So actually, it does turn on my X1 when I plug it in. Not sure why it didn’t that one time.
I tried plugging it into my PC to see if it would recognize the Home button, but nope.
The “test” under the Fightstick test mode in devices didn’t register home (or the L2/R2 buttons I think) which I hear is normal.
But I launched USF4 as well and same thing - the lock button when going from unlock -> lock acts as if the home button is pressed, and still no luck with the home button.
Is there a chance the Crossbone could be defective or something? I’ve examined the shit out of it and it appears to be just fine though, as does the couple solder points I’ve done. I’ve tinned the points on the Crossbone I was planning on using for the PS4 USB stuff, but that is about it.
Yeah @Phreakazoid you have any suggestions? I checked it about 10x last night and everything seems to be hooked up just fine so I’m pretty much stumped at this point. I don’t want to solder the PS4 pad to the Crossbone if the X1 controls aren’t working as expected with just the Crossbone installed.
Hmm, just kind of reviewing what you are seeing. It’s possible there’s a short on one of the IC legs, in particular something pertaining to the Home signal, if anything. I’m guessing it’s something along those lines since this only happens when you unlock the Home, correct?
Can you take a really clear picture of the top 3 little IC’s that are lined up across the board. I don’t have the schematic in front of me so I don’t remember which one that signal runs to, I just want to make sure there isn’t a cold solder joint. Once I have the files up in front of me I can actually tell you which IC and which pins to inspect. It’s possible the board has a slight defect that’s causing this, and it’s not anything you are doing at all.
@Phreakazoid to be honest lol, I have no clue wtf the lock/unlock button does on the TE2.
But yes, what is happening is that when the switch goes from unlock -> lock, it acts as if I pushed and held down the Home button and asks me if I want to turn the console off, and that does NOT happen when I go back the other way from lock -> unlock. And in general the Home button simply isn’t working.
As for the pics, I can do that when I get home later today around 3:30 - 4pm EST. I’ll do it as soon as I get home so I can get them to you ASAP so I can try and wrap this up or at least know what is going on.
As for the IC where the Home button goes, I’m assuming it is that wider black ribbon cable that plugs into the top of the board? I have looked at the plug for that multiple times and the pins all seem fine on the Crossbone.
Also, sure I can take whatever pics you need. Are you talking about just the port things that are on the top of the board? I’ll use my DSLR camera too so that I can get hi-res pics.
Just also wanted to re-iterate, that I don’t have any of the PS4 pad stuff wired up either, so it’s just the X1 stuff on there, and also that the TE2 PCB is working fine when I re-wire the USB stuff to it and don’t have the Crossbone connected. So it is definitely something going on that is funky only when the Crossbone is connected.
@Phreakazoid so I just snapped some pics. Sorry I’m not that skilled with taking up close, but in some of them you can zoom in a bit and see but it’s not the clearest.
But … I think you might have been onto something and I am HOPING that this is the issue…
Check this pic specifically… (if you go to the URL you can see the larger zoomed in version as well as it’s the second pic in the gallery above)
At the top part where the wire (I think has the Home button), like the 3rd pin from the left looks to actually have one little piece of solder that may be connecting it to the point to the right of it. I know it’s not the clearest pic when zoomed in, but I’m HOPING you tell me that is the pin that represents the HOME/LOCK buttons and it’s just got some funky stuff going on there, and that if i just remove that solder it should fix it.
And if that is the case, what is the best solution to removing it? Just like tap my soldering iron to it and let it suck the metal from between the 2 points? I don’t have any desolder kit or anything, and this isn’t the biggest metal connecting the 2 points, so would just tapping my hot iron to it probably fix it?
So I’m hoping you come and tell me that is the pin you were concerned about and it is the issue lol.
If not though and you want some more pics, just let me know. I had my 50mm prime lens on the camera and it was my first time ever trying Macro mode so sorry if they aren’t the best pics. Only had the camera like 3 months lol.
Another question about the USB connector thing on the inside of the TE2.
Mine was just sitting inside of the little space (i’m talking about the little cone thing that the quick connector connects to, that has the 5 wires going to the PCB coming from it) and it doesn’t fit snug in there at all. There is some like tape that was wrapped around it, probably a hack job to get it to stay put. But now that I’ve messed with it, it’s not staying put.
How did you all get that little piece to stay snug in the spot it’s supposed to go?
I see, it only fits snug when the top part is on it. There isn’t a groove to put it in while you try to get the top piece on, which I assumed there would be.
Debating if I want to make the LED’s on in PS4 mode.
In a way, when the lights are off, it is kind of feedback that it is in PS4 mode. I plugged it into the PS4 without holding the switch, and I saw the LED lights all come on, so if they are off, I’ll know I at least plugged it in right lol.
Just making sure this is normal behavior too - when I hold down the switch (X), I then have to press the Home button for the controller to “turn on” and the PS4 recognizes it. I’m assuming that is normal.
Is there anyway to actually power on the PS4 with the TE2?
Okay now I see them. Yeah not too concerned about that, they ain’t going anywhere. It’s tough though to get the right amount of sheilding off with big ass scissors i was using lol. That is why it’s so inconsistent.
It’s not just a SRK TT thing, its considered sloppy for electronic engineering standards, even at the hobbyist/DIY end of the field.
Every millimeter of exposed wire is a potential for electrical shorts.
a loose ball of solder, a metal filing or loose strand of wire falling across that bare metal can short out your stick, with the potential of ruining the PCBs.
