pre-ordered the stick last week before they had an image of it and the next day they added the image of the red stick and i then noticed the model number matched the red stick
just checked now and they have changed the image to the black stick for the PS3 only and model number is still red stick
i guess i can assume they are not sure what they have but i’ll be getting the black stick now
Bit the bullet and bought one of the Red sticks(0985/1000) and I absolutely love it! Much more comfortable than my TE R2 (which I will probably get rid of now as it was never the stick I wanted in the first place).
Hope you didn’t pay too much for the red stick…
The markup on many of these joysticks is ridiculous!
(To be fair, it’s worse with import sticks than domestic…)
(And I had hoped to add another official HRAP SE model to my collection… <SIGH>)
It’s not hard to make an art template with a scanned faceplate. The results are fairly accurate.
[I had to recreate some art recently… I drilled through through the sticker on the faceplate while trying to fix a bad screw thread on the case’s mounting plate. Just about every Hori joystick I’ve ever owned has a bad thread area on the stick mount!
(I was able to fix the drill area on the art by using the stamp cloner in Photoshop. In the reconstructed artwork, you can’t even tell that there was ever an accidental drill hole! (Not using the art now but if I ever sell that stick I may do a print of the reconstructed art before I put it up for sale… I’ve left the original sticker on but there’s new art covering the faceplate {plus the drill hole} so there’s no issue = out of my sight, out of my mind!)]
The faceplate won’t lie completely flat on the scanner and be scanned completely in one shot unless the scanner is huge. On a normal scanner, it will take two scans to get all the faceplate area unless you’re okay with a little cut-off. Very easy to line up the button holes on composited images.
What’s much harder is deciding whether to fiddle with original art (if you leave it on the faceplate) and tweak the color OR leave the scan as-is. (In my case, leaving it as-is and tweaking the Saturation +35 AFTER after fixing/compositing the scans worked out better… Color on the end result was closer to the original scanned-in image.)
Even with the slight angle difference on the scanned faceplate, it made very little difference to the size. The “lifted area” of the faceplate was maybe 1/8" away from the scanner at most… Since I scanned both ends flat on the scanner, I eliminated the slight bump by pasting the final images together.
My scan of the faceplate – which was HRAP 1 style layout – lined up perfectly with Art Hong’s T5/HRAP 1 template.
im gonna get a scan done at a local kinkos when i decide to take it apart, they said i can get the image scanned right onto a flash drive… i will post template up when i get the chance to do this
£160 from the UK Gameshark store, only £10 more than a TE and £20 more than their advertised price for the black Pro sticks. They are very expensive and we seem to get duff deal compared to the States, but then that’s always been the case.
The new batch of Round 2 TE’s (with the TE-S motherboards) are available for £99 from many places in the UK, including Zavvi and The Hut.
So that makes the Pro £60 more expensive as you can’t currently get them from anywhere else, so MadCatz (Gameshark) have a stranglehold on their selling price.
I have only just noticed the TE’s on Zavvi, a good deal for someone that doesn’t already have a TE. Why couldn’t they have been doing it this time last year though when I got mine…
Right now i can buy the zavvi offer, Street Fighter 4 TE stick,
or buy a brand new STREET FIGHTER X TEKKEN ARCADE FIGHTSTICK PRO…
Both sticks fit my needs, so i must decide based on the PCB issues from the old TE round 2 stick (Ps3), and the size of both sticks.
I’ve been searching for a while, but i didn’t find the size of the new sfxtekken fightstick pro.
¿is it bigger than the old TE round 2? (The bigger, the better :D)
Edit: delete some stuff (sorry, some garbage from work got copy-pasted in my post, and i didn’t notice).
If the stick you are looking for on Zavvi is the Round 2, then I believe these now come with the TE-S pcb’s. Not sure if this will fix the issue you are worried about… but the SFxT stick uses the same pcb IIRC.
Certainly with the new factory run of the Round 2. I’ve modded sticks ordered from both Zavvi and The Hut over the last 3 or so months and all have had a TE-S pcb. It’s frustrating as I wanted to use some Kitty boards but did not have the correct harness, so used a batch of ChImp SMD’s instead.
You can check with MarkMan if you like - he should be able to verify. It implies that the old TE ver.B pcb’s are no longer being produced, which is what I used to find in the Round 2 Fightsticks.
Make up your own mind on what you like style-wise and which you think would be more comfortable for your hands.
They use the same component parts so quality is not the issue. It’s ergonomics and which art you like better (unless you intend on customizing the art like I usually do).
I’m kind of sick of the old-style Viewlix TE (I still like the design but WOULDN’T buy another one unless I could trade one of my less-desired sticks for an Asian TE model) and never cared for the TE-S. If I were to buy a new Mad Catz stick (after I have funds), I’d get either the Pro or a V.S. an eye towards eventually getting another V.S. within the next year.
Right now, my priorities are paying for pre-ordered videos and getting the Hori SC V stick shortly afterwards…