Sub 1 frame HDTV/Monitor Input Lag Database

Viewsonic VX2265wm

See for yourself:

http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/7513/img0621x.jpg

Another Test

Not to detract, because it’s awesome to have this list, but it would be nice if there was a list of known-bad displays too (clearly separated, of course). In case someone was thinking that if the old model (or European version) was good, the new model must be good too. (Or just thinking about taking a chance.)

2/3 ≐ 0.666666666667 (because Unicode is fun)

Thank you for some excellent work. This is something lots of people wanted, but were too lazy to do for themselves. If you do add more monitors could you link to or cite the source please?

This is what I wanted to do too, but am too lazy to google it myself.:wink:

Keep in mind the following things:

  1. Tests using clone mode on a PC or laptop are invalid, they may not refresh each display at the exact same time, and that can give innacurate results. Best to use a VGA splitter. Also using that, it makes older CRTs work (dunno why but the CRT gets fooled into thinking it’s in 1280x1024 mode with cut off pixels)

  2. You need a large sample size. The numbers shown aren’t final, those are just averages of however many pics they’ve taken. A sample size of at least 30 or more pictures is better. When taking pics you don’t get like say a 7.8ms difference on the clock, its either 0 frames, 1 frame (~16ms) or 2 frames (~32ms). Those are just averaged out.

  3. Camera shutter speed. A slow camera shutter speed makes the test results harder to read, as well as allow the display to make a transition if it hasn’t yet. Use the quickest shutter speed possible on your camera. I think ghosting caused by the panel’s response time may impact numbers shown as well.

What version of the lg ld450 is that - there are maybe 4 different panels you might be getting when purchasing the ld450 or lk450

when i bought my big TV (61 inch Samsung DLP) it was open box, so i didn’t really know the specs, but it was 1000 bucks from costco including the stand. I later looked up the specs and it said 16 Microsecond lag time. Is that even possible?

I’ve never seen a TV that advertised its actual latency, are you sure you dont mean response time or one of those other random statistics they put on the box.

How do you plan on doing that if you want to test the digital/hdmi input of the lcd/plasma, vs a crt

Hello everyone in this thread and thank you for being awesome.

I second that!

ya, it was probably the response time…

Hi, from reading the LG review it seems to be the S-IPS panel due to the low input lag yet the worse black levels.

The Pooch’s FAQ is worth checking out for people thinking of buying the LG.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=19723268#post19723268

The VA panels are known to have worse pixel response, viewing angles, ghosting and smearing so it is best to avoid them.

Cheers to you for putting this together. I think the most significant detail that’s missing is the input type used. VGA, HDMI, and component signals can all cause displays to lag different amounts, so it would be helpful if that were part of the data whenever possible. (Sorry, but it’s true!) Regardless, this thread is baller.

So, I just had a quick question regarding the EVO monitor and maybe someone can shed some light on my failure. So I’m looking at both of these monitors

ASUS MS246H 6.9 MS

ASUS VH236H 8.3 MS (Game mode)


Common sense points to the MS2 being the superior model but the question comes to mind with game mode. What exactly is it and what is it supposed to do. In this situation, would that make the EVO monitor superior to the MS2?

Some monitors have a “game mode” that sacrifices extensive video processing to reduce input lag.

I have the MS246H and changing the mode only changes the color settings and not how it processes the video, but it’s close to lag-free already. As far I know, it is the same case with the EVO monitor.

Also, the Asus MS2 is a discontinued model so good luck finding a reputable site that still sells it for less than $200. The ring that it uses as a stand is not that great and really limits the monitor’s vertical mounting angle, and there are no holes in the back for you to install your own mount/stand.

This thread should be stickied :wonder:

-DJ-

Great thread, I’m about to be in the market for a new TV and this’ll give me a starting point instead of just asking around in other threads. I do second the point of it being super handy to know if these were based only on certain input types though, like if the numbers are only based on VGA or if they also see the same results via HDMI on those without ‘game modes’.

I’m emailing the sites to confirm what input they used for the tests will update the the thread once I get reply from them. :slight_smile:

they have splitters that output in dvi/vga, which may or may not work.
The point is, however, that clone mode doesn’t produce accurate results.