Well now that you’ve gotten them stripped, just cut back the exposed wire and resolder
Yeah I get that, but I’m not trying to meet EE standards lol and I’m not charging people to do this for them, and I’ve been soldering like this for 20 years or so and never had an issue, so I’ll take the risks 
I don’t plan on really ever opening the TE2 back open again either so nothing will fall in there. I’m a gambling man I guess what can I say!
By the sound of it, you wrap your USB cord around the stick
Don’t do that either lol
If you have to secure your USB cord, use hook & loop (velcro) cable ties.Monoprice has a 50 pack for $6.52
What I do is loosely loop or coil your cables and secure with a velcro cable tie.
You can by them almost anywhere now
If you install a DPDT switch with the TE2/Crossbone, can you power on the PS4 with the Home button if it’s in PS4 mode?
My 360/PS3 joystick I made had a DPDT switch on it and I could turn the PS3 on just fine (using Cthulu), so I wasn’t sure if that behavior happens on PS4 with a DPDT switch.
Lol that would take like 100 wraps to do that.
No, just one sharp pull too many
Especially with the el-cheapo quality cables mad catz and Hori uses for their controllers.
It’s why I prefer to install Neutrik passthoughs on all of my sticks and use better made aftermarket cables
Still a bad habit
You guys know the answer to this by any chance?
No
And another related question - if the PS4 is set to be the primary system, can you then turn on the PS4 with the Home button?
Try it and find out
This past week when I was playing SF5 Beta a few times on PS4, mid match (happened like 4 times or so total) it said the controller got disconnected and it went into “Xbox One” mode (I can tell because the LED’s light up on X1, and not on PS4 mode). So I had to reconnect holding the switch down, and press home (mid match) to fix it real quick.
Then right now I was playing Killer Instinct and 3 times I saw the controller disconnect for a split second then pop back on.
I’m going to look at the board tomorrow because my tools are in the garage and I’m about to sleep, but is there any specific area I should look for this issue? I’m guessing it might just be a cold solder joint somewhere on the USB points or something like that, but I wasn’t sure if it might be something else that is obvious to you guys who know more than I do about this.
while you’re at it, cut back some of that exposed wire
So I just checked this out in preparation of the SF5 beta tonight, but there was nothing obvious at all, everything looked to be fine joint wise.
Anyone have any suggestions on how I can track this down?
I have another question about my TE2 crossbone and I’m not sure where to start with it.
I find that when I’m playing that the ps360+ will disconnect for a second but automatically reconnect itself to the console after.
Is this a problem with the Crossbone not sitting snug on the XB1 board or is this another problem? I’ve checked the solder points and everything is snug.
Probably signal integrity, some people have issues with crossbone setups and the PS360+ wherein it won’t even register on the 360 unless you shorten the cable, it’s possible that this is also something that can happen.
Mind posting pics of the install?
I know it may look like the wires aren’t soldered on but they are snug and the connection is fine. (At least to me I’m not an electrician or an engineer so let me know if anything is wrong.)
EDIT: If you need more pictures as well let me know. One more question, is it possible to bypass the XB1 pcb all together and retain the LED board functionality with the ps360+ and the crossbone?
Hey guys,
Can someone tell me if its right/normal to have continuity on the 20 pin header on 17,18,19,20 on the Crossbone. I’m having troubles getting my PS360+ to be recognised.
Thanks in advance.