JMRo my english very bad, i from spain can make better pictures mod buttons GND?
Unfortunately i don’t have any more pictures. Next time I open up the back panel, I can take some.
It fixes the problem?
Yeah, definitely several months in without seeing an issue. I really think static buildup causes problems with these things, but I don’t have enough feedback from other people
I sent JMro a private message the other day. Grounding the plates actually caused issues for me. It gave me the please replug your controller message which I never got anymore since switching over to the fight pad pcb.
I suggest that if you want to ground the plates you use an external ground (maybe a screw?) and not the pcb itself. I stopped grounding my plates and the issue of course never came back. Only reason I grounded it in the first place is because I had the forward on my JLF microswitch go out a couple times and thought maybe static played a part in it. I’ve since then replaced the jlf pcb and haven’t had the problem reoccur.
Again, I don’t know if its just coincidence for you JMro. If it works for you, awesome. Definitely not in my case though, but again we’re grounding to a different pcb (although it shouldn’t matter).
I’m not trying to dismiss your claims though, I do think maybe you’ve caught on to something. I’m just thinking maybe another grounding source would be better since it gave me problems. Anyways I ordered a new TE just recently. I’ll dual mod it as well and hope there are no problems with the triggers. If there is ill be falling back to this method
Yeah, this is definitely an “at your own risk” type mod. It shouldn’t hurt, but it is possible that a large static shock could mess with the PCB.
The idea of grounding the top screws is that it pulls the static out of your hands before it builds up really a really large charge which causes a jump to some component and freaks out the PCB. Of course if you already have a really large buildup it could cause a problem too. Static wrist straps to your wall required when using a TE!
Sorry to hear that gl0ry… missed the PM.
I bought a PS3 SF4 TE stick in Feb this year and after only a month the R2 (round house) button would get a delay and then eventually not work at all. I’m in Australia so sending the stick back to capcom or Madcatz is not really an option as it costs a lot for shipping and they don’t cover for that. After posting here and other forums, and just thinkering around, the best fix is to swap to the L2 shortcut button and just remap in game.
While this fix is fine for me at home, I want to eventually go and play in comps and other byo events so remapping my stick all the time will be a pain in the ass. I’m a massive tech n00b but from what I’ve read would ordering a better made PCB solve the problem? If I’m not mistaken the Cuthulu boards look pretty sturdy and would be perfect for my duel PS3 and PC uses.
If I had the PS3 version and having problems, I would definitely consider a Cthulhu. I’ve used a few, and never had any problem with them. The only thing you’ll lose is turbo and the LS/RS/DP switch.
just got a white TE-S for 360 on the first of this month from the gameshark store. if i were to have any problems with non-responsive buttons, would they just swap it out for me? i usually am a lap player in a room with carpet on the floor. i can see how there may be static issues with that metal plate on the bottom. it sucks to think you may have to play in a room without carpet. would a bottom plexi fix this? i just want my 120.00 investment to not have any issues.
Calling MadCatz support would be your best option if it is new, and you got it from them. They must be aware of the issue by now.
thanks for the reply. i think there’s a 90 day warranty so i’ll just send it back if i notice anything.
So what I’m reading is that this TE I JUST got with its shorted roundhouse can either be grounded somehow (the screws on the bottom plate are vicious… I’m stripping this thing), or call for a new pcb and HOPE that it works fine? What the hell?
There’s an easy way to do it, but it will require breaking that white sticker. Anyways those smaller screws open the whole bottom plate, so you can have access to the feet/nuts.
I’ve also been experiencing this problem recently.
Sucks that such an expensive peripheral can have such a major problem, and Mad Catz don’t seem to give a shit.
there’s guys on the TE-S thread having these same issues. my concern is after the 90 day warranty is up, what can the 360 owners do fix this problem?
I read on the Mad Catz website that all MC products come with a 5 year guarantee in the US, 2 in the UK (plus, we are legally entitled to at least 1 year warranty on all goods sold in the UK).
It’s still a chore to have to mail the stick out and back though. Not to mention the 6 weeks repair time.
This is such bullshit. I can’t believe I spent 100 dollars on stick that has buttons dying constantly… really wish I had seen this thread before I ordered.
Since this thread is 10 pages long, can someone just give me the short version of what I should do if my HK and LKMKHK button randomly stop working? If I restart the system then they work again but honestly that is BS.
My Xbox guide button keeps spamming randomly, even when the Lock switch is turned to LOCKED mode, The only way to activate my xbox guide button is to press turbo + guidebutton. Any suggestions?
What would reading a thread about failing PCBs have done for you? Do you know how many sticks are out there that have zero failures? 2 out of my 3 sticks are flawless.
My new TE “S” has some issues with RH and sometimes MK. I just did the grounding mod and I guess we’ll see how this works for a bit. If it fails then I plan on calling Madcatz and getting them to send me a replacement PCB. They already sent me one thats sitting next to my desk 
You can swap the HK and 3K wiring around and then edit your controls in-game. That helps, apparently. For a more permanent fix you could either replace the PCB or ground the metal plates inside the stick.