dealing with the syncs isn’t even an issue with this thing, I was just curious to see what a composite sync signal looked like.
As for the intensity adjustment, I think I’ll stick to the idea of using headers. Two of the 2x3 headers on the board to plug a board onto if needed, while everyone else who doesn’t need it can just leave jumpers on the headers instead.
Damn, gender changers are spendy.
These are cheap but they flip everything I had to have the slg upside down
And the cheapest of those Digikey carries is over $5. Which doesn’t sound cheap for how small they are.
$1 on ebay shipped quality seems sufficient
http://www.ebay.com/itm/15-Pin-HD-SVGA-VGA-Male-Male-Gender-Changer-Adapter-/270750103704?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f09f6b898#ht_1242wt_1240
Female-female version appears to be $2.50, which is an improvement.
wacha you talkin about willis
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Female-Female-15-pin-VGA-SVGA-Connecter-Adapter-/360290724052?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e30028d4#ht_730wt_1240
Just simple off the shelf gender changers is all you need? I’ve got all kinds laying around. Looks like I’m set.
Just a quick question: Why on earth would anyone need this for 360? Isn’t it at it’s best with HDMI?
for the xbox live dlc classics shooters such as radiant silvergun, sfIII,Sega Saturn classics there are many pixel based games on xbox live. You have to remember these games were designed for a much lower resolution with pixels “need” is not a good word its preference. some people really like how games look on crt’s you get the retro feel its nostalgic for people VGA resolution is as good as hdmi some get better results with VGA it depends on your TV/monitor
I see…
Still can’t wait until a solution to all my retro systems pop up.
all that sounds good.
For info, I’m going to use you SLG primarily on my xbox 360.
yeah any vga/D-sub gender changer will work. the The issue is they were designed to attach to vga cables and change the gender which is how there used 99% of the time.They were not designed to connect two pcb’s together,its not huge and it doesn’t effect the signal it just causes one of the pcb’s to be upside down. The only solution I’ve seen to have the pcb’s parallel is what arcade forge did with 2 surface mount d-subs and and a tiny pcb to connect them which is okay it just makes the already bulky setup more so
With the plan of one male for IN and one female for OUT, the board wont require flipping on that RGB->VGA or DC VGA box. The gender changer would only be needed on cable setups like the Xbox360 VGA cable, in which case the flip is no big deal at all. 
Main board and a simple intensity shield with three pots are laid out. I hope to send off an order for more protos at the end of this week. If that tests well, then the first kits will go up for sale; we should know in a hair under 3 weeks.
We’re still looking at about $12 for the main board, and likely $9ish for the shield. The shield is totally optional, the base $12 works awesome by itself. The shield would only be needed if you wanted the ability to lessen the scanline intensity (make scanlines less dark).
Rosser, if you’d like measurements so your top and or bottom plexis match up perfectly, for yourself or to sell, let me know and I’ll get them to you. Im assuming they’re laser cut.
Hey Toodles,
are you going to be sticking to the normal removable pic or do you think the finished product will be a smd? I’m not sure which is more cost effective. just wondering cause if you design a new pcb I can just swap the chips out that is unless you go with something other than the TI chips
Ps. thanks for helping with the pad hack the other night it all worked out and I got it functional your a life saver
So it’s a VGA box for systems that aren’t Dreamcast? I’m sorry, I’m just trying to figure this out EXACTLY so I can make buying plans.
no nothing like that it just adds to the scan lines to the picture whatever you feed it it adds lines to
If you look at the picture a couple of posts up its the piece at the end the other thing is a scaler the scaler is what takes the signal and it doubles the lines you input 240 (classic system) and it adds 240 to make it the 480 displayed that today tv’s need
The issue is that when you take a 240 line image and double it you are really just stretching the image so the slg makes it clearer/ more detailed.
Look at the images I posted on the first post that is the results from the test model still more extra adjustments to come
The chips will still be DIP like the one you got, but I dont think there will be IC sockets, just solder the chips to the board directly. If there is enough interest to sell out the kits quickly, I’ll get some preassembled with surface mount chips instead. Im still planning on using TI chips, but I changed the family to the 74HC ones instead of LS to make sure they work will with lower voltages.
A VGA signal comes in one side, the T-SLG makes every other line darker, and spits out the resulting VGA signal. The blackening of every other line makes it look like it was actually displaying on an old CRT, like old arcade monitors or very old TVs.
You have GGPO installed, right? Run the ‘ggpofba.exe’ , load up a ROM, and play for a bit. That’s what the video would normally look like from a DC VGA box. Now, go to the video settings and enable scanlines. Play for a bit. What it looks like then is what this is trying to do.
It doesn’t convert video, it doesn’t change anything, the only thing it does is darken every other horizontal line. This helps make older, lower resolution games look better because the blockiness of the pixels isnt as jarring, and helps with the nostalgia on playing the games how they were originally played ‘back in the day’.
No.
Yes.
-ud
Yes and yes damned
I can see everything much clearer all the details are more refined at least to my eyes not blob-ity blob how it looks with just the scaler alone it may be all a trick but this is a device for visuals