

I need more room, need a 4 door car (going to have kids at some point) and I want something that no one else has/decked out. The element is a 4 door ride which has PLENTY of space for speakers and my DJ stuff; also has a hard floor for home depot projects.

Newer cars are coming with double din video sources, which I will replace, hence the reason for wanting a new one now and having it over time. The current one I have is almost 5 years old, isn’t really iPod friendly and really can’t sell it for anything. Rather have a HU that can do everything (GPS, BT, iPod/Video, and touch screen). Most of the plans are on hold though, we are getting our savings together (6 months worth of house savings; 20K) so if something went wrong we have some time to find jobs and will be less stressed.