I have noticed the same hair lines cracks on my Fightstick pro as well. Would this be an acceptable reason to ask for an exchange from MadCatz? I would rather have one without these cracks if possible.
Ha
Have you opened up the bottom to see it from the inside, it may be just a scratch from when they molded the plastic
I would rather not open it up, as that would void the warranty. It is only a month old and hasnāt been dropped or mistreated. Itās really difficult to tell if they are scratches or cracks, one is near the Xbox button on the turbo panel (or whatever itās called) which looks like more of a crack than scratch.
Have others opened up their sticks and found these imperfections only exist on the outside of the case?
Im trying to find the template for this stickā¦can anyone link me?
MarkMan gave you the direct link but Iād advice before asking a question on templates that you would go to the āNEW Offical Arcade Stick Artā Threadās first page for all the quick links.
Hi, I just bought the "Street Fighter IV FightStick Tournament Edition Round 2" and has scratches on the sides and red bezel.
I bought it on amazon as new, and they sent me another model to replace itā¦But the second model also has scratches.
It is usual Street Fighter IV FightStick Tournament Edition Round 2 has scratches?
Thanks!
If you want to install the Kitty, lotās of dremeling to do. Otherwise order the new Cerberus board phreak just released. $40 a pop vs $50 a pop. hmmmm.
Hey guys, any tips on LED modding the PS3 SFXT Fightstick Pro?
Those Arc Eye 3s are beautiful, but unfortunately, Iām not confident in myself that I can solder the Remora. Any alternatives?
Itās not unusual to have a few scratches on a Round 1 or Round 2 joystick.
The plastic is very easy to scratch and many ship from the factory with at least a few scratches on the side panels.
The bezel itself CAN get scratched IF you remove the faceplate and arenāt very careful. Easiest to avoid scratching there is put the joystick on its back side panel after removing the top screws when you do maintenance or are removing worn out parts/swapping out parts.
Less usual to get a joystick base with scratches on the bezel but not impossible. The plastic used in Mad Catz joysticks seems to scratch easier than Horiāsā¦ Not to say I donāt have Horiās with scratches from regular use, either. It usually happens from removing the faceplate and NOT knowing better on how to handle thatā¦
I got the Fightstick pro for Ps3 and Iām trying to remove the metal plate All but 2 are unable to come out. It seems that the screws were forcibly screwed in and none of my screwdrivers are working. Anyone knnow any fixes?e-e
Does anyone know for a fact that these sticks (the street fighter x tekken cross/line sticks) for PS3 work on PCs with AMD/NVIDIA chipsets? I know round 1 and round 2 sticks dont work due to the usb issue, but has this been fixed by madcatz in these sticks?
Youāve asked in just about every place imaginable, and the short answer is, It probably doesnāt.
If youāve used a R1 or R2 (or any PS3 madcatz stick) on your computer and it didnāt work, then most likely the Proās wont work either. The Issue is not a fixable issue in terms of updating firmware, and madcatz is not about to change how they design their PS3 PCBs. There are work arounds that involve getting a PCI USB card thats compliant, which might be your best solution. That, or just get a Hori stick. OR a 360 stick and dual mod it to work on PS3.
Thanks. On a side note, I also have the PS3 Brawlstick and it works fine on my AMD PC without any drivers required. Since this was released after the R1 and R2 sticks, would that make any difference?
I want to replace the start and select buttons for my fightstick pro, but it seems that it is a 20mm button and i can only find 24 and 30 sanwa buttons. Am i wrong in my measurement or is there a place to find the 20mm buttons that i cant find?
Theyāre 24mm.
Iāve done quite a bit of research ā¦ (google lol) but does anyone know of a write-up or video showcasing a tutorial on how to change artwork on these sticks?.. Step by step lol
You donāt need a tutorial ā itās easy to change the artwork.
One difference is that you donāt have the easy-to-remove top screws that the R1/R2 and FightStick VS have. You have to peel the artwork off like the Mad Catz SE/Brawl Stick/Tatsunoko Vs Capcom Fight Sticks. You will probably ruin the original art doing this. The artwork on these sticks has to be secured better than the earlier joysticks I mentioned since they donāt have the top mounting screws like the R1/R2/VS lines.
The older R1/R2/VS joysticks had foam sticker similar to whatās used for poster board to secure the face art. It was fairly easy to remove them without ruining the original Mad Catz artwork. (Thatās how I was able to sell 3 pieces of original face art from my R1/R2 joysticks.)
Art Hongās website has the template you need to plan replacement art with. Download his PSD and compose/create new face art. After printing the new artwork (hint: Kinkoās/FedEx), you can either buy a plexi to protect the artwork (Art has screws and washers to secure his FightStick Pro plexis) or get the artwork laminated if you donāt plan to buy a plexi. If you laminate, youāll have to buy a spray (3M) ā probably from an art store ā to secure the artwork on top of the metal faceplate. Of course, mount the artwork AFTER you trim it and cut the holes in it!
You can use the metal faceplate as a guide to cut the final artwork. I used āmessed upā plexis I bought from Art and X-acto knife (changing the blade often after the tip broke off). I learned to cut on a self-healing matte. I just havenāt found anything else that works better as a cutting surface for faceplate art.
FYI, lamination IS much cheaper than buying a plexi but itās impossible to avoid bubbles with laminate and it generally doesnāt look as good as a plexi but has the advantage of cheapness, not adding to thickness of the faceplate, and providing adequate artwork protection without having to mod buttons (ānib shavingā) to prevent cracking which is an issue with plexis. You inevitably get bubbles around the places where you cut no matter what you do. Also, itās about 8-10 times harder to cut through laminated art since it thickens the areas you have to cut. Plastic laminate and paper are much thicker to cut through than laserjet paper alone. IF youāre going to do lamination, I would not recommend using cardstock! Thatāll at the very least double, maybe triple, your work in getting artwork cut. Laserjet paper also has the advantage of displaying color brighter; cardstock absorbs more printer ink and makes images darker. Cardstock adds nothing to the final art, IMHO, and just makes the cutting work that much harder whether you go the plexi or laminate route.
(Another issue with cardstock is the fact that bends in cardstock are WORSE than the thinner laserjet paper. Bends are easier to disguise in thinner paper. Thicker paperstock has fibers which can develop bends that are impossible to completely flatten out and stick out like sore thumbs.)
Just bought my stick a week ago and the start, back, and Xbox home buttons stopped working. Has anyone else had this issue? Is it a bad setting or do I have to return it?
Thanks
On the turbo panel are two switches, make sure they are set to āDPā and āunlockā. If the problem persists then there is no way of opening your stick up without voiding the warranty. Send it back for a replacement.