Actually, component video standards can carry 1080p video, however the PS3 will not allow one to output in that standard. Also, be advised that many PS3 games do not actually run above 720p anyway. Ultimate Marvel vs. Capcom 3, BlazBlue and SSFIVAE only support 720p. An xbox may upscale these games to 1080p, whereas a PS3 will simply display them at their native resolutions.
Also, the HDCP standard can be stripped or the signal can be intercepted after the removal process(I’ve seen a TV mod to output HDCP-free video). This card however, this card is HDCP compliant, therefore none of these methods are necessary.
So I’m not worried about streaming - only recording - but I just picked up the AverMedia Game Capture HD and I’m still a little baffled by the choice to only support Component input on it. I’m on the market for a new TV anyway but what would be the more “lagless” solution:
Is component typically bad for lag anyway? I used to play SF4 on a DLP TV through component connection and I thought it was perfectly fine, although sometimes I noticed a timing difference when playing on other setups but I think that was more of an Xbox vs PS3 issue. Other people who played on my setup never seemed to complain either. Regardless, I don’t have that setup anymore and even if I did a 52" DLP is not a good option for portability.
I bought the AverMedia device specifically for its simplicity so I could carry fewer devices around so I’d prefer if just using component input was a viable solution. As for TV’s/monitors I’d prefer something no larger than 32" (smaller is better really). I was deferred here from the lagless Monitor/TV database thread.
I’ve tested the HD72A from Timeleak.
So he works great for 720P capture and 1080i but he doesn’t display 1080P@50/60Hz.
I know he can display 1080P/24, 25 & 30Hz but i haven’t a Blu ray disc to test.
Tested a 1080P @ 30fps from my PC’s graphic card direct in the HD72A and it works*
Component input support is way, way easier than HDMI input. They can’t (due to legal concerns) support HDMI w/ HDCP, because… well, HDCP is designed to prevent recording devices from working in the first place. And while certain devices (like the XBox 360) will support non-protected HDMI signals (so they can be captured directly), that’s becoming the minority (and also only works on certain content – the 360 will lock down any streaming video content like Netflix for obvious reasons). So no HDMI support is just a business reality.
As for your situation, as other people have mentioned in this thread, most people actually do use component capture devices. Instead of starting with a component signal (which is, you’re right, hard to find good low-latency monitors for), they use a powered HDMI splitterso that there’s a zero-latency HDMI path from console to splitter to screen (most screens are tested on HDMI, because that’s what people like to use), then the second HDMI out of the splitter goes to an HDMI to component adapter (I think someone said they had good luck with this one, even on HDCP’d sources; I (and a lot of other people) use the WAY more expensive HDFury2 for this job, but it sounds like more and more HDCP-“compliant” adapters are coming out these days, which is nice). From that adapter, you go straight into your capture device and everybody’s happy – you get to use HDMI to your monitor, and component to your capture box. Hope this helps!
Seriously contemplating writing up a noobie’s guide to streaming and recording post, that takes it from the very top – covering what signals are what, the options you have for recording given source/destination formats and budget for capture gear, etc. Rather than equipment recommendations, it’d be more of a primer on understanding the pro’s and con’s of different situations, and learning to adapt what you have to work. Then when someone says “I’ve been thinking of getting an HD-PVR, can I use it with my HDMI monitor?”, they can just be linked to my post that lays it all out. This thread is incredible, but for beginners who want the idiot’s guide-level info to get them running, but don’t understand the very basics… well, this info is too in-depth for them. Even the 8WayRun guide is a little on the “making it professional” side of things.
Am I wrong in thinking this type of post would be a valuable addition? I figure it could be a good place to point noobie Q&A, to keep the discussion in here more about actual development and sharing experiences/advice, and less about repeating info experienced people all already know.
Well another point is that in Jaxel’s 8WayRun and this post doesnt talk about how to setup the AudioMixer, either Yamaha or Berhinger. At least for me, they just keep telling “plugging to the Audio Mixer” but they dont describe or add an image to ilustrate how to connect everything (This may sound n00b, but in my opinion, i am a complete n00b with Mixers).
Mixers are somewhat straight forward once you get your hands on one, but they allhave their differences.
Here’s the basics:
You have your various line in connections, RCA, 1/4", XLR. You match up the hardware with the corresponding input. Make note of which channel its connected to.
There is a channel for each input, this channel is where you control the volume of your device, it’ll match up with what input you’re using.
Line out, for most mixers it’ll have an RCA stereo line out, from there you connect a RCA to 1/8" cable(or adapter) to the line in on your computer.
This would fall under the complete idiot’s guide stuff. I think it’d be a valuable complement to what we already have, and it’d be nice to have it all in one place (instead of, say, on page 11 of the guide/research thread).
Heres a question for you all. What do you know about capturing video from (custom) cabinets?
What video formats do they use? Can the RGB signal be directly lead into a component capture card?
This is mainly for CP2/3 boards, and Taito x2/x3 boards. I sort of understand taito since its using standard PC hardware, it would simply be a case of splitting the VGA signal.
I would say that processor is definitely gonna be underpowered to handle 720p60fps. You need to shoot for a lower framerate or lower resolution or more powerful computer. In the $600-$700 range you’ll be hard pressed to find any laptop that will give you a smooth 720p stream with a BMI Shuttle.
Usually stream 720p60? Is there any particular reason why you absolutely cannot carry your current setup around?
I realize lugging around a desktop is a pain, but if you want to save money and really don’t want to carry it as is all you need to do is invest in a case with handles like the Antec Lanboy Air
