Cool, that’s the same brand as my HDMI > component one, I’ll snag that. Thanks!
Also are there any suggestions for an affordable laptop to get for the trip? I gave up on getting one that could work with the BMI Shuttle since those are all $1k+ and am just looking for something that can do a solid 480i stream.
Go for it. Seagate is no worse than say, Western Digital or Hitachi. HDD reliability is pretty much ass across the board. Might as well spend 80 instead of 100-120 that the rest of them are going for. :tup:
I’m hosting a tournament in a few weeks and am borrowing out our University’s cameras, this is embarrassing to ask because I was a “Film and Video major” xD (1) Anyway apart from obviously just putting it on a tripod is there a way (with cords inputs etc) to record the PC monitors and projectors that are outputting the picture from Xbox 360’s/PS3’s? (2) People have expressed interest in commentating, how would I got about doing this? I think the commentators would have to be far away from the gameplay and a friend said I’d need a ‘mixer’ or something (been doing a bit of research and they pick up different levels of audio I believe? THANKS A TONNNNNE
Goodness. You really need to read though this thread, and then ask the questions you still have by the end of it. You don’t seem to know where to start at all, such as not knowing how to record the video signal from a PS3/360 (capture card).
You need to ask yourself whether or not you want to capture in HD or SD. Capturing in HD is exponentially more expensive.
These are the basic things you need.
Capturing device.
Computer that can encode and capture the footage in realtime. This generally means a beefy processor and a fast enough HDD for what you’re capturing in.
Cabling/Splitters. Cords from the console to a (powered) signal splitter. Cords from the splitter to your capture device/game display.
A way to bypass HDCP-encoding when capturing with HDMI off of PS3s and 360-slims. Stuff like the HDFury and the HDMI-to-Component workaround.
Audio mixing equipment… You know… for audio.
Game console of choice.
Edit: I’ve left out some stuff. Getting this stuff together in a few weeks may be tough. A lot of this stuff can only be acquired through online vendors. Your best bet is to focus on an SD setup, as it’s easier to manage, and there will be far less troubleshooting involved.
Double Edit: Just so you know, this will run you hundreds and hundreds of dollars out of pocket if you don’t have the necessary equipment. I’m getting an HD setup going, and I’ve already spent over $600 on hardware (Mostly from a Blackmagic, two new 2TB HDDs and cables), despite already having a blisteringly capable computer for encoding.
The great thing about University campuses is that you can abuse the hell out of their connection to upload in ludicrously delicious bitrates (It’s like encoding porn!), and they usually have their free A/V rental places stocked full of pro-quality audio equipment. Also, your A/V department should have cameras for the commentator-cam and player-cam, which takes a huge chunk out of getting a fully tricked out stream going.
Triple Edit: If you REALLY want to budget the hell out of this, you could just set up a nice camcorder in front of an HD display, instead of doing direct capture from the console’s video-out, and download Xsplit. However, it will likely look like poop. :\
Hey Streaming Thread! I am currently looking into streaming on Twitch. I want to use a AverMedia Live Gamer HD. I know that I can run a HDMI cable from the console of choice and hook it up to an EVO monitor but how would I add voice commentary?
So I have a question? USB 2.0 signals start to degrade after 15 ft. Say I wanted to set up a shot thats… lets say more than 15 ft. away. Do firewire signals start to degrade after 15 ft? The reason is I’m trying to figure out the best methods to use HD Camcorders into my crowd and auxiliary shots. Do I have to re-amplify the signal in 15 ft intervals?
What is the best method? I have looked into IP Cameras but I find that in the long run it would be unreliable and the HD models are slim pickings.
Most professional camcorders still use firewire and yes they are directshow. Most of the time I find myself sitting here wishing that my camera had a video-in just so that I could use my firewire from it as output to my PC for game footage.
I got some of my crazy ass plan (it’s on the previous page and I don’t know if I can re-post it) in recently.
What I have basically so far is a PS3 and 360 put into a HDMI switch which is then split (one for the TV and one for the HDMI to component converter) the component converter connects to a component switch and the output on that gets split (one in the TV, one in the Black Magic Intensity Pro).
This actually works really well and my only real problem is that the picture coming in slightly chops off the left side, I checked the output on my TV (again, the component switch is plugged into both via a powered splitter) and it displays that way there too, why is that? It’s confusing as all hell.
All splitters, switches and converters are Monoprice with the exception of the component splitter which is RadioShack (someone told me Jaxel was endorsing that particular model and vouched for it himself).
Awesome I will check out Jaxel’s guide as well as try out the SD option. People in our community actually already have the Hauppauge and record matches with it etc, but there is too much politics in our community so I cannot borrow them T_T Thank you very much!!!
older-generation consoles were all SD… Although the last generation could output 480p progressive video, they were still NOT true HD!
MOST arcade hardware up until at least the last 10-14 years was also SD.
A lot of users are still capturing and broadcasting in SD. Unless there’s a good reason to, there’s very little point most of the time in putting up HD video.
HD saps more bandwidth, takes longer to load regardless of computer, and it won’t show that much more detail in most of the venues that tournaments
take place in!
Depending on the capture device, it may or may not break the encryption on the video signal coming out of your console. That goes for both HD and SD. On older-gen Dreamcast, I was able to capture video and audio with VHS-Recorder but was always left with a buzz/tininess in the audio. Your mileage will vary!
Incorrect. There were a few PS2 games that supported native 1080i output, which is classified as an HD standard. Gran Turisimo 4 is the first such game that comes to mind. I think a few games also supported 720p natively. I think the xbox may also have had similar games, but I never owned one, so I cannot confirm.
Of course, you can also force high-res output with a mod like GS mode selector, but that’s something that can be saved for another day, as it just upscales the signal.
Free MCBoot is a softmod that will work on most PS2 systems, so doing some research on that would probably make for a good start. Just remember, this won’t make any games look better if they cannot natively run at a higher resolution, it will just upscale the output.
I just can’t seem to find a good guide to hacking a PS2. There’s so many different ones and so many different PS2 models, I’m scared to do the wrong thing.
The FMCB softmod is literally plug and play, worst that happens is your softmod doesn’t work, so unplug the memory card and you’re back to being totally unmodded.