T-SLG (Toodles Scanline Generator) Authentic retro look from your modern flatscreen

Well actually I have this one… accessory that all the oldies(minus DC,PS2) plug into (I don’t have a ton of inputs on my TV) and I figure I’d just use it on the front of that and call it a day.

what is it composite red white yellow? the devices that have vga cables are wii, ps2/ps3, xbox/xbox 360 everything else needs to go through a scaler to get vga to input into the scanline generator and the out of the slg will always be vga (unless toodles does something crazy)

I don’t have enough VGA for all of that.

My current set-up is:

composite switcher thing: all the oldies

Component: plan on getting a switcher to use PS2 and Wii on

VGA: Dreamcast

purchase or build your own sync strike or wait to see if toodles comes with something
get scart cables for the old systems yellow rca is total trash anyway scart is 100 times better
get a scart selector
game system>scart cable>sync strike>scaler>slg>TV

FYI, PS2 requires running a special setup to get VGA out, not just a cable (i.e. Linux or Xploder) & the original XBOX does not output VGA natively.
-ud

Thanks for the clarification I just know they sell them I have never used them/tested them for ps2 and xbox original

So for all my oldies, I should have SCART? Is that on most TVs? and I’d have to buy new cables and a new switcher?

Did some Google work and I’m gonna wait to see what develops here.

rgb scart cables give the picture quality for older systems they separate red green and blue
No unless you have a European tv
you dont have to purchase a switcher you just have to plug in the cable when you want to use that system

Yeah… going behind there and moving stuff around sounds like a major pain in the ass to do every single time.

Again, I’ll just wait on it.

Hey toodles you get your board for some snooping action yet?

Board’s assembled and ready for some snooping action, but just havent gotten around to it yet.

Thought I’d revisit this today, looks like some good progress has been made, looking forward to seeing more pictures and examples :slight_smile:

Yeah maybe we could get a little more progress if Toodles would get off his lazy ass and start doing some snooping…jk :coffee:

I’m almost as excited for this as I am when you update the MC cthulu!

Fixed it for ya.:wink:

ya ya ya, I guess I got off my ass and did what I needed this weekend.
Whoever decided to say that pin 9 was a source for 5v DC can eat a bowl of dicks. I havent seen any indication of that yet, and better yet, I noticed that most of my VGA cords dont have that pin on it anyways.
But, I do have a reliable source of power, and a better idea of what all takes place. It’s pretty simple really; Im wondering if I can see a composite sync if I can pull off my own splitting without an LM1881.
But at any rate, I jotted down notes for a DC VGA box, a cheapie Xbox360 VGA cord, and the ebay upscaler. I feel confident that for everything important, a separate power supply will not be needed; it can safely pull power from the VGA connection itself. I will be getting rid of the spot for power screw terminals and the power select jumpers, since they are silly and not needed at all.

Im also confident I can double the scanline widths, without it costing anyone anything. I’ll likely have to change to two slide switches, one to select ‘thin vs thick’ and another three way for the ‘even off odd’ selection. The downside is that there wont be a fine tuning for where the scanline is with the thick one. The ‘odd’ selection with wide scanlines would make row 1 and 2 black, and 3 and 4 normal, and the even selection would make rows 3 and 4 black and 1 and 2 normal. There wouldn’t be any option for make 2 and 3 black and 1 and 4 normal or visa versa. But, it would make scanlines usable at 800x600 or greater resolutions.

The part Im chewing on now is the scanline intensity adjustment. Totally doable, but the question is, how to control it? I could do three separate potentiometers but any adjustment to how dark the scanlines are would need to be done to all three pots. I could try to manage a ‘three pots one knob’ solution like the SLG3K, but that would certainly kick up the cost, that has to be spendy. Im gonna do some thinking to see what if any cheap options may be available for the scanline intensity adjustment.

Im also thinking that I should switch the board to use one female and one male VGA jack, instead of the two male jacks used now. The VGA box and RGB->VGA board both use female jacks, and all VGA cables are M-M. Using a male and female would mean it would plug straight into the VGA source, and use a normal VGA cable from there to the monitor. It would mean that a gender changer or additional VGA cable would not be needed for the female jack options (DC VGA box, RGB->VGA board), but would be needed for the VGA cable options like the Xbox360 VGA cable. Its an 80/20 problem, and I believe that the Dreamcast and arcade users would far outweight the VGA cable Xbox360 users. If you disagree with that, please voice your opinion.

Alright, what else am I missing before I finalize this badboy?

So what would be needed for 360 users to use your SLG? You’re probably going to see a bit of business from folks looking to play Third Strike Online with it, since the built in soft scanlines are janky. I know I’m going to want to play some 360 shmup goodness with mine.

Either way, one group would need the T-SLG+VGA cable, and the other group would need gender changer + T-SLG + VGA cable.
Since the current plan is for the 360 players to require the gender changer, it’d need to be a female on both ends gender changer. Xbox360 cable plugs into geneder changer, gender changer plugs into T-SLG, T-SLG plugs into VGA cable, VGA cable plugs into monitor.

yeah I like the idea of no ac adapter it gets too cumbersome having one for scaler and one for the slg.
I’m not sure if this will make a difference but I think in euro and ntsc comp sync varies in voltage on older systems
also do you think its possible to have a universal board that the buyer could decide if they want to go for the pricey pods or prefer just the basic’s

also I’m not sure how a clean sync and a comp sync can change things up

So long as you’re going to offer everything somebody needs to hook it up to their systems of choice, it’s all gravy. :slight_smile: